what size thickness of mdf i need?
#1
what size thickness of mdf i need?
O.k I have an 1997 civic hatchback and I'm going to install Hertz HSK 165 components speakers in the front and I'm wondering what thickness size 6.5" mdf spacers I need. (of course I'll be cutting off the basket out of the door panels)
Also, I would like to keep my stock grill also to make it look oem too
Also, I would like to keep my stock grill also to make it look oem too
#2
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Re: what size thickness of mdf i need?
.75 (3/4") would be ideal or you could do .5 ( 1/2").
The only issue i see with mdf is that by nature its porous and will soak up any moisture in the door (doors let in water) and will expand. Try to get marine grade plywood if you can or maybe seal the rings with fiberglass resin.
The only issue i see with mdf is that by nature its porous and will soak up any moisture in the door (doors let in water) and will expand. Try to get marine grade plywood if you can or maybe seal the rings with fiberglass resin.
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Re: what size thickness of mdf i need?
MDF is still better then plywood, [even marine grade] just use fiberglass resin on it.
The stock grill is easy to keep, you will want to cut as much of the speaker housing away from the door panel as you can, to get as much "height" as possible.
When cutting away the speaker housing, be very careful not to damage anything to do with holding grill in place.
The more mass the speaker mounting panel, [spacer] has the better the speaker will sound, [also why MDF is better then plywood] so speaker panel should be made as big as conveniently possible.
One disadvantage of the 96-UP Civic is the door panel speaker housing, up till then you had a convenient mounting surface to mount the speaker housing, pull the stock plastic speaker housing, use it as a template to make MDF housings, not so easy on your Civic as you do not have a nice flat surface to mount your panel to, but still doable.
Keep these things in mind...
The more mass the better.
Speaker must be mounted to an absolutely flat surface, twisting/warping the speaker basket will result in a misaligned speaker VC.
The speaker must be airtight, flat surface helps but a gasket should be used, ideally the speaker should be in a sealed box, not practical in a car door, replacing the plastic vapor barrier with a single sheet of Dynamat, [or the like] and sealing the inside door skin as much as possible will make a huge diff., DO NOT plug drain holes in bottom of door.
Leaving paper backing on or duct taping off the parts of the sticky side you do not want to stick to things will prevent linkage and things from binding and still get a very good uninterrupted seal on the door.
Last thing, something in common with plywood that I noticed some years back.
Laminating diff. thicknesses of MDF together, [to get the thickness I wanted] makes for a better "sounding" mounting board. 94
The stock grill is easy to keep, you will want to cut as much of the speaker housing away from the door panel as you can, to get as much "height" as possible.
When cutting away the speaker housing, be very careful not to damage anything to do with holding grill in place.
The more mass the speaker mounting panel, [spacer] has the better the speaker will sound, [also why MDF is better then plywood] so speaker panel should be made as big as conveniently possible.
One disadvantage of the 96-UP Civic is the door panel speaker housing, up till then you had a convenient mounting surface to mount the speaker housing, pull the stock plastic speaker housing, use it as a template to make MDF housings, not so easy on your Civic as you do not have a nice flat surface to mount your panel to, but still doable.
Keep these things in mind...
The more mass the better.
Speaker must be mounted to an absolutely flat surface, twisting/warping the speaker basket will result in a misaligned speaker VC.
The speaker must be airtight, flat surface helps but a gasket should be used, ideally the speaker should be in a sealed box, not practical in a car door, replacing the plastic vapor barrier with a single sheet of Dynamat, [or the like] and sealing the inside door skin as much as possible will make a huge diff., DO NOT plug drain holes in bottom of door.
Leaving paper backing on or duct taping off the parts of the sticky side you do not want to stick to things will prevent linkage and things from binding and still get a very good uninterrupted seal on the door.
Last thing, something in common with plywood that I noticed some years back.
Laminating diff. thicknesses of MDF together, [to get the thickness I wanted] makes for a better "sounding" mounting board. 94
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