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got my tubrosmart boost gauge, turbosmart manual boost controller, and radiator mount kit. About the only things i have left is the skunk 2 megapower rr exhaust, aem uego, and gauge pod.
Emailed skunk2 anout this tps sensor and still no word back so guess ill have to call or something. Every video i look up everyone says it just drops right in but
it cleary sits to far out. So not sure what to do besides call and see unless anyone else has ran into this issue.
Have mY work car show this Thursday then i think im about out of excuses to not start putting this in lol.
Usually you have to put it on angled since its keyed, then turn it back to where the bolt holes line up, did you try that or were you just trying to put it straight on? Look inside each to see what I'm referring to.
Nope. Too long of a tale from 2012. Glad its over. Search via Google for Skunk2 Bounty. I remember that ****, and was glad it was over.
I just spent some time looking into it. Sounds LUDICROUSLY childish. If I'd seen this **** 2 years ago, S2 would not have gotten the money from me it has. I've enjoyed their parts to date, just not their customer relations but had I seen it, just like YOU have ethical reasons you dont do business with some companies, I'd have been the same. S2 has lost a customer in me.. I'll never purchase nor back their products again..
I just spent some time looking into it. Sounds LUDICROUSLY childish. If I'd seen this **** 2 years ago, S2 would not have gotten the money from me it has. I've enjoyed their parts to date, just not their customer relations but had I seen it, just like YOU have ethical reasons you dont do business with some companies, I'd have been the same. S2 has lost a customer in me.. I'll never purchase nor back their products again..
Why I haven't used that company since when the entire mess started to surface online.
Called in and they told me to email pics...lol. Said hes never heard of this problem before so he needs pics to send to the r+d team so hopefully I'll have answers. Meanwhile...
Called in and they told me to email pics...lol. Said hes never heard of this problem before so he needs pics to send to the r+d team so hopefully I'll have answers.
Don't hold your breath. I had problems with the Alpha Lite rods fitting down my cylinders originally. They were just a FRACTION too large. I called Skunk2 for advice.. The first rep I spoke with said he would exchange them because from the pictures I sent, he said, yeah they're not going to fit properly and you may have gotten a bad batch or something, and then a couple hours later I got a call from a manager that, by the way, was a TOTAL dick, said that the rods were not meant for stock bore.. Wtf?! It didn't specify anything about this at all anywhere in the description.They offered to refund, but not exchange, and NO further assistance.
Emailed a bunch of pics and they even asked for a copy of my receipt? Sent that in 2 daya ago and no word back yet. Anyway removed my fuel pump, got an automotive 340 11542. Thought they were supposed to be plug and play but it has a diff connector, guess the 11142 was the plug and play one and these superced that one from what their website says so looks like im just gonna depin it and hardwire it straight into the oe wires.
Emailed a bunch of pics and they even asked for a copy of my receipt? Sent that in 2 daya ago and no word back yet. Anyway removed my fuel pump, got an automotive 340 11542. Thought they were supposed to be plug and play but it has a diff connector, guess the 11142 was the plug and play one and these superced that one from what their website says so looks like im just gonna depin it and hardwire it straight into the oe wires.
Just clip the plug on the pump and solder some spade connectors like I did for my Hellcat.. It had a similar plug to yours. Clipped the wires and soldered male spade connectors. Heatshrink tube and plugged into stock hanger. Done and done!
Hey man. I would honestly reconsider using that pump. I was using the stealth 340 pump, that caused my motor to let go. Split the sleeves. The pump has a pressure relief setting of 60psi or. Meaning you can only run 20psi or less before it starts leaning HARD! Checkout the specs of the pump. Even if you werent planning on running 20psi, you still dont want your pump nearly maxed out.
The other alternative is doin the fuel pump mod. Where you crush the relief valve. But even then, how much will that get you.
Good thinking on the soldering pins, might have to try that. And as far as the pump you're the first person I've ever heard have anything bad to say about aeromotive. Jegs website says it'll support 700 for turbo efi. I dont plan on going over 500. And if i remember correctly i think people use the walbro 255 for 5-600 hp before.
I had some extra clamp on pins i laying around so used those and some solder for good measure, turned out nicely. Fuel pumps done.
brake line tuck/ abs delete done.
abs unit gone, just zip tied the old connectors to the existing harness and tucked them away as much as possible
Good thinking on the soldering pins, might have to try that. And as far as the pump you're the first person I've ever heard have anything bad to say about aeromotive. Jegs website says it'll support 700 for turbo efi. I dont plan on going over 500. And if i remember correctly i think people use the walbro 255 for 5-600 hp before.
The point im tryin to make is dont get caught up on the flow of the pump just yet. It will flow x amount of fuel at an x amount of pressure. It has a max pressure of about 60psi. If you have the fuel pressure set to 43-50psi, that means you can only run 10-17psi before it leans out.
Its a chase bays brake line tuck kit, heres the proportioning valve that sits on the drivers side of the master cylinder so its hidden behind the strut tower. You also have to flip the brake booster around so the vacuum line is on the passenger side otherwise that nipple hits the proportioning valve. But ya think it cleans it up quite a bit. Got the chase bays fuel line tuck kit as well to run an inline fuel filter but idk how i like it cuz the end that screws onto the oe line isnt like a fitting you gotta put on and flare the line, it just clamps on with a hose clamp which to me seems like just asking for leaks.
battery relocation halfway done, gotta tuck the wire on the inside. And from what i understand i only gotta run this wire to the starter then can run a smaller 8g wire from the starter constant to the fuse block? Obviously im not running abs so i dont need to worry about the one going from fuse block to abs.
Its a chase bays brake line tuck kit, heres the proportioning valve that sits on the drivers side of the master cylinder so its hidden behind the strut tower. You also have to flip the brake booster around so the vacuum line is on the passenger side otherwise that nipple hits the proportioning valve. But ya think it cleans it up quite a bit. Got the chase bays fuel line tuck kit as well to run an inline fuel filter but idk how i like it cuz the end that screws onto the oe line isnt like a fitting you gotta put on and flare the line, it just clamps on with a hose clamp which to me seems like just asking for leaks.
battery relocation halfway done, gotta tuck the wire on the inside. And from what i understand i only gotta run this wire to the starter then can run a smaller 8g wire from the starter constant to the fuse block? Obviously im not running abs so i dont need to worry about the one going from fuse block to abs.
Make 150% sure you install a large ANL (150-200 amp) fuse in the rear of the car within 18 inches of the battery and also install a grommet around the wire coming through the firewall. It’s amazing how fast things will go south if that wire ever grounded out. Then keep a few spare fuses in the car
cant wait to see this thing make some boost. don't run that tuck kit if it requires hose clamps on the fuel feed. you can get a Russel filter that goes right on the stock feed and you can bend it down to the sub frame.
new injector harnesses made.
clutch installed
installed engine and turbo
got a jb tuned fuel line tuck, hopefully installed the fitting correctly lol
didn't really think about this, looks like new valne cover it is and vent it from the rear.
mounts made and everything standing ok its own. STILL waiting fpr skunk2 engineering team to get back to me. Thinking of running royal purple break in 10-30 as ive heard its one of the only ones left that has zinc. Do a drive cycle of 50 or so miles and change oil to regular synthetic 10-30. About 100000000000 diff opinions on what oil to run and how often to change it but seems like majority run 10-30. Seen shops do a drive cycle, change and call it a day to people changing it every 50 miles so
07-02-2019, 07:25 PM
Re: Boostedjd's Prospective GS-R turbocharger build thread
