Tippyman

Whatever stock d seried axle dimensions are lol.
Makes like 10-11 psi off the line. I had a bunch of pressure in the slicks trying to get it to spin and it didn't even try.

scottdh20

I never broke a set of axles...matter of fact mine had ~200 passes, 7 or 8 lapping days, countless street hits, burnouts and highway pulls

d16 every thing from n/a to holslut at 22psi

preload...
preload...
preload...

when staging (I liked to stage early)
-do a moderate burnout, not a huge smoker, just enough to get some heat
- pull up to one light...then inch forward and stop before the second set of staging lights lite up
- put it in first gear
- rip up the e-brake and hold the button....and I mean hold that ****** tight
- wait till your competitor stages both lights
- rev up to your limiter/launch control/ anti-lag
- slip the clutch ever so slightly to pull you into the last yellow....keep that balance on the clutch where it wants to grab but don't let it just yet
- drop the e-brake on the last yellow and feather the clutch out just a hair

Tippyman

xohcef

It's going to be the diff.

DDTECH

I've gotten probably 30-40 nitrous passes on stock autozone axles. Clutch recently took a ****.

I'm coming out the hole on all of it, preloading, properly, i'm not dumping the clutch, but slipping it.. I've recently had Comp clutch come on board as a sponsor so i just installed their Twin Disc and hoping to get some better times, after 3-4 passes the clutch just wouldn't allow me to go in gear.

Nitrous hits very hard, out the hole, i'd have a hard time seeing why i can't break axles, but i seem to be doing it right. I think its the way you're leaving.

0driveshaftshop

Guys keep in mind the D series spline is allot smaller then the B series, we recently changed the material going to the diff to 300m and the center is also larger.

Tippyman

I've already got a price quote from you a couple days ago. Monday expect an order.

PyroProblem

Might have missed it but WHERE are the axles breaking everytime?

Put a go pro on the car and record what the front wheels are doing (I still suspect wheel hop) or have a friend watch really closely.

Letting the clutch out a tad bit slower might help too. Shock loading/unloading is what breaks drivetrain IMO.

Tippyman

The break point varies, but the last two were at the axle seal.

Let's pretend it is wheelhop. What is making it hop?! There is literally no rubber in the front end, at all.

PyroProblem

Hard to say if it is wheel hop without some kind of video. Sometimes you can feel it. More so on street tires though. Do you feel any wheel hop?Like several others have said. Auto parts stores axles vs OEM Honda axles. OEM wins again.

Tippyman

All I feel is a complete lack of movement in the forward direction, lol. Followed by anger and a desire to burn **** down.

PyroProblem

Yeah, sounds like the axles just aren't able to hold the torque. Its breaking at the weakest point semi-consistently. I assume at the radius of the spline and the joint. No wheel hop felt. Small D series splines....Axle upgrade time!

PyroProblem

It could always be worse. At least you're not shearing splines inside the differential!

ohsnapzafingcu

iTrader: (2)

how are your engine mounts?

Skip01

Everyone saying they running stock OEM axles are the B-Series guys....this is D-series, totally different animals.

I mighta missed it but are they oems or autoparts store?

Tippyman

Well, wasn't trying to name any names, but, they were OEM, then Napa, then Insane Shafts.

Got a couple of passes on oem/Napa, then broke two napa. Bought some Insane Shafts 1000 hp axles, and broke a stub. Figured I must be wheel hopping, so I re-did everything in the front end. Broke another axle. Returned the Insane Shafts and bought some DSS axles. Hopefully they hold up.

We'll see next season I suppose.

Skip01

Ahhh got ya....man, keep us updated, my D build is getting dynoed next Sat and im eager to try and get some track time

xohcef

I made countless passes at 575hp on STOCK D axles. The only issues I had with the long axle came after the car made 600 and the twin disc was required. Then I couldn't keep an axle in the drivers side. Once again this wasn't even from the power the car made, it was from the twin disc taking its frustration out on the weakest link.

Tippyman

So what did you do?

xohcef

Put a B series tranny in it. I think at your power level and clutch choice you shouldn't be having any problems though. Who assembled your trans with that diff originally?

xohcef

Actually, I was assuming it is a single disc clutch, sorry. Which one is actually in there?

EDIT: if it is a twin then, I know you're sick of hearing this but you're not pre loading enough. When I started getting mine figured out, (before I threw in the towel and went B) I would have to load it up so hard that even with the rear wheels locked it would still pull the car forward. Most of the time I'd end up leaving before the tree was set and ready to count. I'd red light and waste a pass. After 2 passes like this, the axle would have been pre stressed and I never got a long D axle to last more than 3 passes. Even had a day where a buddy and I pulled the tranny from the car at the track, pulled the tranny apart and had to pull the diff to knock out the stubborn, broken piece of axle stub that was left in it. If you're on a twin, I'm sorry to say it, but I think you're going to get frustrated with how under matched the drive train is.

Chugger

Just a thought hush performance makes a zc half shaft adapter to run a better set of axles atleast it would get rid of the longer ds axle.

woody31

A .99 cent for sale sign will solve your issues, good luck

xohcef

No reason for him to sell it. It's more than fixable and can definitely be reliable. There's something weird going on here though. I never had any problems until 600

Tippyman

Yeah, I'm only at 380. Running an Action 2MD clutch. Still cable trans.