Bad ECU?
10-30-2013, 04:28 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, ky, USA
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bad ECU?
i posted this in the hybrid section with no response...
Background:
I own a 95 civic ex coupe that was a d16z6 auto
Years ago I swapped in h22 manual that has been sleeved with wiseco pistons and eagle rods, etc.
I then installed a DIY turbo kit with an NGK AFX wideband O2 and Greddy Profec Spec-B boost controller.
Chipped p28
precision 1000cc injectors
walbro 255lb hiflow fuel pump
aem fuel rail and aem fpr
The car sat for years as I was tired of working on it, lost patience, money, etc.
Current Status:
Reinvigorated I have been able to get the car to start and idle!
The car will start and idle and I would like to begin tuning EXCEPT it is running extremely rich according to my wideband O2 sensor.
While idling I can't the AFR to go past 9.5-10.5 and the FPR won't bump the pressure past 30psi (I've replaced the diaphragm and orifice with the rebuild kit)
Loaded p28 with ostrich using crome and base h22 turbo rom I found online
boost at idle is not existant (new to turbo so i'm not sure what is normal).
My conclusion/and thought process:
Check engine light is on and when I jump the service connector it doesn't retrieve any codes. I then tried resetting codes by pulling ECU fuse and it did nothing. I think my fuel psi is low and AFR is high due to the ECU putting the car in limp mode and my 1000cc injectors are dumping any and all fuel possible into the cyliders causing it to run rich.
Are you all thinking my ECU is bad causing the limp mode or should a car not be running at all if the ECU is bad?
Any help here is appreciated - I would prefer not to buy a new ecu if it can be avoided.
Background:
I own a 95 civic ex coupe that was a d16z6 auto
Years ago I swapped in h22 manual that has been sleeved with wiseco pistons and eagle rods, etc.
I then installed a DIY turbo kit with an NGK AFX wideband O2 and Greddy Profec Spec-B boost controller.
Chipped p28
precision 1000cc injectors
walbro 255lb hiflow fuel pump
aem fuel rail and aem fpr
The car sat for years as I was tired of working on it, lost patience, money, etc.
Current Status:
Reinvigorated I have been able to get the car to start and idle!
The car will start and idle and I would like to begin tuning EXCEPT it is running extremely rich according to my wideband O2 sensor.
While idling I can't the AFR to go past 9.5-10.5 and the FPR won't bump the pressure past 30psi (I've replaced the diaphragm and orifice with the rebuild kit)
Loaded p28 with ostrich using crome and base h22 turbo rom I found online
boost at idle is not existant (new to turbo so i'm not sure what is normal).
My conclusion/and thought process:
Check engine light is on and when I jump the service connector it doesn't retrieve any codes. I then tried resetting codes by pulling ECU fuse and it did nothing. I think my fuel psi is low and AFR is high due to the ECU putting the car in limp mode and my 1000cc injectors are dumping any and all fuel possible into the cyliders causing it to run rich.
Are you all thinking my ECU is bad causing the limp mode or should a car not be running at all if the ECU is bad?
Any help here is appreciated - I would prefer not to buy a new ecu if it can be avoided.
10-30-2013, 08:09 PM
#2
iTrader: (2)
Re: Bad ECU?
Boost at idle isn't going to happen unless you have some kind of ignition cut or anti lag condition.
Your fuel pressure has nothing to do with the ecu, the ecu doesn't control fuel pressure.
Your fuel pressure should be around 42-50 psi.
If your check engine light is on and you jump the service connector and the check engine light stays on solid, there is an issue with the ecu or chip etc.
If your check engine light is not on and you jump the service connector the check engine light will stay on solid as you are throwing no codes.
Concerning the other issues you are having, they could be related to anything from tuning to throwing a code for something like an IAT sensor etc.
Your fuel pressure has nothing to do with the ecu, the ecu doesn't control fuel pressure.
Your fuel pressure should be around 42-50 psi.
If your check engine light is on and you jump the service connector and the check engine light stays on solid, there is an issue with the ecu or chip etc.
If your check engine light is not on and you jump the service connector the check engine light will stay on solid as you are throwing no codes.
Concerning the other issues you are having, they could be related to anything from tuning to throwing a code for something like an IAT sensor etc.
