3gdean

New to the forum and new to boost.

Would really like some input and info on the setup i should be running please.

stock block/head
treadstone cast manifold
3 inch turbo back
2.5inch ic pipe
garret replica T3 30/76 (cheap, not getting terrible reviews and is holding up to the punishment my mate gives it)
walboro 255
750cc injectors
Hondata.

price is around the 2k mark this is my limiting factor for the time being

im not after a certain amount oh hp dont want to go above 400 (if itll do that i have no idea :-)), just wondering as the turbo is on the large side what psi to run safely.

Cheers

Dean

civic-steve-94

Boost pressure is up to the tuner and wanted power level. 400whp is a tad risky, some have done it and ran it for years others have crack sleeves on the dyno. If I were you I would find a good local tuner call him and see what he recommends power wise. my best advise is find a really good tuner.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

You'll need a set of headstuds and a stronger clutch at minimum.

you won't make 400hp on stock internals safely, especially if using typical pump gas. the safe limit for internals is 300-350 depending on fuel, compression ratio, and your tuner. if you plan on making 350-400 you will need forged internals, especially if you want this setup to be reliable.

You'll also need a wideband to monitor afr and you really can't tune effectively without one.

psi doesn't matter, power level does... run whatever psi it takes to make the power you want but if you insist on staying with stock internals and want reliability don't go much over 300-325

read the FAQs stickied at the top of this forum and go from there.

3gdean

Sorry perhaps should have elaborated abit more.
cheers for the input

I said 400 max because thats pushing the limits of the standard internals, from reading various forum FAQ's three times over. although 505hp has been achieved on a stock b18c4 for 15,000 miles. Below 350ish is best to leave stock and the sleeves being the weak point, obviously depending on map.

Failed to mention clutch and AFR as though it was a no brainer.

Rest of my cash is going on competition clutch Stage4 (dont know exactly what torque this will take but gets good reviews and should to be enough) aem wideband afr gauge.
Basics IC, oil/water lines, wastegate, Bov, alloy rad, other gauges, catch can (get mixed reviews on whether to use one or not) map sensor.
Stock compression 10.1,, 97 or 99 ron fuel as it always has.
Ngk bkr7e plugs gapped .22. magnecore 8.5mm leads

I failed to mention that the only reason i wanted to know what sort of psi to run is due to it being road mapped, so no figure off the dyno to go off.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

500hp was done on race gas and definitely wasn't meant to be anywhere near reliable... it was done to simply prove a point.

if you want a reliable setup don't push it past 350... Been there, done that.

3gdean

so you know the car?
it was on PUMP fuel, and yes it was done to prove a point of how much power the stock engine can take and it lasted 15,000miles, just shows how awesome these engines are (and how good his mapping is)

i get your point about reliable hp.

Dark_Teg

Ditch the Treadstone cast manifold and get a good ram horn. You will make a lot more power at a lower PSI which is great for reliability.

3gdean

Picked the treadstone manifold up already for very cheap that i couldnt pass up, thats the only reason i started this build :-)

if im not happy with the setup thatll be the first change, in good time though.