supersilverdc2

hey all...

I have bought new plugs and have had this issue for quite some time. I gapped to .030.

I bought a new IACV
I swapped the TB

Checked voltage at TPS, it was at .7... i adjusted to .5

the idle improved, but when the car gets hot it misfires...

it did misfire a few times at high RPM. Not sure if it was due to the TPS being out of spec (can the tuner adjust this during the tune session?)

here is the kicker....

when i turn on the heater, its starts to misfire and rpms dip,
when i turn on any additional accessory power, lights, stereo... it reacts with misfiring and my wideband O2 AEM goes off the charts...... (idle is at 12.5, WOT goes 10.00) i know this is a little on the rich side....

I am leaning towards possibly bad alternator?(14.4v at idle) but the batt is getting proper voltage ........

I replaced the dizzy with an additional dizzy from another LS that I had. Maybe its a bad ignitor or coil? *pulling my hair out*

please help thanks

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Heat kills ignition coils. Check out the coil, see if its bloated.
The AFR swing under electrical load is your injector dead times/battery offset table.

supersilverdc2

ok so basically see if the coil is fat? i know what it looks like, ill pull and inspect.

what about a dirty open on a wire somewhere losing connection when the car gets hot? (sort of like when you bend a paperclip back and forth untill its brittle, but not broke)

supersilverdc2

is this one of those parts I can go aftermarket with? or OEM?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yes
accel makes a much stronger coil, a direct drop in replacement for OEM.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Correct.

Also, make sure you keep the plastic cover for the coil that's inside the distributor. If you don't you could cause it to arch because of the amount of mJ of energy that's higher than the OEM.



You can find them here at summit Racing.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ac...Fe99OgodMjAAZA

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

When you turn on your lights etc what does the voltage drop too.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I doubt your coil is the problem when the car is at idle

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

What temp does " gets hot mean"?

When the car is at operating temp?

After a long drive?

Is it tuned in open or closed loop

Does this happen when you let the motor idle without driving then it starts to misfire when its warmed up?

Idk how people can suggest parts with such little info

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The coil solution was only if it was indeed the problem as wantboost was suggesting. We still don't know ALL of the information, but if that is ONE item that's a part of the overall picture. One part of the solution could be this coil.

It could be plugs, wires themselves, something regarding timing, or even fuel related.

The coil wasn't the overall solution. just one portion to think about if indeed the coil was bad after further investigation.

But you're right. No details = no true solution.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

it could be anything really... until he starts testing individual components and systems and reporting back with results we can only speculate

supersilverdc2

i found a non OEM coil in the dizzy. I will purchase this coil as recommended and an ICM since I allready have the dizzy apart. then I will report back... Timing is good. fuel is good..

I start or drive the car untill its hot it will miss and after about 10-15 minutes of letting it idle to operating temp, right before the fans kick on it starts to miss... then it misses constantly when the fans kick on. or when i turn the heater on, or if i turn the headlights on... The fans stop spinning, the Rpms return to normal. seems constant with electrical load, that is why i am leaning towards an ignition issue.

checked all grounds, the one on the valve cover had paint (from painting the VC) so i scratched it off.. still same issue... The original TPS was off at .7 at idle.. It is jumping, new one on the way from JHPUSA (california resident).

will update. Thanks for all the help. I would test the leads on the plug wires, but my probe is too short (we can skip the funny jokes). lol

the plugs are new and gapped at .030 , would .032 make a difference or would .028 make a difference? i will get detailed after the new parts are in. Thanks folks.

I will do a search for the procedure for testing the dizzy and try that tonight and see where it gets me.

