raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

im new to FI and maybe im not understanding how it works but I thought its very hard to pass emissions with a boosted motor.

especially obd2b

im putting together a type-r motor stock motor on stock ecu ( rebuilding it) and was looking for a supercharger thinking that it can run on stock ecu with its own FMU and pass emissions by OBD2 port NOT TAIL PIPE emissions

its a daily and don't want to deal with tailpipe inspection

and I also don't want to remove the turbo so I can take it to emissions to pass.
how do you manage emissions with a turbo motor?


its gonna be tuned and driven on obd1 crome or Neptune throughout the year

and only time im gonna use stock itr ecu is for emissions because its a lot easier to pass with the plugin obd2 than tailpipe test...

B and B

iTrader: (3)

So they give you the option of sniff test or plug-in?
(I'm not aware of Washington's system)

KevinEF7

The car needs to be OBD2 for the test.

NVturbo

If you have and OBD2 car but running an OBD1 ecu, GOOD LUCK trying to pass emission test because you WON'T.

OneBadTurboCRV

You say you are building a supercharged engine then later talk about removing the turbo and title heading talks about turbo. Which is it? Better yet what type of supercharger will change how you go about passing emissions; turbo is easy. It also comes down to how involved you want to get with changing things over come emission time.

Hacking OBD-2 used to be the only way to go before EMS (unless full custom install of course). It works, but it's very hard to get right and could be considered potentially disastrous if you aren't careful. Your better bet is to run OBD-1 normally and then switch to OBD-2 for emissions. MANY people do this on a regular basis, it's really not a big deal. Part of wanting to own a modified car - added everything... cost, maintenance, work, etc...

hardcore97

My car is registered in a county where I don't have to deal with emissions. Only safety hehe

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of using my vortech kit only because I can remove the belt and charge pipe to go and take the emissions as stock motor

but with a turbo I assume I have to uninstall the whole thing and install stock parts back on every time I have to take emissions?

or can I just remove the charge pipe and have the turbo spin with no load?

yes in Washington if your obd2 port doesn't work they will do a tailpipe test but once they do it and it doesn't pass you have to use tailpipe test until it passes

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

160 bucks

OneBadTurboCRV

Just like your centrifugal supercharger you can just remove the charge piping. No reason to remove a belt or anything else. As long as you aren't driving like a complete jackass you will be perfectly fine. I used to have to do this every 2 years back when I lived in an emissions county. I have plenty of friends who still have to go through the hoops. We don't have any inspections or anything of the sort. Pay for new registration and you are good to go until your plates expire. Gotta love it.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

so it wont damage the turbo if I run it with no load? I thought its not good for the compressor or something like that.

and im assuming that the turbo manifold wont change the flow that much to throw a code on a stock ecu?

that shows how much I know about FI lol.
this build is the first time I even owned any kind of FI parts. and theres so many more details than all motor. good thing its every 2 years and not every year.0

OneBadTurboCRV

Read my last post for your first question's answer.

If the turbo restricted the exhaust to the point it throws a code, then you have other issues. At worst you will need to run an O2 extension if you don't put the cat back on.

It's not that much work to swap back and forth. Change ECU, fuel injectors, pull charge piping, and reinstall secondary O2 sensor with a extension / defouler. Nothing else needs to be done aside from maybe resetting the fuel pressure depending on what you have it at or swapping the MAP sensor depending on what you have. We used to swap everything, drive to the test site and back, and swap it back again in under 2 hours. 1/3 of that was driving there and back and waiting in line.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

nice that makes my life a lot easier...

im not planning to max out the stock motor just low boost on stock map sensor. maybe stock injectors. less I have to do the better.

drmix

Just find a friend who lives out in the country. Thats what I did. Buckley, Enumclaw, eastern WA, etc

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I get pulled over alot. Dont want to explain why car is registered in the sticks and i live in seattle

mechanix619

Passing emissions in Washington state is easy and a tailpipe inspection is the only way unless the turbo components are removed and the OBD 2 ECU is used.

I did it for 7 plus years.

Each time I asked for sniff test (OBD 1).

NVturbo

You should drive a minivan or Prius then.

Wahski

hardcore97

Stock injectors and boost is asking for problems IMO

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Passing emissions in Washington state is easy and a tailpipe inspection is the only way unless the turbo components are removed and the OBD 2 ECU is used.


yes thank you lol that's my first post

wunfstgsr

JRSC setup with its fmu can pass smog you can go with a JRSC if you want to boost and pass emissons if you want. I think they rev the engine to 3k for the test so i dont even think you will be in boost anyway.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Yea now they dont even put it on a dyno.

Bend

iTrader: (2)

Hey not sure if anyone really talked about this in detail, but if you build a good mild turbo or SC setup and tune it properly, you'll be not too too far off from passing a trailpipe test. ..so you might spend extra time at the dyno and configure one tune for all out power and a second tune for passing the tailpipe emissions. A good tuner and good tech will be able to tune most properly setup mild FI engines with cat of course to pass a tailpipe test. Then when emissions time comes, just switch tunes, warm up the engine completely and drive like a grandma to the testing station.
God luck.

OneBadTurboCRV

No, that actually doesn't typically work. If you don't drive at a sustained speed before going to the test site you won't get the catalytic converter hot enough. You want that thing on border line meltdown. A well built N/A engine is actually even easier to pass emissions than a completely stock setup. I have had quite a few cars for learning curves on how to beat the sniffer test, and sometimes because of engine conditions it just will not pass. There is no guarantee because the tune is only half of the equation. E85 was usually my ace in the hole though much harder to compensate correctly and not affect other readings.

Bend

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like this will be a very mild turbo build. Obviously the catalyst needs to be at normal operating temps, hence, warned up. But as long as emissions parts are operational and the tune is tuned specifically for emissions it ought to burn clean enough. millions of turbo cars pass emissions every day.

OneBadTurboCRV

You are talking factory vehicles with specific standards for the style of engine setup (in this case turbo). WE are talking about a modified vehicle that was never intended to have forced induction on it with a non-CARB approved kit. Which by the way, just because it is CARB approved doesn't mean you can just slap it on there and go ans pass emissions testing anyways.

Depending on how involved the testing is, all the emissions components absolutely do not have to be present. I have passed with hollowed out cats with a few different vehicles. Sure, they were more recently rebuilt by myself, but the fact of the matter is it can be done.

I have ran EGT probes before and after a catalytic converter before. There is a HUGE difference between "driving grandma style" and driving at a sustained high engine speed. As long as you can cruise along and swing right into the test site with no line, it will drastically improve your chances of passing when the cat is hot, not just up to "normal operating temp".