Built4Battle

Hi guys
I'm trying to get a little better catch can than the one I have right now.
And I'm really interested in the asp can with the battery so I don't have to relocate my battery.
So if your using it or used it tell me how it is or was

Any info would be appreciated.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Anyone using it? Advanced Street Performance LLC - our quality is your peace of mind

I sure like the design keeping the battery. I too dont want to have to relocate.

2000GSRTypeR

I was also looking into the ASP catch can because I didn't want to relocate my battery but then I saw this.

wunfstgsr

Was also planning to get one of these and run two lines off the VC. Dont want to relocate my Battery.

OneBadTurboCRV

Yes, I have been running one. It sucks. Leave your key forward for 10-15 minutes (troubleshooting, etc) = not enough juice to start. Have an alarm and don't start your car for a week or two? Dead battery... Need more than two cranks (forget kill switches), dead battery.

All this was during summer with the FullRiver battery, which is the better one. The Odyssey battery was even worse... I bought one to see if it was any better even though the specs were worse. Basically you are better off with relocation of the battery rather than the motorcycle batteries if this is a daily driver. Just my opinions based off of my experience...

I always had a battery tender on mine, but they do recharge fast. It would be wise to keep a LiPo battery in the car for those random jump starts you WILL need LOL!

On a totally separate note, ASP was a pure PITA to deal with. He kept trying to send me other catch cans he had "already built" that had less fittings than what I specified in my order per the instructions. I wanted 5 fitings on certain sides, and he kept offering ones with 3 or 4 all on the same side. IIRC, took months to get the one I ordered too...

LightningTeg

I never understood why most catch can fittings are put on the side. Once the oil gets to a certain level its going to go back into your engine. You want nasty fuel-oil sludge draining back into the block? no thanks.

OneBadTurboCRV

Well that's why you run a drain... I have mine set up to normally drain as it needs to but can be capped off if I go to a track or something of that nature.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, will look elsewhere

LightningTeg

Right, but limits the capacity of the catch can if you don't drain back.

2kdrift

Do you have a driveway? Seems like if you do this your stall would have a huge oil slick

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

If this was the case something is wrong with your car. A leaky oil pan gasket would make more of a mess.

OneBadTurboCRV

If yours is baffled properly pretty much only water comes out. If you are pushing that amount of oil then you need to look elsewhere for issues. If it's that much of an issue then use a tray and some cardboard.

Destroy a $10k engine or stain a $10k concrete pad? Decisions, decisions... LOL! Just teasing.

LightningTeg

Do you have an example of good baffling? Im building a new one once this tig welder gets here...

OneBadTurboCRV

I used the factory one, but didn't remove it like the link below = laziness; plus mine are on top because I could on my application. If you want a clean install then I highly suggest welding from the inside or use what they did in the link below. Basically this link is one of the better write-ups I have seen. (Descriptions are in pictures.)


Honda Crankcase Ventilation System - Honda Tuning Magazine


Otherwise I have seen some of the bigger companies / race teams completely remove the stock baffling and just weld a piece of aluminum plate in front of the port / fitting. Just my preference, but I prefer to use the stock baffling. Plenty of flow, but covers almost the entire camshaft to protect from oil slinging.