BMS250FORD

I was ready to give up on this method and began using the abrasive wheel to remove the build up of resin on the Oring seats. There was too much on a couple of them possibly due to it gelling before it could be squeezed out. By very carefully buffing the seat and watching the resin go, I was able to reveal about 1.5 mm of aluminium and the resin formed a fillet beyond that. The best bit was the resin stayed in the pitted surface making for a fairly flat surface. See in pic 2 and pic 4 where the resin has filled the seat successfully. I then decided to use some permatex Aviation liquid gasket on the liners just below the Oring to help the seal to the crankcase. I also dressed both sides of the used gasket that fits between the top of the liners and the crankcase with the liquid gasket. Dressed the head gasket the same way and bolted the head down. No crank or lower crankcase fitted yet. I have filled the water jacket with water and will pressurize it and look for leaks.

Bobs600

This is a cautionary chapter for those facing rebuild of an S-car block with corrosion to the liner seats. Few of us would have your automotive knowledge, skill or resources; I know I don't.

Speaking of resources, the photos in this thread deserve a long life on the internet. You've taken care with them and they're much, much clearer than those I've found elsewhere. As I ponder my next engine-related task, I can see what I might be up against, imagine the steps and note what I'll need. This rebuild started over two years ago and I'd be the loser if the photos begin to disappear a year or two from now, as they have done on some other threads. Have you been uploading your photos and videos directly to this site, or are you using links to a third-party site?

BMS250FORD

Thanks Bob,
My photos on this thread have been uploaded to Honda-Tech and the videos are on Youtube. I have created a Power Point Presentation with the best HiRes pictures and Videos, so far, that could be copied to DVD if anyone wants a hard copy. I have taken photos to remind myself "how things were" and posting them here is just record keeping. Getting some feedback from people following this thread is a bonus.

Cheers,

John

BMS250FORD

Looking for leaks. Head screwed on, gut full of water, no crank, no pants.

No leaks. Yet

Bobs600

May I pass along some good advice I received recently, for others reading here if not for you. Honda's workshop manual does not provide clear instructions on bleeding air from the cooling system. For years (decades?) I did the bleeding through the little valve in the heater line at the back of the engine. However, this does not seem to do a complete job. Once the engine is back in the car and ready for action, you could try bleeding the air out by loosening the plug that holds the water temperature sensor. Run the engine to pressure the rad and bleed again.

And thinking of the temperature sensor, I've learned it's important to an accurate temperature reading to ensure that the surface contacted by the electrical ring connector is completely free of engine paint, which changes the resistance.

BMS250FORD

Nice pictures Bob, I use a Canon IXUS 80 IS 8Mega Pixel camera usually in Macro Mode with flash off. I edit them with Microsoft Picture manager, which only involves cropping, auto correcting, resizing and renaming. My videos are recorded with the same camera, nothing fancy. I resize pictures to 800x600, save them and use Manage Attachments below, to Upload them here. Videos need to be Uploaded to a Youtube account and the Youtube URL copied into the Text box here.
If there is good content posted on this site then there should be good levels of traffic generated from people viewing treads and that should keep advertisers happy to continue with the support required to maintain the servers that will archive this content into the future.
So we need more interesting threads started to ensure that this stuff stays online.

BMS250FORD

Some new pictures showing reassembly. Working up side down and back to front.

BMS250FORD

Some more.

Bobs600

I've painted my sump gloss black to forestall the possible rust. I actually don't know how it looked originally but it's unlikely that Honda left it unpainted.

BMS250FORD

Bob,
None of my old sumps look like they were ever painted. The worst one has minor rust from sitting in the dirt and collecting moisture while filled with assorted engine parts and more dirt. We don't get ice and snow here and they don't salt the roads. The sump I am using has been cleaned up on a wire wheel and the original zinc plating is just fine as you can see. Cars don't seem to rot away here like they do in some windy and wet coastal areas where salt is the enemy. A good shot of paint has got to help if you are seeing a bit of surface rust appearing on your sump.

BMS250FORD

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIfWgHzzlYM

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Congratulations! That thing does sound nice. I would try to keep the merg in there...

BMS250FORD

One interesting aspect of this project is the language barrier.

Merg?

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Merg

I might buy a T shirt, not.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Ooops I guess it's a miss-spell. I meant merge...as in merge collector from your custom exhaust. I don't know... (^_^')

BMS250FORD

This is a silly assembly error. The oil pipe has not entered the top Oring properly when the head was refitted. The Oring has spewed out and can be seen looking down the pipe. This has caused an oil leak which would normally require the head removed again. I don't want to do that because I have used liquid gasket to dress the head gasket and would need to replace it next time it is removed. I have about 4 spare oil pipes off old engines, so I have decided to cut the pipe and remove the 2 pieces. Square up the ends in the Lathe creating about a 6mm gap. Turn up a 6mm spacer that will fit back in the gap. Then make a sleeve that can be sealed over the join. I will replace the damaged Oring in the process. I don't like temporary fixes but at this stage this will do till I can replace the pipe with a spare next time the head needs to come off.

