justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

When you do the install on the kit use red lock tight and let the studs sit in the block over night to allow the liquid to dry. After that apply the gasket and tq to spec. Just a suggestion..

91b18a1ls

I read or saw in the video (can't remember) that loctite was needed for the ones on the end where the timing belt is because there isn't anything on that side for them to screw in and hold onto. Idk if that makes sense. The bolt holes are open on the top on that side. I'll make sure I do it though. Not gonna do it for a few more weeks. I need to pay off my debt first lol.

Here is a quick little video of me getting on it. I just wanted to hear what it sounded like from outside the car

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

i know what your talking about. i think i used on all of them I THINK

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The green loctite was designed for studs in high heat environments. using the red makes it impossible to remove he stud even with lock nuts. which makes it a bitch to swap out a stud if you damage or break one.

mostly because red loctite is permanent and the heat causes it to crystallize and get even harder.

The green stuff is more stable in high heat and will still allow fairly easy removal when compared to the red.

91b18a1ls

I'll definitely be using the green then.

Nothing else new has been done to the car yet. I just got back from vacation. Spent 10 days down at South Padre Island, but now I'm broke and have no idea when I'm going to get the next step done. I've got school starting in a few weeks and I gotta pay some **** off before I can throw any more money into the it. Hopefully it wont take too long to get the next step taken care of.

91b18a1ls

So recently I've been having some flutter coming from the blow off valve. I'm sure it's been there all along, but now I'm noticing it. It basically sounds like compressor surge like the bov isn't opening enough or staying open long enough. I did some research on the Greddy RZ bov and found that many people have had flutter issues with it on low boost. They all did what was called "the spring mod" to resolve the issue. Inside the bov there are two springs. They simply took out the smaller of the two and the flutter issue went away.

On my particular setup I had the bov adjusted all the way soft as much as it could go and it still sounded like compressor surge. So today I did said spring mod by removing the smaller spring. Well now I have to have the bov adjusted all the way to the hardest setting just to keep the bov from being open at idle...and I still hear the same flutter/compressor surge noise.

I'm not sure if I'm just dumb and can't figure the damn thing out or if that's just how these blow off valves act at low boost (below 6 psi). Maybe I need different springs for it, I have no idea.

The car is at -20hg vacuum sitting at idle and sees -23/25hg when I'm cruising and let off. I know Tial makes specific springs for their bov to match vacuum levels. Does Greddy?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. GReddy's is an adjustable internal spring system, no springs to swap out.

Its not an "issue". and you don't have compressor surge AT ALL, at lower boost pressures between vacuum and the 6psi you're running its just a little flutter that occurs to make sure that its opening.

Nothing is broken, nothing is surging, its the way it behaves. And to be honest, ALL OF THEM regardless of company will do that a little if its operating properly in a low-load situation.

You're just causing yourself needless worry. Leave it alone.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Also it's not a big deal for the valve to be open at idle... your car uses a map sensor so the extra air is irrelevant, most valves are open at idle it's just what they do. as long as it closes under low vacuum you're fine.

I spend most of the time adjusting bovs for friends, when running the pressure level you're at you want it to open easily/quickly once you transition into positive pressure. most have to remove one of the springs but you'll still get a small amount of flutter at the transition between 0"hg and positive pressure possibly up to 3-5psi or so.

this is simply because when the valve opens there's a pressure drop that causes it to close, then pressure builds up and it opens again. entirely normal and isn't damaging your turbo.

91b18a1ls

Thanks for the info. I always cause myself needless worries lol. If I feel something isn't right on my car it eats at me and dries me nuts until I figure out why or figure out a way of correcting it. (Although I did get the bov to act normal, will explain at the bottom)

Let me tell you a little story about a needless worry that made me feel really stupid when I figured it out the other day.

