tha_badguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Mine never falses, but it triggers the warn easily. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what mine does
& when im tryin to sleep my 2-way drives me crazy

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not the alarm that so often fails, it's the install. The customer doesn't buy extra sensors and a battery backup module. Half the time they don't even use the alarm. Then when the car gets stolen, they blame the alarm.

That phrase is an escape for people that don't want to pay for an alarm because it's not something they can show off to their friends like JDM sidemarkers or oversized rims. It's an escape for people that are uneasy about theft but don't want to worry about it. Worrying about it makes you take action that might save your car.

If you're installing your alarm, it doesn't make sense to pay someone to remove the old alarm. It's all pretty self explanitory. It's a good test to see if you have a chance at learning how to do your own alarm. If you can't discern the alarm's wiring from your factory wiring, get a basic idea of what's going on and how to put it back to stock, you probably shouldn't attempt your own install.

There is only one wire that's cut and needs to be put back together. The black/white starter wire.

A helm's manual isn't needed and wont help you. Just use the wire color/location chart for your car. Verify every single wire with a digital voltmeter. There's probably more tools than I'll ever remember to write down. Maybe someone should take a catalog of my mobile tool box. You need all the stuff you mentioned, a screw driver, a drill, sockets in 10, 12, 14, 17, cutters, a pick, a panel popper... lots of stuff. Having the right tools is half the job.

What do you mean "one remote alarm"? What the hell is a remote alarm? Are you asking if you should add a second alarm? Never add a second alarm. That's retarded.</TD></TR></TABLE>

amen I wish I could sig that. O well. My meighbor has a fixed up teg and beleives in the factory alarm system. The dealers charged him a 1k to put it in and its so shyty. Even thou he see's all the stolen cars that I work on. He beleives that pos is going to stop someone . O well learn the hard way lol.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tha_badguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is what mine does
& when im tryin to sleep my 2-way drives me crazy



</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you have the schock sencer tied up.

tha_badguy

im refering to my au94t
my shock is setup to my liking

hypeR speed

hey great writeup... what location for the antenna gives u the greatest range and reception? and are loops better for range or just one long run?


Modified by hypeR speed at 5:11 AM 2/13/2007

maxheat

I have a question.. i dont kno if this was thought of already but ill just go ahead and ask it..

Would it be possible to put some sort of keypad in your car as a kill switch and hook the keypad to a "brain" that would verify the code and would accept it and switch to the ON position, allowing you to start the car.

And of course would remain OFF if the code is incorrect or was never entered.

Seems to be the best kill switch I can think of, and it has to be possible.. as for the difficulty.. im not sure..

Ill make a thread just for faster answers

suspendedHatch

Just so you know, if your alarm is driving you crazy, and that means that it triggers but no one is trying to steal your car, that means it falses. So no, yours isn't like mine. Mine doesn't drive me crazy. It only goes off when someone or something is too close to my car for my liking.

Keypad, eyescan, or a simple toggle switch; it doesn't matter. It has wires coming out of it. Cut those wires and put them together. The problem with the fancy switches like your keypad idea is that people don't bother trying to hide them.

The best antenna installation method for range is to put the antenna behind your rear view mirror, facing down, below your tint, and loosely coil all your excess antenna wire up in the headliner.

maxheat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keypad, eyescan, or a simple toggle switch; it doesn't matter. It has wires coming out of it. Cut those wires and put them together. The problem with the fancy switches like your keypad idea is that people don't bother trying to hide them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I have an ideal place to put it, making it easy access for me to get to but hidden in the same note.. Plus im not planning on mounting it in any common spot and I plan to put some plastic over it and kinda camoflaugh it making it even harder to find it.

neremixed

how reliable is the auto-lock that goes on your brakes?

My car got stolen recently (got it back though) but I didn't put it on. I'm thinking had I put it on I might have avoided that.

SYTFU Tommy.

sorta confuse with the wire diagram to install the 508d into the clifford 3.5 rsx. can i get another wire diagram. thanks

Ludster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neremixed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how reliable is the auto-lock that goes on your brakes?

