763buster2169

Ok please help if you truly know the answer to my question.. Ive read tons of forums so dont tell me this is an old post. And if you think you know and you dont,, just go away..

Im stuck in small town South Dakota with a 92 hatch b18b1 turbo and nobody to tune it unless i drive 4 hrs.
I know about standalones, chrome, safc, ETC.......... Im not an idiot i just need some solid 1,2,3 answers with no BS run around..

I have a b18b1 in a 92 hatch. I put a ebay turbo in myself.. I took the time and did it right. Also upgraded bov and wastegate. Will upgrade manifold and turbo soon. I just bought this kit cause for the parts vs buying quality it had enough to get started and ill upgrade later....
Im not broke or on a budget but there is literally no one to tune my ride with in 4 hrs of my town so buying a standalone and going to the dyno is not a luxury that i have.. OK? Sorry but there are 2 many threads on (just get this and do this and its fine,, but don't do this,, oh wait you can do that)... ****! NEED A SOLID ANSWER and please dont say, if you have money just get a standalone,,, cause i have a chipped ecu and it can be tuned so if getting fuel mods or safc outweighs towing my car 4hrs away i want to do that...

My setup,,
B18b1, 440 injectors, chipped ecu (so called base map installed), NGK 1 step colder plugs, NO VACUUM LINE CONNECTED TO INTAKE TO VALVE COVER (DOES THAT MATTER??)) 6lb boost spring, (fuel pump on order cause i read i need it but also read i dont.?.?),
CAR RUNS AND IDLES FINE.. GET ON THE GAS IT BOGS.

My question
1. Do i need a fuel pump for 6lbs of boost? Arent 440s letting in enough fuel? It would seem if im running super rich and getting to much fuel i dont need a pump.. But does that just mean the computer is letting more in for some reason? If i put 1000cc injectors shouldnt the computer still send the same amount of fuel and run fine??

2. Do i need a check valve? OK. Do i NEED this if i use a safc? Is this only a none ecu tuning mod need??? Sounds like i only need one if i dont tune the ecu.. In what case do i need this? If i go piggyback or safc or chrome when do i need this?

3. BIG QUESTION,,,,,, I BOUGHT A CHIPPED ECU, I ASKED FOR A TURBO BASE MAP..... HE SAID HE DID IT.. NOW IF IT DOES HAVE A BASE MAP WILL A CHECK VALVE OR FMU OR PUMP MAKE IT DRIVABLE?? IM NOT SURE IF IT HAS A BASE MAP BUT THE ECU IS CHIPPED... BASICALLY IDK IF DOING ANY OTHER MODS WOULD MAKE HIS BASE MAP WORK. IF THERE IS ONE OR NOT

4. Fuel regulator? Fmu? Fuel pump? Map check valve? Which ones do i need in what combination..???\

5. Go back to stock injectors??

My goal..
I have a turbo in and the ecu is chipped. If i could take it 5 mins away and get it tuned i would but i cant
.. So i want to get this drivable for a 4hr trip and i plan to use Zeitronox tuning for monitoring.. I just need a cheap drivable tune to get me to Sioux Falls so i can have it dyno tuned.. I also want all the necessary parts for them to plug in and tune it before i get there so please tell me what i need,, so check valve etc.... IF I GET A APEXI SAFC 2 WILL I BE ABLE TO DRIVE WITH MY SETUP AS IS OR WHAT ELSE DO I NEED?? SHOULD I INSTALL FUEL PUMP STILL??

PLEASE HELP! Thanks for reading my long *** post.. I want to do this right

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Seems like you haven't done much reading.

You will need to upgrade your fuel pump regardless. Your car may idle fine but once at WOT the stock fuel pump will be working way too hard. There is no way to make any adjustments unless you have a wideband on your car to monitor your AFR's.

A piggyback unit is a waste of money. You need a EMS software along with the hardware to be able to tune your obd1 ecu. Depending who you bought the chipped ecu from he could have started you off with the correct basemap if you provided him the information that he need's to build a solid basemap.

Again I would not drive it since you clearly have no clue what basemap is on there. Or if he even calibrated the correct injectors on there. If you really want to drive it to a tuning shop then get a wideband and get the correct basemap from a HT sponsor like xenocron.com

Here is the link

http://www.xenocron.com/basemap-chip...tom-p-279.html

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

My question
1. Do i need a fuel pump for 6lbs of boost? Arent 440s letting in enough fuel? It would seem if im running super rich and getting to much fuel i dont need a pump.. But does that just mean the computer is letting more in for some reason? If i put 1000cc injectors shouldnt the computer still send the same amount of fuel and run fine??
------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes you do need a fuel pump.

2. Do i need a check valve? OK. Do i NEED this if i use a safc? Is this only a none ecu tuning mod need??? Sounds like i only need one if i dont tune the ecu.. In what case do i need this? If i go piggyback or safc or chrome when do i need this?
--------------------------------------------------
You don't need a check valve. Once the ecu is properly mapped for a turbo application the stock map sensor reads up to 11 psi.

3. BIG QUESTION,,,,,, I BOUGHT A CHIPPED ECU, I ASKED FOR A TURBO BASE MAP..... HE SAID HE DID IT.. NOW IF IT DOES HAVE A BASE MAP WILL A CHECK VALVE OR FMU OR PUMP MAKE IT DRIVABLE?? IM NOT SURE IF IT HAS A BASE MAP BUT THE ECU IS CHIPPED... BASICALLY IDK IF DOING ANY OTHER MODS WOULD MAKE HIS BASE MAP WORK. IF THERE IS ONE OR NOT
--------------------------------------------
If your ecu is mapped for a turbo setup properly then you don't need a checkvalve/missing link.