There was this metal on metal rattling noise coming from somewhere on my car. It sounded like loose change or washers rattling around. Well it drove me nuts day after day and I couldn't figure it out. I was about to leave for vacation and decided I had to jack the car up before I left to try and figure out where the noise was coming from. If I didn't it would of driven me nuts the whole time I was gone. I checked everything under the car and made sure every nut and bolt was tight (which they all were). Well the noise continued and just the other day I finally found the cause. I heard the noise, turned my head down towards the steering wheel to get a better listen and that's when I found it. I grabbed my keys that were hanging from the ignition and the noise went away... I felt sooo stupid! I couldn't believe that's all it was

Damaging my turbo was my main concern. Before I read either of these responses I was out messing with it earlier today, did some research and found out like you said wb, a lot of valves are open slightly at idle.

I left the single spring in mine and adjusted it back (softer) until the valve was open maybe 1/4th of an inch. When it's set like that I can rev it slightly and it closes completely once the vacuum decreases. I then decided to go drive it around and it's perfect now. It closes and holds boost perfectly, makes a noise clean blow off sound without any flutters or noises like before. Like you guys said it was most likely fine the way it was, but it bothered me lol. As long as it's ok to have it slightly open at idle which it should be since the car is speed density then I'm cool with leaving it as is =]

It does suck in air at idle since it's open a little, but I doubt that little amount of unfiltered air will hurt anything. Thanks for the info again guys!

Oh, on a side note. I hit 9-10 psi unintentionally today. Boost cut is still set at 6, but I guess it took the day off today lol. It's weird, some times in first it will go passed 6 and then some times it cuts. Crome is weird and I can't wait to get off of it

4drEF

Red loctite is absolutely removable.
"It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C)."

When fasteners lock together with green and won't break free with hand tools, then you heat the parts up to 250°F.

91b18a1ls

I ended up putting the red loctite on it. Seems to be holding it, bolts are backing out, but I haven't check how tight they are.

Forgot to post the most recent picture. My friend and I went on a little cruise yesterday. Well it was supposed to be a big cruise, but he forgot it was next Thursday not this past Thursday lol oops...

91b18a1ls

Alright so I can no longer trust cromes boost cut feature as a safety measure. It continues to only work when it feels like it.

I'm going to go ahead and get a dumptube made and put a smaller spring in the wastegate for now until I'm really to tune on the full 13lbs. I'd like to put a small red (5.802), green (7.252), or blue (8.702) spring in it. Those psi numbers were pulled straight from Tial's site and are what they call approximate numbers. My friend has a big yellow (10lb) spring he said I could use for now, but I feel pushing the stock map sensor up that high since it's so close to it's limit isn't a good idea. I don't want to put the 3 bar in yet either, cause then I'd have to redo the entire tune I made.

Basically I'm wanting to use the wastegate to limit the boost as it's intended instead of relying on the boost cut feature in crome like I have been. Reason I haven't been using the gate is there isn't a dump on it yet. I'm just wondering if running that 10lbs on a map that can only read to 11.2 (that's what crome says) is too close to the limit? The small green spring at 7lbs would be perfect for right now, but I'd have to either buy one or find someone that has one I can borrow

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I know it's removable with heat... without it is most definitely permanent.. you'd get a hernia trying to use hand tools to break something loose using red loctite lol.

however in some applications you can't heat the fastener due to where it is or what it's touching or what materials are around it. although in situations like that where you're in tight quarters or a situation where you can't heat something up I prefer to safety wire things.. I actually prefer safety wire above other methods since it's a way to positively retain a nut or bolt or something that can work itself loose.

I always loctite studs in, since regardless of how tight the nut is on the end of said stud it can still back its way out of the threads with lots of repeated heat cycles, then I safety wire whatever fastener is on the end of the stud.

Although I safety wire any critical fastener that if it came loose would cause damage or an unsafe condition

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

you won't damage your turbo from having an open blow off valve. once you reach "0" vacuum it closes regardless.

you could drive around with the intercooler piping disconnected and you wouldn't damage your turbo since the conditions don't exist for the turbo to go into a shaft overspeed condition...

now if you were in boost driving hard and a pipe blows off or something fails that allows a large and sudden flow of air then you could damage the turbo since the wheel would go from being loaded to unloaded very rapidly in which case the shaft speed would rapidly increase, potentially to a level where the turbo can suffer a bearing failure or have the wheel(s) separate at the hub.

but you should be fine with how you have it setup now

91b18a1ls

Cool, thanks for the info. I've been driving it around and it's all good as is.

