Mach1Racer

what a cute little Honda.
I dident even know that they ever made cars that looked like this. I know, Im a n00b

Bobs600

Now that oil pump has passed me by, even though I've had the engine separated from the gearbox several times. What makes it turn?

thegreatdane

Superb build! The condition of the car looks incredible.

BMS250FORD

The spare gearbox went back together fine. So I have stripped the cars gearbox and cleaned it up. The syncro rings look brand new. The box has been apart by the look of the silicon sealant used. The Oil pump drives off the end of the lay shaft and pumps lubricant through both the centre of the lay shaft and the main shaft to the bearings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZTVv1YxSXE

BMS250FORD

Replaced front and rear oil seals. Machined up a nylon insert for the rear of the main shaft bolt to enable the oil to flow from the nipple in the extension housing, back through the main shaft. The original insert was missing which would have caused a poor flow of lubricant. Also replaced the damaged philips head counter sunk screws, that secure the rear layshaft bearing block, with screws that use a 4mm allen key. They were easier to tighten and will be much easier to remove in future. I'm sure Mr. Honda would have used them too, if they were available in 1965. Ikea got some things right.

BMS250FORD

The lower housing is ready with sealant to mate with the upper. Notice the oil galleries where the oil pump will be positioned and the sump scavenge and filter. The tiny oil pump with cover removed shows a passage to the centre of the lay shaft as well as pumping oil though the lower housing and on though the extension housing to be injected into the rear of the main shaft. The main shaft can rotate at over 9500 rpm and the oil pump is designed to pump 3 liters per min. at 6000 rpm. There is 1 litre of oil in the system. Interestingly the oil pump was not included in the S800 gearbox. Only 8500 red line, maybe to save cost? The last picture shows the selectors where the shift extension engages.

BMS250FORD

I revisited the spare gearbox to better examine the oil seal in the bolt head that attaches the 2 drive gears to the main shaft. From the outside it looked like a worn nylon bush with a centre dia. 6.7 mm. When I removed it I could see that it was a worn 14x6X4 oil seal. The nylon insert I have made has a larger bearing surface on the nipple in the extension housing and I think will work better than the tiny oil seal. It will certainly work better than no seal that my cars box lacked and maybe last better than the tiny lip seals. Minor oil leaking from here doesn't matter. Even the worn original seal would have spilled a lot of oil.

HatchVX

this is prob one of my favorite threads. :thumbsup:

elprovos

Kudos to you BMS250FORD! Your work and dedication to task is astonishing! A thousand barrels of 80yr old whiskey to you kind Sir! =D

raiden571

neat, but not beautiful. looks like an ugly shoe for a fat person.

BMS250FORD

I'm taking a break from my project till the new year. I would like to see some of your pictures or links of your S-car projects posted here, so we can all share in your interest and maybe help you along the way. Lots of views of this thread but little feedback from S-car project restorers. PM me if you prefer, I am very interested to make contact with like minded people. I shall start disassembly of my engine next and will be stumbling in the dark with only the workshop manual to guide me. I have no parts for engine reconditioning. I will require gaskets, seals, chain guides and rings and maybe pistons and valves etc. etc. Some first hand knowledge would be invaluable and much appreciated. I don't know how much of what, I don't know. I would prefer not to find out the hard way. I shall be online regularly. Anyhow merry fxxxing everything.

smithenhiven

I'm sure you heard of Michael Ortmann in Germany (I think that's where he is)? Anyway, I got my engine rebuild kit from him. Very nice to have everything you need in one precise kit.

ColorCoated

man im glad to see every little attention to detail where it needs to be. Very nice restore so far. As if that thing wasnt in good enough shape as it was. Keep it up!

Bobs600

I feel pretty silly offering advice to someone who clearly knows a lot more than I do, but I wanted to say that this bolt has been the source of a problem to other owners, myself included. It has a tendency to loosen enough to let the drive and driven gears lock together. May I recommend using a thread locker.

(Edit) And thanks for the great video of the gears.