My car got stolen recently (got it back though) but I didn't put it on. I'm thinking had I put it on I might have avoided that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably not. A twig can't really protect your car

JasonGhostz

Hi all. I needed some help with a couple of things before I start moving forward. Thanks in advance.

I want to put a Diode on my Fuel Pump Kill Switch Relay. Based on this site, it looks like it is done so on the outside, between coil terminals, with the striped end towards positive. Is this the correct way to do so?


The above site also mentions "Back EMF" reaching nearly 200V (at times). How, if at all, should this play into the Peak Inverse Voltage of the Diode, or am I misunderstanding what the PIV means for a Diode? What happens if the PIV is exceeded? I imagine the consequences aren't nearly as bad as not having the Diode there, but it's been years since my last (and only) class regarding this stuff.

Will connecting the Diode to the Relay prevent me from using any Quick Disconnect terminals (female) for the coil wires? I've never done this before, but it seems like using a harness is definitely out of the question. I haven't taken any of the Relays apart, but the pictures from that site show things to be quite crowded inside.

If tere are any good links to sites out there, let 'er rip. I've been going to the12volt and howstuffworks a lot, as well as scouring the boards here, to get a better grasp as to what's going on. Any help in understanding how all these things come together is greatly appreciated.

JasonGhostz

suspendedHatch

Questions like this should have their own topics so they get the attention they deserve.

What the expletive is that? Get a normal SPDT auto relay and make all your connections on the outside of it.

For spike suppression you put a 1amp diode between the 85 and 86. The diode will be backwards so that it doesn't short your relay. So the striped end will be on the positive and the non striped end will be on the negative. You can buy starter kill relays that already have the diode installed and have a base and wires. Otherwise just crimp on female quick disconnects and jumper the diode between the wires.

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the expletive is that? Get a normal SPDT auto relay and make all your connections on the outside of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol.. it looks like the guy used a RadioShack SPST Relay (based on the filename), and wired a diode to it. I'm hoping mine looks better by the time I'm done (after practicing). Besides, I'm in no position to criticize.. Regardless, thanks for the confirmation.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For spike suppression you put a 1amp diode between the 85 and 86. You can buy starter kill relays that already have the diode installed and have a base and wires. Otherwise just crimp on female quick disconnects and jumper the diode between the wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks again. I was hoping I'd somehow be able to use the Relay Harness that came with some of my SPDT Relays, ignoring the 87a terminal & pulling the appropriate wire from the Harness. Being a noob, I was hoping to use as much pre-built stuff as I could, so I wouldn't have to rely on my "skills"...

If/When I can, I'll try to take a lot of pics when I try this out. If anyone has any good references already, then please post. It will likely be a while before I post anything, in any case. I'm hoping someone with more knowledge and experience beats me to it.

Thanks again! Good to see you're still around, man!
JasonGhostz

suspendedHatch

What I meant was, that doesn't look like any kind of normal relay. Get one of these

and one of these if you don't like female quick disconnects for some odd reason

What kind of huge project are you alluding to? A fuel kill switch? A spike suppression diode on the relay? You know that's been beat to death on this forum and in my sites and writeups?!

When you're ready to start your big project, start a new thread so more people will see it.

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of huge project are you alluding to? A fuel kill switch? A spike suppression diode on the relay? You know that's been beat to death on this forum and in my sites and write ups?!

When you're ready to start your big project, start a new thread so more people will see it.</TD></TR></TABLE>Nothing huge... I'm just adding a stand-alone Fuel Kill Switch to what I already have. None of what I'll be doing is ground-breaking stuff, but I spent a couple of days searching the net and this site for a step-by-step on adding a Diode to a Relay (never asked my uncle or nothin ). The site linked in my OP is the best I came across.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I meant was, that doesn't look like any kind of normal relay. Get one of these http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics...5.jpg

</TD></TR></TABLE>Got it, I think... well, got the RS 275-226 like your site instructs. I just couldn't find any other pics of a DIY Diode-equipped Relay.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and one of these if you don't like female quick disconnects for some odd reason
http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics...5.jpg

</TD></TR></TABLE>Don't get me wrong... I LOVE any Quick Female. I'm not adverse to disconnecting from them, especially if there's no spark between us. But I was just concerned that soldering a Diode between 85 & 86 would prevent a Harness (I have Harnesses for SPDT Relays that I can use) from sitting flush when connected, and was wondering how to accommodate this if necessary. I noticed that the Relay Harnesses I have use Female Quick Disconnects for the lead wires as well...

