Slow00si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and they are not legal to use for NHRA. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i e-mailed nhra about the dart block and they told me the dart gsr block is acceptable in sfwd i dont know if they just made that change or not but thats what i was told today

earl

That makes no sense but it could be true for next year, I guess. There seems to be a lot of things being allowed now that were not legal in the past

Jared

Just checking some quick numbers, if you use the tall block with an ls crank, eagles long long rod will give you a 1.702 rod ratio and still allow use of a stock comp. ht. piston. anyone done something like that?

miller

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow00si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


i e-mailed nhra about the dart block and they told me the dart gsr block is acceptable in sfwd i dont know if they just made that change or not but thats what i was told today </TD></TR></TABLE>

not saying that your lying, but i highly doubt it.

Peter Shen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just checking some quick numbers, if you use the tall block with an ls crank, eagles long long rod will give you a 1.702 rod ratio and still allow use of a stock comp. ht. piston. anyone done something like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not that i can recall but i remember seeing there was this guy running a crower 92mm crank in the dart block with the 5.9ish" rods.. it looked like a nice combo.. can't seem find the thread tho'

i think an experienced engine builder wouldn't have all that much trouble like we did with the dart, but i can imagine it to be still alot of effort.. we must've spent a few days messing with the timing belt haha

the pistons which CP made for my 5.531" rods.. the skirt is rather short and the wristpin is very very close to the oil ring.. and this was for a stock LS crank.. i can't imagine the pistons if you stick a 95mm crank into a stock deck block and try to use long rods..

a year back i was obsessed with this R/S thing LOL.. after reading the experiences of folks like you guys.. now i rather build an engine that meets my power goals and budget rather than overdoing it with all the custom stuff


Modified by Peter Shen at 2:08 AM 11/16/2006

Pondus

That might be me, I have a talldeck Dart with 92mm stroke and 5.89" rods. Pistons have stock 1.181" compression height.

Here's more info on my particular setup : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1426425

Part of my decision for buying a Dart block was also as mentioned earlier, as I live in Norway, getting my stock block sent out for sleeving would cost me a LOT ( it cost me $300 to ship a head to CA for porting, and $200 for the return shipping) as I do not trust any locals to do the sleeving. A $1000 sleeve job + cost of shipping out the block (probably $4-500) isd about the same as what I had to pay for the Dart block. I did of course have to pay for a local machine shop to bore and hone it but I believe I came out of it rather good financially. After all, I now have a spare B18C6 block that I can sell off or use as a starting point for another build.

But it is correct about the blocks beeing a bit rough, as I also had to do a good bit of prepwork and cleaning before it was ready to use.

JDMorgan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not saying that your lying, but i highly doubt it. </TD></TR></TABLE> gsr height dart block is legal, the tall deck one is the one we are talking about in this thread. you are not aloud taller than gsr deck height at all whether it is deck plate or aftermarket block (last i checked).

Slow00si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not saying that your lying, but i highly doubt it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

here's the e-mail i got back, but like the other guy said stock heigh gsr deck just not the tall block because theres not much difference than a regular sleeved gsr block other than it being closed deck and stronger main caps.

The Dart block available for Hondas is an acceptable replacement
block; in the Sport FWD class.

Pat Cvengros

Technical Services Representative

(626) 250-2295

earl

Did the guy even understand that there are 2 different heights available on the Dart? Would not the guy mention the different heights?
Either way, I see zero horsepower gain between a Dart and an OEM anyway.

Slow00si

i know theres not a power difference but i dont know why he didnt say anything about the b20 tall block vs gsr but i e-mailed just asking about the gsr dart block, only advantage to me with the dart is the big main caps and being closed deck. but i dont know if im going to go with one or not erl is our local sleeve company but after i get their mid sleeves and a girdle its the price of the dart and my dad owns a machine shop so he can machine the dart for me free so as of right now im up in the air on which one im going to get.

Dueceification

I personaly would not waiste my money on it. With the extra money you can buy other parts. If you want displacement go with a H22 or a K series. I know everyone may or may not agree with me. One thing I have learned is there is nothing better then OEM Honda. Sure in certain situations you have to go aftermarket escpecially when going turbo. If you are worried about shipping costs you can buy blocks already sleeved from various companies then you could sell your stock block in canada or keep it as a back up. Also stroking takes away from top end power which is what hondas are about. If you want low end power then I would personally recomend some american muscle which are fun to drive too

RACEPAK

lol

Slow00si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93b16hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personaly would not waiste my money on it. With the extra money you can buy other parts. If you want displacement go with a H22 or a K series. I know everyone may or may not agree with me. One thing I have learned is there is nothing better then OEM Honda. Sure in certain situations you have to go aftermarket escpecially when going turbo. If you are worried about shipping costs you can buy blocks already sleeved from various companies then you could sell your stock block in canada or keep it as a back up. Also stroking takes away from top end power which is what hondas are about. If you want low end power then I would personally recomend some american muscle which are fun to drive too </TD></TR></TABLE>

were local to a sleeve company but my cost on dart blocks is basically the same as most sleeved blocks with a good girdle and im not going b20 if i do get a dart block im going gsr and using a ls crank etc.
ive got a gsr block now but all the headstud threads stripped out and were helicoiled before i bought the block for dirt cheap and it pulled the helicoils out also and gsr block are not easy to find in this area even on here their a couple hundred for a shortblock and then shipping and then sleeving it and getting a girdle and main studs and a linehone etc, i would be over my cost of a dart block

Jared

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best thing about Dart blocks is their strength in the main bearing area. The issue is that OEM Hondas just don't have a problem in that area. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

then why do they need main correction after sleeving?

tepid1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

then why do they need main correction after sleeving?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the sleeve job is done right you don't.

yugadnoh

thats not true.

earl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then why do they need main correction after sleeving?</TD></TR></TABLE> I would swear on the lives of my kids that I have never once had to align bore or align hone a Benson block after sleeving. Benson says it is because he takes less material out of a block than other sleeve installers so the blocks do not relieve themselves, thus mis-aligning the main bearing tunnel.

hondaapi

But can´t misaligning of the main journal be caused over the years when the block is a used one?

yugadnoh

have you ever had to line bore a honda block because of mis-alignment when
not sleeving the block(core shift)?

tepid1

^^^ Read above. The mains shift when metal is removed from the block structure. I highly doubt that a block that was tuned well and never spun a bearing is going to need a main alignment.

yugadnoh

have you ever checked the main alignment on a block before?if so,how did you check it?