97EKCAL

Almost done with my current setup, and I thought I would post its progress now that I'm nearing the end. I will(at a later date) be under the name 10secrx, so beware of that. Anyways here is the setup.

1988 Crx Si

B20b
Arias 9:1
Eagle H Beam
Acl bearings
Balanced crank
RS machine sleeves 84mm
Z10 girdle GSR main bolts
Cometic headgasket
Arp headstuds
Oem Itr oil pump
Oem Itr waterpump


PR4 head
Crower 402T cams
Crower titanium springs
Crower retainers
Blox camgears
Supertech black nitrade dished valves
70mm throttle body port matched
Skunk2 intake manifold port matched
Gatorback timing belt


Spoolin Performance Quick4 exhaust manifold
Spoolin Performance 3 inch DP
Precision 6057 turbo
RC 1000's
Braided oil lines
B&R Oil catch can
Tial Q bov
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Treadstone 25x8x3 intercooler
Custom charge pipes


Shooting for 500whp at roughly 20lbs of boost on E85, wish me luck! (How do I post pics?)

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

Youll probably need more than 20lbs to hit 500whp with that setup... Probably looking around 28-30psi.

Ive got a very similar setup... 84.5x89mm, 10:1CR, P8R head, billet 6262BB. Same cams and very similar turbo manifold too. I would recommend degreeing in those cams. The centerline is usually waaay off for the intake cam.

97EKCAL

I see, but what fuel are you running? P8R head NICE how much power are you making on the 6262? I was guessing it wouldnt be 20psi but I would love to make it under 25psi. Srry for the newb question but how do I put pics up?

Gold DA9

what fuel pump are you running? Cause if its just a 255 you will be running out of fuel with those RC1000s on e85

97EKCAL

yeah its a walbro 255 hp? lightning teg squeezed 450whp out of it on pte 1000s non vtec 20lbs, maybe it has 50 more whp??

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

Never made it to the dyno... Long story there.

I think that the ultimate limiting factor in your build is going to be the fuel system. I would really like to see a set of ID1000's and an Aeromotive 340lph pump. About 55psi base fuel pressure should get you where you need to be. You have to be kinda careful with those old EV1 style injectors and higher boost levels and fuel pressures.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Cant wait to see a dyno sheet


to post pics, goto imageshack.us and upload to there, then get the forum code that starts with [IMG] and copy and paste in the post.

yungkhmer

+1

for another b20 thread!

97EKCAL

Yeah thanks for the support, I have a lot of $ tied up in this project. My last project was a ls-t on a basic log style setup on 8lbs t3/t4 turbonetics 57 trim making 248whp/212 ft lbs on the street in my dc2 it was a v8 killer, fully gutted Aladdin seats the works. I'll post pics of that too. This time around I wanted to build off a lighter chassis. And the crx works perfect I just hate how small the engine bay is. I'll try and get some pics up now I'm on my phone so its kinda slow. :/

Yeah I really want id1200s+ and hondata and msd or something with more spark but i think I can make the power safely on Chrome pro. I have no doubt it will make 400whp but I'm shooting for 500whp efficiently

97EKCAL

97EKCAL

K7-1Ktrevor

why not go with a bigger cam? I have no personal expierience with the 402-t's but a local tuner was telling me that he thought that they held a car back quite a bit that he tuned. the car ended up making no more then 365whp with those cams on 20lbs and a top mount.

97EKCAL

I have white Rota Group N's on it now ill try and get some more pics up soon.

97EKCAL

Yeah I mean I have no experiemce with them either, I've read the 404s are the best but i came up on them for a really good price and they are better than stock. Honestly if this setup doesn't break mid 400s I'm going vtec. I love the powerband of non vtec but having torque later in the powerband holding strong to 10k is a lot better than having more down low and dropping off at 7k

K7-1Ktrevor

you would be better off with vtec for your power goals. Im a huge non v lover but vtec is the way to go if you wanna make big numbers to be honest. Iv used 404's and wasn't really happy with them to be honest. in my opinion the best way to do a ls turbo is stock motor, arp headstuds and rod bolts and a b16 intake manifold and keep it to 300-350whp and call it a day. put that in a light car and it will murder alot of ****.