Question.. If i mark the dizzy with a sharpy, will it necessarily keep the timing there when i put the dizzy back? (not cranking motor while off)... how sensitive is the position of the dizzy?

supersilverdc2

*update* for the primary coil between the "+" and the "-" i get 2.4 ohms resistance... meter set at OHMS 200 (supposed to be between 0.6 and 0.8). Now when i test between the "+" and the spring (secondary coil) i dont get anything on my meter... set at 20k ohms on the meter for testing... i know its supposed to be between 12.8K and 19.2K

But the car runs... ... would it still run under this circumstance or is my meter jacked up?

i am following this thread on the HOW TO

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html

supersilverdc2

actually secondary is within spec... at 15K

NOTE my meter isnt the greatest... 9.99 harborfrieght

supersilverdc2

http://s15.postimg.org/slzvpy47f/20140521_222351.jpg

does this look burnt to you guys?

supersilverdc2

recieved the new coil today, installed ( the ACCEL from summit) had a fitment issue, had to cut the tabs back on the plastic protector and the position of the holes that the screw goes through was a bit off. Not too problematic though.. I tested the primary coil and the secondary, getting the same results but the car runs about 90% better. The idle is stable and does not fluctuate. It is solid for the most part. It still sputters a small bit at idle when its real hot, the severity has been less frequent and less agressive.

Issue is still there a small bit , to the point where i dont want to complain and ill drive it, but it is still present.

What route should i take next? I just ordered some OEM ngk plug wires , will see if that helps.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Reset the ecu.

sometimes if the coil goes bad the ecu will do funny things to compensate.

it's not uncommon for heat and vibration over the years to crack the coil potting material allowing it to arc and barely light off a cylinder.

I think once you reset the ecu and the fuel trim tables and some of the closed loop values clear themselves you'll see a difference

supersilverdc2

reset ECU same issue...

the new TPS came in the mail today... found a golf ball sized hole in the package to find that my new TPS was damaged in transit from JHPUSA. I contacted them and they advd they will work with me but will be back in the office on tuesday. Will update if this fixes the issue... for now she sits in the garage.....

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

LOL jhpusa is a joke. Theyre local to me.. Good luck with that

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If you end up needing a known good Honda tps I can help you out with one of my spares. 110% guaranteed to show up intact lol.

supersilverdc2

I may let you know... JHPUSA sent me the claim info and i posted pics of the damaged goods... They said hopefully by 2 weeks they can send me out a new TPS... WOW.... 2 weeks really? **** man i would rather just pay the 25 for a new one..... but im going to let them do their thing...

anyways here is where we are at

NEW NGK plugs and wires...
NEW coil by ACCEL

TPS calibrated to .5 idle and 4.5 WOT...


I start the car... let it warm up... it fires up every time......

when it gets to operating temp... it sputters very little now....

if i turn on the heater, it sputters from the electricity being drawn, and then the computer corrects it some 4-5 seconds later.....

can I say that this is now normal?

I have a coolant temp sensor available, i have been lazy at putting it in....

I can hear the 750CC RC injectors...

OOOO GUESS WHAT! i just got my new tool in today also, the one that adjusts the valves with the flathead and the 10mm around it... maybe needs a valve adjustment? im at about 10K miles since rebuild and I did it when i did the rebuild... what do you think?

supersilverdc2

LA area i assume? im up north in the bay.. montebello i think is North LA area am i correct? i stayed in pasadena for a while, partied alot... lots of street races out on Seco Canyon Road.

supersilverdc2

JHPUSA called me today advised they are going to ship me the new TPS.

Also, took the car on a long drive to look at a house im going to buy.. car was fine when i got there, turned it off, looked at house.... sat around for about 30 minutes......

started the car and it was sputtering again........... I put my foot on the gas pedal and it was almost as if it wanted to stall for a split second or hesitate..... or a delay in throttle response at about an 1/8 of a second... was not smooth... which brings me back to think it is the TPS.....

B and B

iTrader: (3)

Are the tps's down the street at Advance Auto/Vatozone no good?

Never knew about those coils..damnit..I bought aftermarket one time..coulda had something better.

supersilverdc2

Not sure, im not a fan of aftermarket parts from either of those companies. I have had many issues... Thats why i try to go with a company that is targeted towards what I am doing, and not just the average stock joe.