4. Fuel regulator? Fmu? Fuel pump? Map check valve? Which ones do i need in what combination..???\
------------------------------------
Stock regulator, no FMU, walbro 255 lph (good for up to 550 on pump gas), no check valve or missing link


5. Go back to stock injectors??
------------------------------
No, make sure your injectors are high impedance. If they are low impedance you will require a resistor box.


Read http://www.phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html

763buster2169

Thank you that helps a lot!! I got the fuel pump on order and im planning on the zeitronix tuning to read ratios... So if i get a safc i should be fine with my setup and be able to tune it (street reliable?).. Thanks for the second post btw

kyden

do not use an safc.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

If you use a wideband oxygen sensor gauge to monitor the air fuel ratios along with a basemap chip for your application, you should be able to dial the car in with the safc.

763buster2169

Ok so why is one guy saying dont use a safc? I just want to use it to get it drive able.. Why do people say so many different things? Either it works or it doesn't.. I heard safcs advance timing but 6lbs it shouldnt matter right? Seriously, safc and add my 255 pump should work right? Im going to use a wideband from a friend to tune it.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

They are saying not to use a safc because they are assuming you are going to use an afc and a map sensor hack which wouldn't retard your ignition timing properly etc...

Relic1

SAFC and AFC have the same problem, when you play games with the ECU to change the fuel you also get the ignition setting that matches. It may be fine, it may be very bad. Low Boost you should be ok. But doing it right is always better.

To throw in another option... the 5 minute away tuner... this guy --> http://www.dkgoodrich.com/remote-tuning.htm offers a remote tuning service.
You email the datalog he tweaks the maps and sends them to you, you put them in the car and provide datalogs, etc.
Also after a couple times back and forth you'll get the basics of how to tune it properly yourself.

no I'm not connected to them in any way, I simply think it's a good alternative for people who are 4 hours away from any tuner.
Plus it's a relatively cheap education that you can turn into profit if you'd like to tune other people in your area.

crashsvg

lol..dude ... AMA HELP YOU BECAUSE I TOO LEARNED OFF MY OWN..


first off ...never NEVER never buy a chip ecu..because its more likely to do more damage than good..UNLESS it has been chiped to your exact setup on a dyno.. no two engines are the same so highly unlikely it gona do the job in yours..

second..injector difference in cc is simply put just a bigger hole . so dont expect 340cc to run like 1000cc unless u tune it. the bigger injector will flood your engine which is gonna make it bog. think of t this way ,,take a 10oz coke bottle and a 100oz coke bottle turn them upside down n release the cork for 2 second and see what happens...the 100 oz bottle will obviously put out more ..same as ur injectors..the 440 will out flow the stock n make it bog caz its outing the flame in the the cylinder... to regulate that you need to control the time the bigger injectors are left open so it does not flood the chambers..

third ..boost..telling a guy u need a ecu tuned to to 6psi is point less because a ebay turbo and a t67 at 6psi is 2 totally different ball game.boost is just pressure they key thing is VOLUME and a small turbo will build the same pressure as a big one but the volume is different...

forth.. fuel..just buy a walbro intake..its like $50.00 for one and it does the trick...


MY PERSONAL OPINION :take out the chipped ecu and put back in the stock one..retard the timing about 4* from the distributor buy a wide band and just use something that controls injector DURATION and pull fuel in the rpm where its to rich... too rich will be below 12.5 to lean will be above (if it drops between 11:5 and 12:5 its ok)......
now this will only work if you do this at wot (foot to the floor) unless the device your using is able to detect the engine load (psi)

the procedure is simple. let the engine warm up.start accelerating slowly (2-3 gear) now before boost kicks in the ecu will be in control (stock o2 sensor) so the wide band will read 14.7 or close ...now when the boost kicks in the ecu will stop reading off the o2 sensor and begin reading off the internal map which is where u get to play with..yo will notice that the car bogs as soon as boost hit thats because ts sending too much fuel ..you need to mark that point and start taking away fuel at that rpm with what ever device your using. so if boost come in at 4000rpm and the car bogs there start taking away fuel at that rpm ,,start with like -10% if it still bogs and you notice your wide bands reads 10.0 n under take away more fuel..take away until it reaches 11.5 .. i know it will be tempting to rev right out but dont do so as yet ..do this at 1000rpn intervals until you get to red line..

YOU DO NOT WANT TO BE TOO HURRY AND LET IT LEAN OUT (above 12.5) SO TAKE YOUR TIME AND IF POSSIBLE LET A FRIEND DRIVE SO YOU CAN HAVE ONE EYE ON THE ROAD AND ONE ON THE WIDEBAND!!!

after you get the af aboundt 11.5 tru the whole rmp range you can then take your time and and adjust it around 12.5 if you like...the af gauge will never read 12:5 constant so dont kick your self if it dosnt ..you just need to keep it as close to 12.5 with out going higher..
you could leave it at 12.0 to get things a little cooler inside but if your running at least 93 octane you would be fine..

hope that helps ...i gtg ....let me know if u need more help