Azxster

Here is my vehicle wiring diagram (92 Prelude)


Constant 12V+ Blue/White or White/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Yellow/Red
Ground Black
Illumination Red/Black
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Right Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) Blue/Green
Left Front (-) Gray/Black
Right Front (+) Red/Green
Right Front (-) Brown/Black
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Gray/White
Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow
Right Rear (-) Brown/White


I bought the car without a deck. Its a mess . This is my first time installing. All the interior panels are out. So in the centre console, I have the above cables, 2 white/yellow (one gives 3 volts, one gives 0 volts) and 2 yellow/red (none gives 12 volts). How do I differentiate the wires? In addition, I have 2 RCA cables, and twin-twist speaker wires. How would I hook up the speaker connections? The aftermarket or the factory.

suspendedHatch

The fuse under the hood is blown. It might be the 7.5A ECU memory fuse (on Civics and Integras, not sure on Prelude).

As for the speakers, the best way would be to "pop" the suspected speaker wiring to verify them. A frequency generator would be ideal, and it will even tell you the phase. But you can do it with a square battery by quickly touching it, just dont deploy an airbag etc.

Azxster

I suspected the fuse to be blown since bare wires + metal casing while driving is asking for trouble. To pop the speaker, do I use a 9V "square battery"? How do I know the polarity.

How do I power my rear center single coaxial speaker? I have no available amp for it.

B18C_EJ8

Don't know why you're needing to pop test if you've got the wiring colors (and polarities) already....

But you're correct. You can use the "square" 9v.

To check for polarity, you just need to be able to see the speaker when it "pops"... If you pop the speaker and the cone moves outward, whichever wire is on the + terminal on the battery is your + terminal on the speaker. If it moves inward when you pop, then it's just the opposite (wire on the neg terminal of the battery is the + on the speaker).

Azxster

There are aftermarket speaker wires. Not sure which ones to use... haven't checked.

fcm

Are the aftermarket speakers?

Pull the speakers and see which wires are connected to them, or just use the batt. on the oem speaker leads, if the speakers pop, use the oem wires, you should be able to see the rear ones from the trunk.

If you are not going to run an amp for the 4 speakers, if they are not already wired to the oem speaker leads I would wire them to the oem wiring and use them.

As for the double set of power wires, one is an in white/yellow should have constant power on it the other white yellow is a constant power for something else in the car, connect both the white/yellows together, and then to the HU, [unless your HU is "high power" and you are using the HUs amp to run the 4 speakers] it's the same with the red/yellow its the acc. and one of them should have 12V+ when the ign. is on, the other is acc. for something else, connect both together and then to the acc. wire, [red] on the HU.

If you have a "high power" HU, [more then 15W RMS per ch.] running a fused 10ga power wire from the batt. the behind the HU an connecting the HUs constant, [yellow] to it will get the HU the current it needs, you must still connect the 2 white/yellow wires together and cap them off so they can't short out.

Also if your not running any off board amps, [4ch. for speakers or sub amp] you do not need the RCAs 94

Azxster

Hi, I do not have an amp to power my speakers, but I do have a sub amp. I have a HU that provides 22 RMS. How would I hook up the coaxial speaker (5th) when I have 4 speakers already?

For the deck, what wires do I really need?
Constant, Switched, Speaker Wires?

I am so confused with the mess the previous owner left. I'll take some pictures later on and find out which are my true speaker wires, replace the fuse, and connect the two yellow/wire (kind of iffy on it). For the 2 red/yellow... are you sure about connecting both?