BMS250FORD

Bob, I don't have any past experience with these cars so hearing about the problems that others have had is invaluable, thank you. I noticed that this bolt was a bit loose on my spare gearbox when I was disassembling it. I don't know if it had been run like that. The bolt was tight on my car gearbox. I went out and bought a new 32mm open-end spanner which I had to grind one face off to reduce the thickness to about 12mm. It would then fit under the drive gear on the flats of the spacer. I also had to remove an extension housing stud to make room for the head of the spanner. So after spending $30 on a new spanner and immediately defacing it, (I hate that) I was able to loosen the bolt. The spanner is about 400mm long so I could get a good hold on it when it came to tightening the bolt during reassembly. The 23mm socket needed for the head of the bolt is the same size as needed for the rear axle nut. I had to go out and buy it specially as well, for that job at the time. I was pleased I got a second chance to use it. I am realy enjoying this project and can't wait to get back to start on the engine. Happy New Year!

Bobs600

I, too, have the 23 mm socket in my toolbox along with a small number of mutilated open-ends and even a 24 mm crowsfoot ground out to 29 mm. Like you, I hate modifying tools but sometimes there's no other alternative to the factory special tool.

Best wishes to you and the other readers of this thread for 2010. May the new year be at least as good as the old one. May it bring success to the many restorations written up in this forum and renewed happy motoring to all of us.

BlueS6Coupe

Hello,
Excellent approach and results so far. Your experience is guiding you well. Mr Ortmann is the premier supplier of re-pro parts for 'S' series Honda, you will not find better. His parts are tried and proven. When it comes to rebuilding the engine, use his parts, follow the book(s) & do not deviate. An absolute must is that you cannot use Silicon sealants. If you do, the engine will last 5 minutes. Far too many people have changed out the engine because it blew up or was unreliable. This is rubbish. It probably blew up because it was rebuilt without care. A well built 'S' engine will be very reliable, and a lot more fun. Regards Michael

BMS250FORD

Michael,
Welcome and thanks for your input. I would like to put together a typical S600 engine rebuild parts list. Gaskets, seals, pistons, rings, valves, timing chain, guide rollers, etc, etc. My engine has done 76000 miles. Looks like it has been apart sometime. I have test started it and it ran for 10 mins blowing a lot of smoke but sounding OK. (See my video) I assume you rebuilt your S600 engine?
Have you still got a list of parts that you purchased from Micheal Ortmann? Did you have any problems with certain parts? I'm just trying to research all options before I begin my engine rebuild. I used silicon on the inlet manifold and water pump for my test start but will know to use proper paper gaskets for final assembly. PM me
if you prefer.

Trinh

great build!! subscribed

BMS250FORD

I have edited the PDF parts list file from the CD that was kindly sent to me early last year. I have shown just the engine pages and blanked out old parts that don't suit my engine Number AS285E-1010370. Then highlighted the parts that I should replace in Yellow. Some parts have links to pictures that I found from part suppliers on the web. If you want to look at this file it is best to Right Click on it and save to target (your desktop is fine). This is because it will try to reload each time you follow a link and come back. It is a 5Mb file.
http://www.bmsmotorsport.com.au/Hond...rts%20List.pdf

MarkS800

Hi BMS

not that it matters but isnīt your Motor-Number 1010370 ?

I enjoy your threat very much. Keep up the good work. I hope to see pics of the whole car soon... Mark

BMS250FORD

The engine mounted on a engine stand and tilted to have the cam cover nearly horizontal to begin disassembly.

BMS250FORD

Coupe for sale on Ebay now:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-S600-Coupe-1965-Honda-S600-Coupe-Restore-Parts-Very-Complete_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ380197754924QQsspa genameZRSSQ3aBQ3aSRCHQ3aUSQ3a101

You Yanks knock youselves out!

See Kevin's thead if you think this is too far gone.
It has done less than half the miles that mine has.

kelsodeez

im in for this. great candidate for a restoration. there should be a rule that some hondas are not allowed to be modified and should stay original. this is going to be awesome.

BMS250FORD

Today the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold with carby assembly was removed. The distributor and water pump drive off the inlet and exhaust camshaft respectivley. The Cam cover removed revealed a very worn cam chain guide roller at the top of the engine. Otherwise things look pretty good. The exhaust camshaft also drives the oil pump spindle and the fuel pump pulse contacts while the inlet camshaft spins the tacho.