Jun91hatch

So after much thinking and LOTS AND LOTS of research ive decided to just go full race with my build. With that being said i have many questions that need answers. Im going to boost the lsvtec. I want 9.8:1 cp pistons so the car isnt excessively slow out of boost. Im getting a ferrea valve train 6000 series. Im just not sure of what cams? I was looking at the s2p2 but those ive seen mainly for high compression builds. Would it work with a turbo build too? If not what cams then? What injector size would i need to get for 800-900hp? I got the block sleeved and wasnt sure if i should bore them to 84mm or keep it 81mm? As well as the turbo. Will a precision 6262 work for 800-900hp? Im gonna be putting this in a 91 civic hatch. No i dont want an eg body bcuz everyone has one. Id rather spend a little bit more and be different than have the same thing as everyone else. Anyways will i need to get a different tranny to hold the power or will a stock b17 trans work? Axles i would assume to use the dss 5.9 or is that overkill? Thank you in advance for all your help. Im in no rush to build the car but i want to make sure im doing stuff right. Again thank you

turbo8832

81mm will not see 900hp nor will a 6262 I would also up the 9:8:1

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

6266 - Will get you in the 800's - 900 you will want maybe a 6466
Skunk2 Pro 1's are pretty good, I like them.
I would go with 84mm bore
I would go ID 2000 Injectors and a nice fuel system will be needed
Axles I run DSS 2.9's and they have been good for 800whp but if you are planning on 900 or more 5.9's will be good.
Stock b17 trans at 800 or 900 won't last. You can get away with doing a Liberty Face Plate on the gears which will get you more passes than just stock gears but they will still break. I would suggest going with a G-Force gear set. They utilize upper and lower cuffs like how PPG used to use and you also get a welded bell housing for extra strength.

Jun91hatch

Thank you so much for the info. I was thinking of doing the 84mm but wasnt 100% sure about it. But now my question is. My darton sleeves are 81mm.... Can i just bore it or will i need to get new sleeves? Will a block girdle need to be used since im using the ls block or i will be ok with it the way it is? Im most likely at this point gonna need a standalone ems with my set up im assuming or can i just stick with my chipped p28? (Thats a really stupid question but ima ask anyways lol) my fuel system... Can i run twin bosch 044 woth aeromotive fuel regulator or will i need the full aeromotive system? Like i said before i have a **** load of questions. And if i up my cr from 9.8:1 then what would i got with? 10.5:1 or even higher than that

extremeracer

The Darton sleeves are made to be able to run a bigger bore, safe up to 84.5mm on turbo motors, so you can simply have an engineering shop take the bore to 84mm for your new pistons. I added the complete OEM B18C main cap girdle, pickup, windage tray and sump to my LS block for peace of mind - but an engineering shop needs to line hone the main caps if you do this to get clearances back to spec.

If you already have the chipped P28 go with Hondata S300 v3 and think about adding the traction control and CPR modules.

Compression depends on your fuel used - if you only going to be running E85/E98 or proper race gas then don't go lower than 10:1. if you going to be running dual fuel (pump and E85) setup then the 9.7:1 piston is a good compromise. Some people run 11:1 turbo pistons on E fuels.

Twin 044's should work if running upgraded fuel lines

B20VtecVillain

+1 on just using S300 if you already have a chipped ECU, it is very capable software. I also agree with adding the coil pack module though as the stock Honda ignition seems to start lacking about the 500-600hp mark. As for turbo selection, even with 84mm bore and 10:1 CR I don't see a 6262 getting to 900 it that's really your goal. Something slightly bigger will be needed and especially since it's a race only car street manners wont really matter. S2Pro2 cams work great on high comp all motor builds, but I haven't personally boosted on them, right now I am running my boosted B20V (GTX3076) and making ~450whp on S2Pro1s with an amazing power curve for the street and what the setup is. Lastly, I might reccomend a better valve package than the Ferrea you mentioned. They are a great upgrade from stock but still don't have the heat dissipation properties I would reccomend for a super high heat turbo engine like what you will have. They are better suited to a turbo street car or all motor build that will not see the extreme temps a high HP turbo car does. Best of luck to you!

Jun91hatch

Its good to see people actually helping than downing me. I appreciate it. So i researched some more (yes i actually research alot lol) and i found that the ferrea competition plus valves are best for heat dissipation and boost applications. So im gonna go with those. Now im still confused about what cams tho. Ive seen many s2pro1's on 400-600whp builds but not over that. So what would i need? Will they still work? Ill probably be running e85 most of the time bcuz its not really gonna be a street car but ill take it out on the weekends to the races and drive it there. So 10:1 or higher sounds good. And my fuel lines would be -8an feed and -6an return or -10an feed and -8an return?