10-31-2013, 12:12 AM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Bad ECU?
fuel pressure needs to be set with the fuel pump running and the vacuum hose removed from the fpr.
sounds like you need to do an aweful lot more research about tuning.
if you have crome, you shouldn't need to jump the service connector, as you should be able to datalog, where you're able to just click the cel in the datalog and it'll tell you the code[s]. if you're using the free version of crome to try and tune your car, well, you shouldn't be tuning it.
sounds to me like you just need to get fuel pressure set properly, then find yourself an actual tuner and let them work their magic.
whatever basemap you found will NOT work on your car. you might as well stop trying right now, as the more you try to change to get it to idle correctly, the more you're screwing up the rest of the map.
boost only occurs when you get heavy on the gas pedal. manifold pressure in a turbo car will be identical to manifold in an n/a car at idle and at light throttle
sounds like you need to do an aweful lot more research about tuning.
if you have crome, you shouldn't need to jump the service connector, as you should be able to datalog, where you're able to just click the cel in the datalog and it'll tell you the code[s]. if you're using the free version of crome to try and tune your car, well, you shouldn't be tuning it.
sounds to me like you just need to get fuel pressure set properly, then find yourself an actual tuner and let them work their magic.
whatever basemap you found will NOT work on your car. you might as well stop trying right now, as the more you try to change to get it to idle correctly, the more you're screwing up the rest of the map.
boost only occurs when you get heavy on the gas pedal. manifold pressure in a turbo car will be identical to manifold in an n/a car at idle and at light throttle
10-31-2013, 05:50 AM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, ky, USA
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Bad ECU?
Ok thanks everyone
Thanks! I was hoping you would chime in. That is what I thought re boost pressures at idle.
I know fuel pressure has nothing to do with the ECU I am thinking it has to do with the limp mode, and my 1000cc injectors dumping everything it can into the engine. Maybe I am way off here though...?
Check engine light is always on regardless of jumping connector or not. = BAD ECU?
Procedure: turned off car, jumped pin, turned key to on and no flash. Pulled fuse, waited 15 mins, and tried again, same result, code didn't clear.
IACT and Knock sensor are both disabled. I do have my wideband's lowband output wired into the stock o2 harness. Would this cause the issue? Do I need to disable the narrowband?
Knock Sensor and IACT both are disabled in crome
that is what I thought re the boost @ idle.
I tried removing the vaccum line and car running and no change in pressure but I'll try it again to make sure I'm following that procedure.
It is free version as i don't have the cn2 port pinned so I felt it wasn't worth it. I have a hulog just haven't pinned it yet. Maybe this is what I should do next?
i think this is where i got the map from:
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=17494
I don't have a spare laying around and I don't have any friends in the "scene"
I know I have a lot to learn regarding tuning, and I don't expect to get it perfect. My goal was to get it running ok @ idle and maybe driving around town with low RPM/load/boost so that I can get it to someone to tune it.
I guess my first quetion will help me understand the issue better:
Will a car with a bad ECU still run? And if so is it in limp mode?
If the answer is "no" then there is a different issue.
If the answer is "yes" then a new ECU is in order. Correct?
Boost at idle isn't going to happen unless you have some kind of ignition cut or anti lag condition.
Your fuel pressure has nothing to do with the ecu, the ecu doesn't control fuel pressure.
Your fuel pressure should be around 42-50 psi.
If your check engine light is on and you jump the service connector and the check engine light stays on solid, there is an issue with the ecu or chip etc.
If your check engine light is not on and you jump the service connector the check engine light will stay on solid as you are throwing no codes.
Concerning the other issues you are having, they could be related to anything from tuning to throwing a code for something like an IAT sensor etc.
Your fuel pressure has nothing to do with the ecu, the ecu doesn't control fuel pressure.
Your fuel pressure should be around 42-50 psi.
If your check engine light is on and you jump the service connector and the check engine light stays on solid, there is an issue with the ecu or chip etc.
If your check engine light is not on and you jump the service connector the check engine light will stay on solid as you are throwing no codes.
Concerning the other issues you are having, they could be related to anything from tuning to throwing a code for something like an IAT sensor etc.
I know fuel pressure has nothing to do with the ECU I am thinking it has to do with the limp mode, and my 1000cc injectors dumping everything it can into the engine. Maybe I am way off here though...?
Check engine light is always on regardless of jumping connector or not. = BAD ECU?
Procedure: turned off car, jumped pin, turned key to on and no flash. Pulled fuse, waited 15 mins, and tried again, same result, code didn't clear.