Thank you for your help.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azxster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi, I do not have an amp to power my speakers, but I do have a sub amp. I have a HU that provides 22 RMS. How would I hook up the coaxial speaker (5th) when I have 4 speakers already?</TD></TR></TABLE> 5th speaker?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azxster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the deck, what wires do I really need?Constant, Switched, Speaker Wires?</TD></TR></TABLE> You will need the speaker leads, the acc. power, a constant power and the ground, however, because the HU is a "high power" unit you will get better results if you wire the HUs constant power directly to batt., [run a 10ga fused power wire from the batt. the behind the HU and connect the HUs yellow to it] the ground can be connected to the oem ground but you will need to add a chassis to chassis ground, you can do this when you install the HUs back support, [use a metal bracket], don't forget to cap off the unused oem constant power.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azxster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am so confused with the mess the previous owner left. I'll take some pictures later on and find out which are my true speaker wires, replace the fuse, and connect the two yellow/wire (kind of iffy on it). For the 2 red/yellow... are you sure about connecting both?</TD></TR></TABLE> A pix will help, not sure I understand about the 2 yellow//wire for the 2 red/yellow, and that may be my own fault, you said you had 2 white/yellow wires and 2 yellow/red wires, I told you the white/yellows can be wired together but I mistakenly said the 2 red/yellows should also be wired together, I want to say the 2 yellow/reds should be wired together, there should only be one red/yellow, [right rear speaker pos. (+)] if the 2 sets of white/yellows and yellow/reds are in the oem radio harness, they are as I said, one of them is "in" or the hot lead and the other is an "out" going to something else in the car that needs acc. and constant power, but are fused by the same fuse, [commonly called "daisy chaining"] and it will be diff. from make to make and model to model, sorry for the confusion.

The oem radio harness normally has 8 speaker leads, 4 pos. (+) and 4 neg. (-), 1 acc., 1 constant, 1 ground, 1 illumination and 1 power ant. trigger lead, [be careful there are 2 brown/white leads, one is power ant. the other is right rear speaker neg. (-)] normally 13 leads. If the plug has been cut off and the harness cut back far enough, on some Honda/Acuras you will find paralleling wires, 4 more speaker leads, normally connected in parallel with the front speaker leads, [for tweeters] an extra "acc." and "constant" connected in parallel with the "hot" acc. and constant, [for other things needing an acc. or constant] and another illumination, [red/black] but as with the acc. and constant power it is connected to the "hot" red/black for some other light.
This may help a little... http://www.installdr.com/Insta...9.pdf
Post a pix of the wiring, and count the number of wires in the oem radio harness. 94

Azxster

There are 13 factory wires, just like shown in the Helm's diagram of the connector.

I will take your suggestion and run a fused 10 gauge to the HU.

I guess I will leave the 5th coaxial speaker as is. The idiot removed the factory amplifier so I do not have a power source for this odd speaker. The HU is tied up, and my mono sub is maxed out for the single 12".

So right now, is my delima, figuring which are the speaker wires? I can easily tap in the ignition/switch from the steering column since I need it for an alarm anyways. I have no need for a powered antenna at the moment, the original does not work so it was replaced by a non-motor one.

Thanks fcm, and the rest, you guys are the best.

I'll try to see whats up in the car tomorrow.

fcm

OIC 5th speaker, oem sub and amp have been removed and a coax has been installed, your right, forget about it.

They are using a yellow/white as the power ant. and oem sub amp "turn on" lead, ignore it also.

The extra yellow/red was power for oem amp, ignore it.

The extra white/yellow is constant power for the power ant., ignore it

Check the fuses for the acc., [fuse 18 - 10A in under dash fuse box] and constant power, [even if you are not going to use it] [fuse 43 - 10A in under hood fuse box]

You will only need the red/black if your HU has an illumination input, orange or orange/white.

Don't forget to cap off any wires you are not using.

You will use......

1- Acc. yellow/red.
2- Ground black.

3- RF + red/green.
4- RF - brown/black.

5- LF + blue/green.
6- LF - gray/black.

7- RR + red/yellow.
8- RR - brown/white.

9- LR + blue/yellow.
10- LR - gray/white.

There is no point going to the ign. harness for acc. when you have one in the oem harness. 94