B20VtecVillain

If I were building my motor for an all out high hp goal personally I would contact a reputable Honda engine builder and get a set of cams custom ground for your exact setup. There's no off the shelf option that will match the overall performance of a custom grind Tailer made for your setup. As far as the Skunk2s go, in running Pro1s right now in a 12:1 B20v (stock stroke, stock sleeve, 84.5mm CP Pistons, Manley I beams, stock B20z crank balanced, 4Piston CNC B16 head with Supertech Valvetrain, Ported Ultra ManiFold, aforementioned Sk2Pro1s. GTX3076R with Full Race ProStreet manifold, 3.0" downpipe/3" Thermal exhaust. Hondata S300 tuned. 450whp/339tq on 93 Shell)
They give a great power curve for this setup and it pulls super hard with minimal lag. Before the turbo kit, I was making ~235whp/175tq with the same engine on pump gas and driving it daily all the time. That was with SK2Tuner2 cams though.

B20VtecVillain

I should also mention, I have been running 93 Shell pump gasoline with "Race Gas" additive with much success for a while now. This engine has been alive for nearly 20,000 miles and 4 years now, raced countless times on the street and strip and no problems. I had initially tuned on E-85, but with only one station within 30 miles to my house providing it
(and even then only have 1 two hose pump for it) I looked for an affordable alternative and have definately found it in using high quality 93 octane E10 gasoline (Shell,Sunocco, BP) and the "Race Gas" additive.

phaphon

How much boost are you running ?

B20VtecVillain

Peak hold is around 13.5-14psi

underrated

iTrader: (3)

Which "race gas" additive are you using?

B20VtecVillain

It's just Called "Race Gas" lol. I order it from Jegs. $20 for 32 oz cans. I mix 3oz to each gallon of 93 pump and have never seen detonation on quality tunes even with my high comp.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I like and run skunk2 pro 1's with their cam gears and LMA's. They are a good cam and they idle pretty well too. I remember when I was running Type R cams back when I was on a smaller turbo I made 715whp at 30PSI. Once I moved over to Pro 1's I made the same power at 24 PSI. However I maxed the turbo out so there wasn't a huge chance to see what I could do.

I also run the Full Ferrea setup with the competition plus valves and those are a great option in my opinion.

Jun91hatch

What are your opinions on gsc cams? Ive seen their potential and their just what i want. The gsc turbo t1 cams are also just about what i would like to pay for cams. And i called up a honda builder around here in florida (thats where i live) and he said ill pay alot to get cams ground specifically for my build. And if the case is gsc cams are good then what springs and retainers would i use? Ive seen supertech 100lbs drag only springs and ti retainers for 450 bucks.

sweetfwdthunder

iTrader: (2)

The GSC cams have had pretty good results for people that were able to get them. I tried to order some a while back and ended up getting put on a waiting list..i gave up after a few months and went with DDTech.

Jun91hatch

Ok good to know. What size fuel lines would i need? -8an feed and -6an return or -10an feed and -8an return?

B20VtecVillain

Was this a long time ago you tried to get them? We haven't had any trouble getting them for customers, just ordered a set of the GSC T1s for a customers turbo GSR a few weeks ago.
Ended up being like $560 shipped

DDTECH

As far as i know, they were having alot of core supply issues, dont quote me, just what i heard.
GSCs are a very nice profile and run very well, the guys who were able to get them have had nice results, the lopey idle you'll get is from un-staggered primaries, not just those camshafts. A hand full of companies dont stagger primaries, including myself.

Jun91hatch

I was looking around for intake manifolds and was going to get skunk2 ultra series. But then i noticed for about 75 dollars more i can go with itb's and just get an enclosed box or even make one (i have a friend that welds aluminum). Can i use itb's and boost? The itb's i saw were obx. Ive read and seen many good results from them.

B20VtecVillain

I don't know specifically about their ITBs, but in general OBX isn't all that. Mainstream performance products basically, nothing fantastic. As for the ITBs and boost, I would think tuning for a setup like that would be very tricky. I'm sure anything can be done though with enough time and money.

B20VtecVillain

Also, I'm not too well versed in independent throttle bodies, and have never built an ITB setup, but I would also imagine you would either need to bridge the MAP sensor to each TB or switch to a custom MAF type of setup. This may not be the case as I'm just thinking out loud here, but I don't see sticking a 3bar MAP or whatever your using in one location metering properly for a boosted ITB setup.

Jun91hatch

No ive read and seen that you would need to get vaccum lines to each individual tb and then link it to the map sensor that way if i read correctly. Or something to that effect.

typerturbo29

iTrader: (1)

Just had my car tuned and made 800whp with pro1s they work pretty well.

98vtec

Running a map sensor requires a reservoir for the map sensor to read from with a vacuum source from each runner. This reservoir needs to be big enough so the reading is accurate and stable.