IACT and Knock sensor are both disabled. I do have my wideband's lowband output wired into the stock o2 harness. Would this cause the issue? Do I need to disable the narrowband?
fuel pressure needs to be set with the fuel pump running and the vacuum hose removed from the fpr.
sounds like you need to do an aweful lot more research about tuning.
if you have crome, you shouldn't need to jump the service connector, as you should be able to datalog, where you're able to just click the cel in the datalog and it'll tell you the code[s]. if you're using the free version of crome to try and tune your car, well, you shouldn't be tuning it.
sounds to me like you just need to get fuel pressure set properly, then find yourself an actual tuner and let them work their magic.
whatever basemap you found will NOT work on your car. you might as well stop trying right now, as the more you try to change to get it to idle correctly, the more you're screwing up the rest of the map.
boost only occurs when you get heavy on the gas pedal. manifold pressure in a turbo car will be identical to manifold in an n/a car at idle and at light throttle
sounds like you need to do an aweful lot more research about tuning.
if you have crome, you shouldn't need to jump the service connector, as you should be able to datalog, where you're able to just click the cel in the datalog and it'll tell you the code[s]. if you're using the free version of crome to try and tune your car, well, you shouldn't be tuning it.
sounds to me like you just need to get fuel pressure set properly, then find yourself an actual tuner and let them work their magic.
whatever basemap you found will NOT work on your car. you might as well stop trying right now, as the more you try to change to get it to idle correctly, the more you're screwing up the rest of the map.
boost only occurs when you get heavy on the gas pedal. manifold pressure in a turbo car will be identical to manifold in an n/a car at idle and at light throttle
I tried removing the vaccum line and car running and no change in pressure but I'll try it again to make sure I'm following that procedure.
It is free version as i don't have the cn2 port pinned so I felt it wasn't worth it. I have a hulog just haven't pinned it yet. Maybe this is what I should do next?
i think this is where i got the map from:
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=17494
I don't have a spare laying around and I don't have any friends in the "scene"
I know I have a lot to learn regarding tuning, and I don't expect to get it perfect. My goal was to get it running ok @ idle and maybe driving around town with low RPM/load/boost so that I can get it to someone to tune it.
I guess my first quetion will help me understand the issue better:
Will a car with a bad ECU still run? And if so is it in limp mode?
If the answer is "no" then there is a different issue.
If the answer is "yes" then a new ECU is in order. Correct?
10-31-2013, 09:24 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Bad ECU?
if you are using your wideband's narrowband signal wire to feed the ecu, you need to make sure the stock o2 sensor is NOT plugged in, and you need to disable the o2 heater circuit in crome.
add the cn2 header, and get crome pro. by not datalogging, you have absolutely no idea what you're changing, you are simply guessing. you need to be able to datalog to see what parameters the engine is under to know specifically what to change and by how much.
add the cn2 header, and get crome pro. by not datalogging, you have absolutely no idea what you're changing, you are simply guessing. you need to be able to datalog to see what parameters the engine is under to know specifically what to change and by how much.
Trending Topics
10-31-2013, 10:14 AM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, ky, USA
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Bad ECU?
if you are using your wideband's narrowband signal wire to feed the ecu, you need to make sure the stock o2 sensor is NOT plugged in, and you need to disable the o2 heater circuit in crome.
add the cn2 header, and get crome pro. by not datalogging, you have absolutely no idea what you're changing, you are simply guessing. you need to be able to datalog to see what parameters the engine is under to know specifically what to change and by how much.
add the cn2 header, and get crome pro. by not datalogging, you have absolutely no idea what you're changing, you are simply guessing. you need to be able to datalog to see what parameters the engine is under to know specifically what to change and by how much.
I already have the stuff to chip the cn2 port so i'll see what i can do with that this weekend as well.
11-01-2013, 05:48 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, ky, USA
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Bad ECU?
Ok so I think I may have had a Homer Simpson moment. When I ordered my Ostrich years ago it came with a 28pin riser that one of the pins broke off of. I removed this before installing in my car and just installed it directly from the 28pin connector on the cable to the ECU (not using the riser). I think when I hooked up the ostrich then closed the top of the ecu, it partly pulled that cable's connector out of the socket. The cable's pins are different than the riser's were and not as snug.
I'm going to try it again tomorrow night, double check to make sure it is connected correctly and see what results I get.
Oh - I also double checked my MAP sensor wiring just to be sure.
Thanks!
I'm going to try it again tomorrow night, double check to make sure it is connected correctly and see what results I get.
Oh - I also double checked my MAP sensor wiring just to be sure.
Thanks!
11-02-2013, 08:39 AM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Louisville, ky, USA
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
turboH22Aakkord
Forced Induction
12
09-14-2005 09:18 AM