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Got a blox racing 70mm throttle body since skunk refused to figure out why the tps wouldnt fit. This one fits perfect. Like the skunk2 look better but if it doesnt work... doesn't come w a gasket tho so gotta make one.
got my ortiz clock replacement 2 guage pod for my boost gauge and afr gauge. Gonna install that and the throttle body this weekend. After talking to my buddy who knows a lot more than i do said he ran 10-30 to break in and then 20w50 after that or else his vtec makes noise. So got some comp cams break in oil. Clutch is beld, coolant filled, got a new laptop and installed hondata, gave my valave cover and downpipe to a shop to get it welded togethe, had to make a test pipe since nobody makes a 3 in test pipe. So basically just waiting for exhaust and vc to get back, was told in next week and ahould be ready to start it.
Nice progress! I almost bought Ortiz for my gauges, especially when I was going to try to do something besides pillar mounted, but I just cheaped out and bought a GlowShift pillar mount. Do you feel like the Ortiz pod was worth the money? Can't really tell from the picture.
made a bracket and got chase bays overflow since the oe one doesnt fit since my rad was moved over so far.
ya im pretty happy w the gauge pod. 100 bucks isnt bad but i did have to wait a month for it. Had some weird things going on inside the pod but doesnt affect the look or fit, do need to transfer over the clips from the clock so make sure you have those but ya im for sure happy w the clean look. And i always hear people say those gauge pillars are a huge blindspot.
Car starts and runs. Ran for probky 30 min on stands, still runs rich at 12.2 but i dont have my afr sensor wired in to my ecu yet so im thinkin maybe once i get that in itll help cuz it has no sensor in it currently. Although my bov is open all yhe time at idle, idling around 20 inches. There were no springs in either my bov or wastegate box so i guess i just assumed they set them up when i ordered the kit, they both have been opened and resealed looks like. So gonna have to email monday and see what the deal is. But just gotta bleed breaks and could theoretically drive it.
As long as air is coming OUT of the BOV... you are OK. If it is sucking in outside air... this is no good. In some cases, the engine will not idle because of the amount of air volume being created by the turbo at idle speeds. This air volume "loads up" the engine and will create a hunting or high idle... erratic either way.
As long as air is coming OUT of the BOV... you are OK. If it is sucking in outside air... this is no good. In some cases, the engine will not idle because of the amount of air volume being created by the turbo at idle speeds. This air volume "loads up" the engine and will create a hunting or high idle... erratic either way.
My BOV boost source is after the throttle plate, so at idle / high vacuum, the BOV is open. I thought this was normal? I don't feel like I have any idle issues.
Its a tial q bov. And ya they have spring adjustments but no springs came w the kit so guess i just assumed they set it up for me? And idk ive read both that it is normal and that its not. I have my vacuum source set to after the throttle plate. When it was hooked up it like rattled pretty loud tho at idle , doesnt seem normal tho.
My BOV boost source is after the throttle plate, so at idle / high vacuum, the BOV is open. I thought this was normal? I don't feel like I have any idle issues.
Originally Posted by boostedjd
Its a tial q bov. And ya they have spring adjustments but no springs came w the kit so guess i just assumed they set it up for me? And idk ive read both that it is normal and that its not. I have my vacuum source set to after the throttle plate. When it was hooked up it like rattled pretty loud tho at idle , doesnt seem normal tho.
Open BOV when idling isn't supposed to happen, but it can. It's a problem if you're having idle issues, it should be addressed. I'm running the Greddy FV and it's closed tighter than a Nun's... Well, it's closed completely at idle. If I loosen it to the point of being open at idle, I get the ol' surge. The CXRACING BOV had this problem. I had to REALLY finagle the adjustment though because it would be too tight to release properly when I let off throttle under boost, and anything looser than that caused it to remain open at idle. I had to adjust it to as close to closed as I could get it, then adjust my IACV and idle fuel settings. PITA it was...
My BOV boost source is after the throttle plate, so at idle / high vacuum, the BOV is open. I thought this was normal? I don't feel like I have any idle issues.
You have it exactly right DaX... and set up how it should be. If you want to see what the surge phenomenon is like, get your BOV source input between the intercooler and throttle body. The point to my previous post is that many people think that something is wrong when they see their BOV open while the engine is idling... and in fact, this is perfectly normal.
Its vacuum thats opening the bov anyway so its correct. My tial knockoff i tried for sound tests is doing the exact same thing.
Blitz supersound was slightly open at idle too. Some bovs do it.
You have it exactly right DaX... and set up how it should be. If you want to see what the surge phenomenon is like, get your BOV source input between the intercooler and throttle body. The point to my previous post is that many people think that something is wrong when they see their BOV open while the engine is idling... and in fact, this is perfectly normal.
^^ Problems **shouldn't** happen, but they are possible. As I mentioned, I had problems on mine as well while it was open. My Greddy is closed up like ft. Knox and no issues. My engine doesn't like an open BOV valve. Others may not as well. Lol. This is a simple potential solution to an issue that could be several other unseen possibilities taking MUCH longer to diagnose. Why ignore it?
Setup looks great. A floating BOV at idle is the result of a softer spring being used which on the other end of the spectrum reacts faster when needed. On a MAP car this is perfectly fine.
Setup looks great. A floating BOV at idle is the result of a softer spring being used which on the other end of the spectrum reacts faster when needed. On a MAP car this is perfectly fine.
I guess my main concern is why does it sound like tocks rattling in an aluminum can at idle when open?
Also looked at the box and i have a 1 bar wastegate and 6psi spring in my bov.
but according to this chart my car idles at 19-20 in/hg i should have plain or yellow spring. And id rather have it closed at idle cuz that just is unfiltered air entering your engine.
Also found this while googling the problem
i emailed tial myself but guess theyre closed till the 19th so well find out.
In other news found a 40 dollar lip and put my bumper and the lip on, doesnt look bad for zip ties and double sided tape as long as you dont get too close lol
only thing left to figure out is that bov. No codea besides o2 sensor cuz there isnt one but my aem uego is wired into my ecu so should be ok. Prob gonna try and drive it this week and make aure its good and break in parts before ita gets slammed on the dyno.
I guess my main concern is why does it sound like tocks rattling in an aluminum can at idle when open?
Also looked at the box and i have a 1 bar wastegate and 6psi spring in my bov.
but according to this chart my car idles at 19-20 in/hg i should have plain or yellow spring. And id rather have it closed at idle cuz that just is unfiltered air entering your engine.
Also found this while googling the problem
i emailed tial myself but guess theyre closed till the 19th so well find out.
In other news found a 40 dollar lip and put my bumper and the lip on, doesnt look bad for zip ties and double sided tape as long as you dont get too close lol
only thing left to figure out is that bov. No codea besides o2 sensor cuz there isnt one but my aem uego is wired into my ecu so should be ok. Prob gonna try and drive it this week and make aure its good and break in parts before ita gets slammed on the dyno.
Check the valve piston for excess play. What you describe seems as if it is dancing around in the valve body.
Ya pretty much **** skunk2. The softer spring, 10psi, worked fine at least without hitting boost. Driven it probly 50-60 miles but it keeps wanting to lean way out so might just have to take to get tuned before i can put more miles on it. Want to get it tuned by dave blundell cuz ive heard good things about him. But got no leaks or anything ao i think ill be good, would like to break the clutch in more but guess id rather replace the clutch than the engine from leaning out. So hopefully give him a call this week and see when i can get something set up
08-24-2019, 02:05 PM
Re: Boostedjd's Prospective GS-R turbocharger build thread
is doing the exact same thing.
