When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Lastly.............. that is a cute intercooler and all......but don't you think you need more area for air to air???? This has to get hot???? Issue solved??? lol jk
I know your setup forward facing manifold would make a big deal on fixing... have to shove it all on passenger side...
You can still run a huge intercooler and be stealthy
Lol I thought it was going to be a issue but temps have not been a issue. The one time I measured it on the Dyno, turbo side was 130* other side of ic was about 87-97* so even tho it's small length wise it's 4.5" thick. I'm gonna break it down over the holiday to see what's up. But as of now it looks fine so who knows yet lol
Does anybody know if a h22 block is the same as a f22a? Basically so I can put my rods and new sleeves maybe new Pistons as well. But will the head bolt up and it all work?
Does anybody know if a h22 block is the same as a f22a? Basically so I can put my rods and new sleeves maybe new Pistons as well. But will the head bolt up and it all work?
^^ nope, have you thought about a g22 conversion ?
F22 bottom end with a H22 to end = Frankenstein G22 build = unreliable.
I read through everything and definitely something not correct with the piston/head setup. Clearly the gasket/mounting surfaces/clearances are incorrect as the coolant is spraying out the block and not in between the pistons where the weakest part is. This almost sounds like a coolant flow issue.
Sorry I have no real answers. I think there is something else going on here like a blockage in coolant passages causing the coolant to find another path.
F22 bottom end with a H22 to end = Frankenstein G22 build = unreliable.
I read through everything and definitely something not correct with the piston/head setup. Clearly the gasket/mounting surfaces/clearances are incorrect as the coolant is spraying out the block and not in between the pistons where the weakest part is. This almost sounds like a coolant flow issue.
Sorry I have no real answers. I think there is something else going on here like a blockage in coolant passages causing the coolant to find another path.
Well coolant only blew cause compression was leaking under boost into the cooling system m. Then it would find the weakest leak hose wise and boom.
Keep it all F22A and start over again if that is what your trying to do with a new block? Use same head? Or new head? We are talking about $100 or less at a decent no rip off auto wreckers for a longblock... but that would be the least of your worries... machining cost etc etc....
Keep it all F22A and start over again if that is what your trying to do with a new block? Use same head?
Yeah new block new sleeves try and reuse the Pistons if I can and same head. There is a **** ton of work done in this head so I hope it's still fine. I was just wondering about using the h22 block only cause I have one here but they don't look the same. I want to stay true to the f22a and crank out 1000hp on this build
Yea don't mess with the H22 short has to be the 92-95 50mm mains block plus it has 87mm sleeves in might be some **** to get 85mm to work... H22A1 is closed deck block lot more work.... Darton sleeves once taken out and reinstalled into another motor if they aren't damaged when taking out it seems no matter what will need to step your pistons size up bore and hone time and new pistons. Can't reuse pistons. From installing the bore will be not identical again.... Straight from the horses mouth-Darton.
F22 bottom end with a H22 to end = Frankenstein G22 build = unreliable.
I read through everything and definitely something not correct with the piston/head setup. Clearly the gasket/mounting surfaces/clearances are incorrect as the coolant is spraying out the block and not in between the pistons where the weakest part is. This almost sounds like a coolant flow issue.
Sorry I have no real answers. I think there is something else going on here like a blockage in coolant passages causing the coolant to find another path.
That's like a bandaid in my eyes lol when it says proven to 800hp well that's not enough for my goal of 1000 to the wheels, which I know I can make with a bigger fuel pump and return setup
CSS.... is like a bandaid using stock sleeves...and no way near what a darton MID is let alone a dry sleeve..... pretty much best in the industry. I would just reuse the darton MIDs and go 86mm custom pistons. I am not sure if I would downsize the build and go with a dry sleeve or replacement sleeve with an open deck... many have done it with lots of power 700+hp.... however not having that extra strength of a wet top sleeve that closes the deck off for strength...
F20B is 55mm mains not 50mm like F22A... F20B rods are not as wide like the rest of the H/F clan...
If you went F20B just for bore size which is 85mm... you would need to check if the OBD2 F22B 94+ Accord stuff is 55mm main crank... If so then yes you could go DOHC Vtec with the F20B... F20B has normal sleeves like Accord. So could bore and hone it for your 85.5mm pistons...
So in theory if the 94+ cranks are 55mm F22B mains... could make a F20B to a 2.3.L. Use your F22 Custom Rods and Pistons... however your weak point would be the sleeves but you could get it driving and DOHC VTEC now... If you went F20B you want the Manual Version of the F20B most will say in auction if Auto or Manual. Manuals have Type S/Euro R cams... much better cam... but manual versions usually cost a couple hundo's more. F20B's usually run as low as $500-$900
Sorry my last theory is squashed.... all F22A/B motors use 50mm mains so that will not work...
Only way to keep your custom rods with the F20B with a 95mm stroke.... is with the newer H23A Vtec Blue Top motors... which is what I play with... they are 95mm stroke and 55mm mains... However finding a crank for sale without purchasing a Longblock which are about $900 is like finding a needle in a hae stack... wont happen...
However... if you get the H23A Vtec Blue Top motor you could possibly put the MID's in there... I would check with Darton if the parts are the same as OBD2 H22 motors but are just much smaller bore... which I would think they are innerchangable... H23A Vtec Blue Top has the FRM cylinders like normal H22 so only way to run forged pistons is sleeves...
So to update this build thread. Got the engine back and almost all in. Going to redo the exhaust manifold so it's better flowing and tuck the turbo inside the bay. Hopefully the tuning will begin in a few weeks! The build on the block was a f22b block with dry Rs machine sleeves that are good for 900+ hp all day long, new Aries 10.5:1 Pistons same crower rods, fully balanced with a griddle. It Is a stepped deck block so no orings required. Hopefully she runs well!
11-24-2015, 11:32 AM
Re: Sleeper accord build and questions
