AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

So I have been hearing all these good stories and seeing great results coming from the use of Strange Engineering Coilovers. So after much research, web searches, and trying to find threads on Honda Tech for Strange Engineering I figured it was time to bit the bullet and get my own set.

Now over the past few months I have purchased and installed the KS rear trailing arm kit, purchased an EG manual sub frame and brand new rack. I also purchased a set of Kingpin Machine Compliance bushings; Hard Race spherical bearing FLCA arms and a MAKK Trans brace kit. I figured the Strange Engineering Coilovers would finish off the suspension very well.

The first thing I did was found the coilovers on Strange Engineering’s website, made sure I had the right part number which was easy since they only offer two part numbers. One part number for the front and rear coilovers, they do not sell a bunch of part number coilovers for different models. These are supposed to fit EG, DC or EK so I figured I was good to go. The only thing with Strange Engineering is that you have to buy springs separately and you must weigh your car in order to get the right spring rate.

According to their site for the rear you need the ID 2.5 12 inch spring and the front requires the ID 2.5 10 inch spring. Now time to order, I ordered these parts from Summit because they are the same price as Strange Engineering but with Summit you have no shipping fees with parts over 100 dollars. The only problem with my order is I wanted a 750 pound spring rate for the front which both Strange Engineering and Summit did not carry. I was told I could go through their supplier Hypercoil, only problem with them is they were out of stock. So I found some on Amazon and ordered them.

Now let’s begin on the problems encountered with these coilovers from a picture illustration and a HOW TO FIX.


In the first two pictures you will see my HR coilovers and my new Strang Engineering Coilvers. You will see that the HR coils have a stud coming up through the top hat and how Strange Engineering uses a bolt threaded downwards on the top hat which is a big problem. SEE BELOW..





This is not going to work because the spring is supposed to be flush with the top hat. If I use the supplied hardware the bolt will hit right into the spring and the spring will rest on top of the bolt which we don't want.



The fix I was able to come up with to solve this problem was to buy a stud to replace their bolt.. Now I bought this stud from ACE but I forgot the exact size for the stud.



Once you install the stud and thread it down you will see that it also sticks out. What I did was get a grinder and cut these so they sit flush.





So once these have been cut flush the next step in the process is to get some lock tight red and spread it on the new studs to get them into place and setup.



Once you have the threadlocker on the next thing I did was bought a black epoxy to spray the top hats to spray over the exposed metal. Now I sprayed a couple of coats and left these top hats to sit for 24 hours that way the threadlocker could cure and the paint can dry.





Once everything is dry you can assemble the top hats back on and can see how the top hats now fit, they have a stud that is usable.





So in order for the top hats to work here is a list of parts you will need to make this happen.
8 studs
4 two packs of the Heavy Steel Bushings/Spacers 3/8x3/4x1/8
and 8 nylon lock nuts
threadlocker red
Grinder
Black Epoxy



Now onto the next problem that only effects the rear shocks. So the next problem I found with the Strange Coils were the rear shock forks. They had a huge cap in between them and in order for these to be properly spaced and even I had to purchase more parts.

You will need to buy
2 Grade 8 Hex Cap 3/8-16X3-1/2 bolt to replace the factory Rear Shock Fork LCA bolt
You will need two 10mm Flat Spacers
2 packs of two 3/8x3/4x1/4 Heavy Steel Bushing/Spacers

It will look like so..





The shock in with the flush mounted studs..





Here is the finished product.. I still have to mount the front shocks and hopefully everything fits, if not I will add to this thread..

MARC P

great write up, but you could of gone to hardware store like I did and bought a shorter bolt.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I thought about doing that but was worried that the bolt would vibrate loose. If I would have used thread locker on the bolt and needed to take it out at a later date I don't want the hassle of trying to break the bolt loose.
I am just surprised that they didn't think about this when designing them.

E Town DSM

If you order your strange shocks and springs from NRG Tech. Tom supplies you with the correct bolts for the install as well as the correct springs.

Zubaltec

iTrader: (1)

I just used washers with the supplied bolts to keep the bolt from touching the spring. On the rear - These shocks are made for EG/DC, so its normal to have to add those spacers for your EK.. Good info to pass on though.

Boosted_01 R

That one way. I would have measured the stud and cut it not assembled... Red Loctite is overkill personally, Blue would look fine... looks good though

wickedEG

That's what I did and they went right in no extra work.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Good to know that NRG sells them with the proper stuff. It's to late for me but I wanted to pass on some information for anyone who is ordering these in the future.

h22apwrd95

iTrader: (1)

Is the front height issue now solved? Was reading through some of the threads from 2005-08, and a lot of people had issues with the fronts being too short overall.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I am not seeing any issues with the front, I mean I can lower it pretty good if I wanted and I can raise it pretty high.

So the height is good for me in the front, I just made sure to use the spring heights that Strange had on their site. ID 2.5 12 inch for the rear and ID 2.5 10 inch for the front and buy the spring rate based on the weight of the car or whatever you feel you need.

bigTom

That's part of the issue... the 12" and 10" springs are too long... you can barely install them with the spring purches as low as they can go which prevents you from being able to adjust the height... a 10" is needed for the rear and an 8" for the front... on rare occasion a 10" would be feasible for the front depending on spring rate and application but more often than not an 8" is the ticket!

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

On the front I have 13 threads left till it would touch the bottom so the fronts are totally fine. The rears I have about 5 threads left till the bottom, so the rear spring may be a bit long and a 10 would probably give you more adjustment. However I'm not trying to slam the car so my height with the 12 and 10 works fine.

h22apwrd95

iTrader: (1)

Has Strange Engineering possibly changed the overall strut body height due to them being short? Worst case, I can always have Rosko Racing machine me some different tophats, but I would rather just make sure they are going to be tall enough.

AZ Civic, are you on a 3 piece front, or stock fenders? How much clearance do you have over your 24.5's?

Almtrhb

iTrader: (3)

KS rear, strange suspension... And Lenso's come on... Joe has a set of welds im sure he would sell you... Besides that your car is clean..

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have the Exospeed Front End and the 24.5's are perfect.

Let's not forget the EG sub conversion with Sperical FLCA's and Kingping Compliance bushing LOL..
I have a list of things that are just getting checked off one by one and getting some Welds is next on the list. I think I will start off with at least getting the Welds for the fronts and work my way back getting Welds for the rear.

h22apwrd95

iTrader: (1)

If you are on Lenso's up front, the wide front end helps clear them. Can sit lower than I will be able to on a stock front end. Worst case, I have to get Rosko to make me some spacers for now. Awesome, thanks for the help AZ.