The picture from the linked site (not yours) looks like a shoddy job, and I don't yet have the experience to rely on my (lack of) soldering skills. I'm well aware that I could just buy a Diode-equipped Relay, but I'm looking to get my hands dirty with a project that is simple and functional which would give me a good chance to practice. While I don't mind learning from mistakes, I prefer to learn how to do things right the first time. You and this site have been instrumental.

Thanks again.
JasonGhostz

Cboi

is there anyway to prevent ur car from being slim jim'd? like adding some kind of shield to prevent the lever from being pulled?

suspendedHatch

Yeah, I did a DIY once with some pvc pipe and some zipties, but it didn't look very impressive so it never caught on. Oh well, it's held up pretty well since then.

Basically you have a bar connecting the doorlock to the latch, and another bar connecting the door key cylinder to the latch. The glass in your door has a cut-away near the door handle, and it's possible to get a slim jim down there and access the lock bar. I cut a slit down a plastic pipe, slipped it over the bar where it's exposed, and secured it with some zipties. I disconnected the other bar coming from the key cylinder and later shaved the keyholes.

I've noticed on some DCs that there seems to have been an attempt by Honda to do something similar. Not pipes but a shield blocking the exposed bar.

gospeedgo1

so can i post question buying about a set up here? since the best security system thread seems to have disappeared? i have read both your sites, the older version and the new version and the other faqs threads posted here.

suspendedHatch

No, you can't. You can post a new thread, but I will probably lock it if it's something answered by the sticky. You might want to do a reality check because it's still there and always has been.

winneth

Hi i know this thread is geared towards DEI products, but i was interested in installing a compustar alarm and since i couldnt find their accesories, i wanted to use DEI sensors and battery bakup modules in combination with the compustar alarm unit.

Would this be possible?

And do you think I can still follow this particular guide (which is awesome btw) to install it?

Look forward to everyones replies and knowledge


Thanks

winneth

forgot to mention im looking particularly at the 2W900FM-A because i dont really want a remote start

heres the specs.

- Includes starter-kill relay
- Battery backup capable
- External Siren (six-tone)
- Optional super bright blue LED
- Driver's priority unlock
- Ignition controlled door locks
- Includes dual stage shock sensor
- Secure valet switch
- Anti-Jacking mode
- Remote Paging System (can unlock vehicle via pin code)
- 2-auxillary outputs, expandable to 7 with Channel Expander
- 2-programmable inputs
- Selectable trunk release output
- Horn trigger output

suspendedHatch

Sensors are more or less universal, since they're basically just a type of switch. Some sensors are a little more tricky though ie motion sensors, dual stage sensors...

The Compustar I don't recommend for a first time installer. The instructions are hideous and the alarm itself is less forgiving of mistakes. If you hook up a negative relay output to a circuit instead of a relay on a DEI alarm, the output will survive and will still work when you wire it correctly. On a Compustar, you will permanently fry the output.

fcm is a big fan of Compustar. You can bug him in HIS huge DIY writeup *cough.

Actually everything I just wrote is included in the writeups. You will need to read much more closely if you ever hope to install the alarm correctly.

winneth

Thanks for the quick reply,

Is there anyone who has the instructions so i can perhaps "prepare" and see if i can fimiliarize myself with the wires and such before actually doing it?

Agian the model is 2W900FM-A

suspendedHatch

Compustar.com

You can still use my site/writeups for any car alarm. All alarms have more or less the same types of wires, just different colors. On version6 I was careful to put not only the DEI wire color, but the wire description as well. In some cases the Compustar will require a relay on a particular wire when DEI does not; so refer to the alarm's instructions.

winneth

Hmm the closest thing i could find was a remote manual, but not the installation manual.

Thanks for ur quick replies and input


EDIT *found the answer to the question*


Modified by winneth at 9:53 PM 4/26/2007