BMS250FORD

The oil pipe looked like it was fitted properly when I fitted the head but I now recall how the head didnt tighten up evenly and then "Klonk" it came good. That would have been the Oring cutting through and letting the head settle properly. It is easy to completely forget to fit this pipe when juggling the head over the head studs, you are looking down from the top, not up from the bottom, so keep it close at hand and make real sure it enters the Orings correctly. The Orings can be fitted to the pipe first but they then have issues pushing into the castings and could get pinched in the process. Simply take time to get it right because you can't fix it easily later. May be next time, I shall try fitting the cylinder head with the oil pipe pushed into the head first, before lowering it over the head studs. Then guiding the lower end into the crankcase will be easier because I should be able to better see whats happening from the top.

Ractive

WOW great find. Subscribing

BMS250FORD

Oil pipe fixed, exhaust and starter motor refitted. Cam cover stuck on with Aviation liquid gasket after silicon removed. Petrol pump pulse contactor removed from cam cover to watch the oil flow around the oil pump drive shaft. There was a lot more oil flood though there than I expected at idle speeds. All good.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7bkXGsfp_k

BMS250FORD

With the engine warm and the choke and idle adjusted, it starts instantly and runs with very little vibration. Oil has burnt off the exhaust and so now there is no smoke or any leaks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGD4UaIHyGw

TheTurbinator

subbed this thread.

Dejavue_Ind

Amazing work. Cant wait to see this thing finished.

BMS250FORD

Ortmann supplied a NOS oil seal for the differential about a year ago now. I had disassembled and cleaned the diff about 18 months ago but thought I should get some advice about setting up pinion height, preload and backlash. I could feel a very small amount of end float in the pinion shaft and thought there should be none. The twin opposing thrust ball bearings should provide zero end float of the pinion shaft. As they wear some end float will develop, changing the height of the pinion. I struggle to understand the workshop manual on this topic and without the special tools to measure pinion height, I was a bit lost. I do know that it is important to get the crown and pinion set perfectly meshed or they will destroy each other quickly. Diff has done 76000 miles and shows minimal tooth wear and I was advised that the pinion end float was minimal and quite acceptable. Don't change the pinion height shim if the crown and pinion set is not being changed. So with the pinion shaft installed and torqued up, the crown wheel assembly can be adjusted for backlash and preload. The preload is the set by adjusting the force on the Tapered roller bearings. At the same time the backlash is set by adjusting the position of the whole crown assembly so that there is minimal backlash against the pinion. With the correct backlash and preload on the tapered bearings there is some resistance felt when the pinion is turned and a very slight knock. That is probably as clear as mud. Helps when an expert can have a look and feel.

BMS250FORD

My original diff housing mounting supports had large cracks in the nylon bearing material. Also the rubber dust seals showed signs of deterioration. I disassembled an older single chain rear axle which had metal covers over the dust seals and much better nylon bearing surfaces. The older mounts fitted my diff housing a little more snug and with the metal covered seals bushed up, looked and felt good.

BMS250FORD

I have new rear wheel bearing seals but decided the original ones look good and will see if they weep before I change them. Pressing them out will damage the old seals which is fine if they are ineffective but a shame if they are still good. They are a "Honda size" and hard to get. I gave the brake backing plates a shot of Matt black paint and put the wheels on.

BMS250FORD

I have disassembled 3 propeller shafts including my original and laid out the spherical bearings from each. One of the sphericals was proving difficult to remove so I figured I could employ the same method of removal as for a spigot bearing in the end of a crankshaft. Thats where the bearing is stuffed with grease and a correctly sized punch is used to compress the grease and create hydraulic pressure on the rear of the bearing to push it out. That method ultimately worked but not before I discovered that there was a small breather hole in the center through to the hollow pipe. I found that the hole was about the correct tapping size for a 4mm tap. I run a tap through it and screwed a 4mm cap head screw in to block the hole. With that done the back pressure would build up behind the bearing when the 11mm punch was tapped into the grease pool. My lathe came in handy for making an 11mm punch as it is an odd "Honda size". I removed the 4mm screw when the bearing popped out. See how there is a damaged spherical at one end of each of the prop shafts. I don't know which end, gearbox or diff, because I didn't mark them and they are symmetrical. Only 2 of the sphericals are usable and one of those has a loose fit to the 11mm spigot. I will look for new ones or alternatives ultimately. In the mean tine I assembled the best 2 and found 2 reusable rubber donuts and polished up some bolts to assemble the gearbox end of the prop shaft.