ls joker

lol. made it back huh. was it eatin you havin to sit back and read the other posts. not being able to say anything lol

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Not really in all seriousness.

I just lold hard when they banned ypu. Thats how upset he got
Its all good tho.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Cool you bought some arp bolts.

Maybe this will help clear things up

I noticed notaracist bought a super charger


Well i remember i think right before i got banned him bashing super chargers and telling another poster not to buy one.

That right there is what i mean when i say i dont trust you if i cant see that youre really about the lyfe

Reading posts online then regurgitating the info is just wrong.

I had a good chuckle about those gates belts too.

I think the op in that thread got some advice, bought the belt then was told to buy a different belt.

I run a gates no problem with a milled head. I know what hes doing wrong but the experts chimed in already so god speed

OneBadTurboCRV

Oh? Enlighten us then what he is doing wrong then though or what information I am regurgitating? I actually have been running Gates Blue Racing belts for years now, non-milled, milled, non-tensioned, tensioned, etc... have always seen the same thing. Heck, you can even see I am running a Gates Blue in the link where I posted pictures of my tensioner setup.

Anwho, got my CC put in and my old shitty setup is back on for winter or longer (who knows, since I move like molasses), still have some changes to make like a real IAT block off plate, battery setup change, and other odds and ends. But here you go though since I am feeling genrous, didn't plan on posting a picture of my what most would call a stupid setup then again it's a "lame" platform (amirite?), but I did this design years ago (no, my IATs don't suffer)... but I am 'bout dat lyfe y0!!! Here is how it currently sits, sorry I didn't clean it for the picture, but I actually drive my **** and don't really care.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I dont want to "over obsess" in that thread tho.

Only one person can be " right" ya know?

Cool manifold, interesting intake design.

OneBadTurboCRV

Oooh, I got you...

Well, as you might already know, I must explain... I used to have a ('05ish?) STI hoodscoop to a filter box for the intake. My new manifold design doesn't utilize this (plus I hated the look), so when using the old manifold, it leaves me with an unfortunate intake predicament you see. But thanks, that setup has thousands of miles on it as you see it - wrap and all. That stuff really holds up well, still waiting for the stainless steel manifold to rust out though.

Geis

So it looks like banned boys + cali crew (banned cali boys crew?) is back in action. Now FI can go back to the ushe

ls joker

yea tell me bout it. yet all the bs that goes on over there......

ls joker

looks beasty

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Show me a pic of your foot pedal for the ahp welder

Idk if I want to upgrade mine

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Honestly 1158s timing issue has me stumped. Hatchy PM me, I'm curious. Also why did you get banned? I never heard the reason.

And I'm reaching out for some help...

I'm finally in a position to get the SVT running this week so I took the battery out and brought it inside to charge it where it isn't crazy cold. Being tired and cleaning the house for thanksgiving I walked outside with trash and knocked the damn battery off and it hit the ground and split (ah the smell of lead and sulphuric acid). So now obviously with no battery I'm stuck.

I don't see the point in buying another "standard" lead acid battery, especially when I have plans to relocate it. Does anyone have a hookup on a decent 12v AGM "racing" battery? Only needs a high enough amp hour rating to run usual street car electronics and a mild audio system.

I'm in a bind and would really appreciate any help. I do have an Optima yellow top in the garage but the damn thing doesn't want to hold a charge but tests out ok and is outside Optimas warranty.

I ruvs joo guise

OneBadTurboCRV

I don't have the AHP, in Caoboy's thread I said I wished I would have waited for it to come out. When I bought my Eastwood, AHP wasn't out yet (at least not the nicer one you got).

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Imagine that, you running your mouth with only half the story in your head. Like that should be any kind of surprise.

He was taking shots at another mod, and took a hop skip and a jump straight over the line.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I'm used to sizing batteries for gutted out race cars... Trying to figure out battery capacity for a full feature street car is wtf.

Geis

So am I not allowed to post in community forums because I have an infraction, or did toyomatt just bar me in the FI forums?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You probably have a ban from that specific subforum. Infractions alone don't stop you from posting places, until they reach the ban phase.

Geis

I've never even posted there though

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I'll take a peek at your account. We can restrict what threads people post in by modifying your user group

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

You have a severe infraction that expires in 6 months on 5/12/2016. That will limit your access to things.

Geis

Awww okay thanks

Looks like I'm stuck with you guys :D

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Check out my gapper

The part behind it is what i use to sand my plugs and get a nice clean ground strap then blow them off with compressed air.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

But for serious I need battery help lol. I'm looking at the kinetik batteries and they list **** in watts.

If I go off the alternator rating and voltage I get right under 1400 watts. However I seriously doubt that with the alternator charging and everything on I would draw that much power. Add in that when I finally get around to changing the audio system it should be sub 1500 watts.

I'm not really worried about cranking amperage because even the smallest AGM battery should deliver enough pulse amps to turnover a 10.2:1 engine in less than 5 seconds.

The vatozone battery is like 129. I can't see paying that much for a "normal" **** battery when for the same money or 21 more dollars I can get an AGM that I can safely relocate inside the car once I get the parts together to turbocharge my shitbox.

I know that the "race car" SVTs run a 20 amp/hour battery with no issue. Granted that's just things like the Ecu, cluster, lights, wipers, and ancillary things. I'm replacing as much lighting as possible with LEDs and will likely ditch the OEM bi-xenon HIDS, high beams, and fog lights with those new CREE based bulbs (the ones with active cooling, ballasts, etc). All of this should significantly lower amperage/wattage demands from the charging system.

The audio system is just going to be 6.5" components at all 4 corners and a modest 12" sub in a sealed box. Likely a Kicker CompR 12 or something close.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Did you just ninja around my post?

Geis

Heh, I see what you did there. (yes, yes he did lmao^)

Come on man, you got like 7 cars, a house, 23 turbos and you can't choke 150 for a battery?

#wantboostbatteryfund

Geis

Quick! Let's bury it!


Jk jk