97EKCAL

I feel you yeah that was kinda my goal with the first build I did I wanted 300whp higher boost. But that motor gave out because I was already tuned to 12.1 wot afr and like an idiot i was racing on an empty tank(end of the night) and i revd to 7500 and cracked a sleeve. Then I threw a b20 into it and sold the teg. Went out and bought this vex and went to work with big dreams. Honestly i want to run 10s and top the car out at 200mph lol cause I think it would be sick. My teg went 170mph at 248whp I think with enough gear from the ls granny I can hit 200mph

97EKCAL

Not trap 200mph just like standing mile lol just to be clear. You think a 1800lb vex with 400whp+ can do 10's ?

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

FYI, 402-T cams have the highest lift of any off-the-shelf non-VTEC cam. I really like mine except for the fact that the centerline is JUNK.

97EKCAL

What exactly does the higher lift do? Vs long duration? Also what do you mean by centerline, mine installed very easily. Or do you mean they need to be degreed a lot to run at optimum performance

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

high lift means more air coming into the cylinder. same concept aroung long duration, but more turbo friendly. long duration cams with a good bit of overlap are not a good choice for turbo cars unless you are shooting for 700+HP. You need a large turbo moving alot of air to take advantage of large overlapping cams. On small turbo cars, it usually just makes the boost come on really lazy. Think about it... you are simply blowing your boost(produced from turbocharger) through the head and out the exhaust if both valves are open at the same time(overlap).

Centerlines are usually off due to manufacturing process in aftermarket cams... My BC2 turbo intake cam was around 12-14* off. Its the location of the highest lift point on the cam lobe.

Are your cams from "Crower" or "Brian Crower"?

IMO, I would never just drop in a set of cams into my engine w/o degreeing them. Its not all that hard to do and gives you valuable insight into your engine and builds knowledge about nearly every aspect of ICE engines along the way.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I was going to post up about the overlap, but i figured a good set of cam gears could tune out the overlap.

97EKCAL

Oh I see wow 12 degrees ?? Yeah I did just drop it in but so far 4000+ miles no problem so I THINK its safe to say the cam is fine. But I'm sure the tuner will adjust them to the correct setting to make the most power.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

the only cams you can get away without degreeing are stock cams, or regrinds on stock cams, because the centerlines are still the same. Brand new cores the cam lobes can be in virtually any position vs where they are at on the gear key marker. Seriously though, with E85 you can definitely bump the compression up to 10:1 and then some. Ive seen some drag only builds that ran E85 with 12.5:1 compression on 35psi.

97EKCAL

Oh so at this point its all in the tune to figure out what degree to run them at though? Am i understanding this correctly because they are installed and no bent valves so far..but for the sake of power I hope they are off quite a bit so they can pull that much more power out of this setup. Yeah I have 3-4 e85 stations locally (less than 15 miles) san jose,ca is lucky to have this many. I went 9:1 just because I bought the block for $3000 assembled minus the girdle and gsr oil pickup, Itr oil pump and gsr waterpump. if i could do the block all over again I would use stronger rods than eagle h beams and I would use.10:5 - 11:1 compression. And still utilize e85, I just hope all the bolt ons, aggressive timing from e85 and the sleeves help me run well over what these stock block 20psi builds are doing (350whp) safely. If i don't hit 450whp I swear you will see this head go for sale in marketplace. I will then purchase a built credit head baby portjob done and boost that at 25psi and make 550whp np. But I did this just because my ls-t took so many brevity turbo hatches out around here everyone thought I had itr turbo it was Hella funny. I think the torque and midrange on non vtec are significant, only time will tell. Turbo kit goes on as soon as my Zx-9r gets a new battery, that could be tomorrow if work let's me out early :p

97EKCAL

Vtec * Vtec * lol autospell fail -_____-