I'm hoping to go get a dumptube made sometime next week or next weekend. I'll post photos of that once it's done.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I've become a pro at adjusting BOVs. A few of my FormulaD pro driver buddies even had me fine tune theirs lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Professional Blow Off Valve Tuner

lulz

SiShane

Car looks good. Nice build. I recently got my turbo EM1 up and running after being down for 4 yrs. I'm in Killeen so not too far away. Where are these meets in Austin?

91b18a1ls

Lol nice title
Thanks. That's crazy. I'd be so bummed if my car sat down for that long. Send me a message on fb if you've got one and we can talk about where the meets are. They change from week to week and we don't ever really know until late on the day we have them. (www.facebook.com/AlwaysInVtec)

I haven't posted in a few weeks for a couple reasons. Mainly nothing has happened on the car and two because I've been busy at school. I gotta say I have a whole new level of respect for fabrication guys who tig weld. It's way harder than I thought it would be. I think I need to start taking a muscle relaxer before I go into class cause I've got the shakiest hands in the world lol. On the other hand stick welding is really easy

Anyway onto the car. I swapped wastegate springs today, which btw is a major bitch if you don't take the gate off the car. I took the 13lb spring out and put in a 6lb spring for now. That way I can run the boost I feel safe tuning at and not have to rely on the computers boost cut feature which has it's moments of not wanting to work. I'll put the 13lb spring back in once I go get the real tune on hondata.

I'm trying to get a hold of my fabricator to make me a dumptube, but can't seem to reach him lately =[ Hopefully I can get that done soon and let the wastegate open up for the first time. Technically I could let it open now, but I don't really want hot gas spraying into my engine bay... I'll post back with photos whenever that dump gets made

MrChenzo

I saw your car at the cars and coffee meet yesterday. Gotta say pretty clean set up and ride.

KevinEF7

Stop yelling at the children!!

91b18a1ls

Thanks man
lol but it's fuuuuun =[

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Fly out and help me finish my **** lol.

I bought an 04 SVT focus as a daily late last august... car is mint other than a few scratches and chips... ran fine util it randomly didn't (3 weeks and less than 500 since purchase) and it looks like the cat had a meltdown... tried tossing everything at it for the misfire but nothing helped.

I've datalogged the **** out of this thing and I'm baffled.. I reset the ecu and it has stopped throwing codes entirely.. it even passed the misfire readiness test when it was obviously misfiring.

got the front cat bolts off today, had to stop due to rain, but I should have the car on jackstands tomorrow to finish.

go figure that when I need our lift the z06 is stuck on it. FML

91b18a1ls

Lol. I had a friend back in the day that had one of those svt's. It was a fun little car too. Interesting about your issue though. I have no idea what would be causing that. Hopefully you can get it figured out. No fun having a new car and having to fix it's issues straight away.

So finally got the dumptube made =]

I bought a 90 degree pipe, a straight pipe, and a flange



Then had a friend weld it up for me. I ended up not needed the straight pipe







Then put it on the car and it fits perfectly





I turned the boost cut up to 8lbs and let the gate do it's job. It's opening up and holding 6lbs perfectly =] I still need to get some more of the titanium wrap for the dump and then it will officially be done. Plan now is wait till next weekend, turn the vtec on, and start tuning that portion of the map

91b18a1ls

Tuned it a bit more, turned vtec on and raised the rev limit to 7k.


I also got the intercooler sprayer made yesterday and it's working well. The intercooler is staying nice and cold. I'll get pictures or video of that when I can.

I still need to fix the small oil leak on the oil pan gasket, but I noticed something else when I got under there the other day. I have a drop of oil hanging from my oil filter. I'm not sure if the filter is leaking between it and the sandwich plate, or between the sandwich plate and the block, or if the oil feed and oil pressure gauge lines that come out of the sandwich plate are leaking. I put teflon tape on those when I installed it, but looking at the tape that's sticking out on the threads it's oil colored so my guess is it's that that is leaking. If no, guess I need to use something better than teflon tape. Maybe some liquid thread sealer. I'll figure it out