imadigitalgod

Hey guys im planning out what I am going to get for my system. I am definitely ready to get out of entry-level speakers and into higher end speakers.

Right now I am planning out the subwoofer components: single sub and an amp

I have been looking at the JL 500/1v2 amp and JL 10w6v3 lately...from reviews i have read its a good combo to get but i have one question...

It says its RIPS lets the amp handle 1.5-4ohms @ 500 watts but theres one thing that i am confused on...

I know at higher impedance(4ohms) the amp doesnt have to work as hard as at lower impedances(1.5 ohms). I havent researched this part much but wont the amp get hotter and have less SQ at lower impedances? If I would hook up the 10w6v3 to it, it would put a 1.5-2 ohm load on the amp which the amp is rated for but after playing it for an extended period of time im not sure how it will perform.

Also, if anyone has heard them, how well would the kappa perfect subs perform with this amp? or any other SQ subs?

Thanks!

junkspeedproject

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by From the JL audio site &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The "Intelligent" portion of the R.I.P.S. System is a circuit that actually monitors output current to optimize the amplifier's output power over a wide range of load impedances (1.5 ohm to 4 ohm per channel).

Conventional amplifiers are designed to produce optimum power at a particular impedance (2 ohm, for example). When asked to run above that impedance (say, 4 ohm), these amplifiers lose power (half their power from 2 ohm to 4 ohm). This will not happen with a JL Audio Slash v2 amplifier because the R.I.P.S. System detects the actual impedance being driven and adjusts output rail voltages to deliver optimum output. The entire process is seamless, automatic, and results in incredible dynamics for satellite channels and consistent power output for a wide range of subwoofer configurations. It also takes into account the real impedance of the system, rather than relying on often inaccurate assumptions based on a speaker's rated impedance. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats straight from jl's website if you couldnt find it. basically the amp adjusts itself according to the actual impedance of the sub to provide the optimum power. i personally used the 500/1v1 with a 12w3v3 the 4ohm model and the 2 ohm model. i could tell no difference with either sub. the 500/1v1 uses the same R.I.P.S. technology so you should be good either way.

imadigitalgod

Do they make the 2 and 4 ohm model anymore? all i can see is that they have the dual 4ohm which will either be 8 or 2 ohm load when installed.

i might be thinking of the amp incorrectly; I have always thought of amps that are at 2 ohms make the amp work harder than at 4 that dont have the RIPS technology which may decrease the sound quality(again, im all about SQ). I fully understand what RIPS does and how it works.

By the way how did the 12w3 sound? I am thinking between the W3 and the W6. Thanks for the reply!

94_DC4

I prefer W3's over the W6's. Especially if you're on a budget.

imadigitalgod

what makes u prefer them over w6s?

junkspeedproject

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what makes u prefer them over w6s?</TD></TR></TABLE>

id only go with w3s if i was on a budget. i also ran 1 12w6v2 with a 500/1 and it was damn clean. spl and sq nicely balanced. i also helped my buddy with his set up in his civic coupe. 2 12"w3v2s run off a 1000/1 jl amp. he pushed 133.3 dbs at an iasca event. im sure you can push more dbs with 2 12w6v2s. ive heard a 12 w7 run with a 1000/1 and it surely pushes more than a 12w6v2 but it doesnt sound as "clean."

C_Rock77

What's the 10w6v3? I'm familiar w/ the w6v2...but not the v3.

imadigitalgod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_Rock77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the 10w6v3? I'm familiar w/ the w6v2...but not the v3.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All i know is that its a new model and have heard good things about them.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junkspeedproject &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

id only go with w3s if i was on a budget. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well money is an object but all I have to buy is the amp and one 10" or 12" w6 sub.

I am wanting to go for the best SQ that I can get. I have heard good things about this sub. I am not getting it till a few months from now; im planning out the whole install. Right now I have 6.5 Alpine type-r components in front powered by an Alpine MRV-T320 amp and 6.5" type-r coaxials in the rear.

I have always had "entry level" type subs so i am going for something thats higher-end that sounds great(im an SQ person)

fcm

There is no 10W6v3 that I know of, the newest line is the W3v3...
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/prod...d=200 94

imadigitalgod

sorry i got the numbers mixed up. but , fcm, what do you think of this combo of amp/speaker?

fcm

It should work very well, assuming a proper, well constructed, cabinet is used. 94

94_DC4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what makes u prefer them over w6s?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I prefer W3's when there is a budget. Both W3's & W6's a great subs. I agree with FCM, the JL 500/1 paired with a 10W6 will work well as long as the enclosure is properly built.

imadigitalgod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94_DC4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I prefer W3's when there is a budget. Both W3's & W6's a great subs. I agree with FCM, the JL 500/1 paired with a 10W6 will work well as long as the enclosure is properly built.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. Is there much sound difference between the w3 and w6? I am not really on a budget since all I have left is an amp and a sub so im looking for the 'best' sounding combo out there.(of course i dont want to spend $3000 on a single sub tho)

I am ready for high-end type of sound. I am planning on building a custom fiberglass enclosure for my sub and amp combo; im very good at matching the suggested internal volume. ALso this will be a sealed enclosure

fcm

Yes there is a diff., the W6 is a DVC 600W sub, the W3 is a SVC 500W sub although box volumes are about the same.
Speaker efficiency is as low as 83.7dB, [10W6] and as high as 87.15dB, [12W3v3-2 and 4]
The W6 also works very well with a 500/1 driving it. 94

imadigitalgod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes there is a diff., the W6 is a DVC 600W sub, the W3 is a SVC 500W sub although box volumes are about the same.
Speaker efficiency is as low as 83.7dB, [10W6] and as high as 87.15dB, [12W3v3-2 and 4] </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah sorry i didnt explain what i meant. I was meaning SQ (and maybe output, im more concerned with SQ) is there much of a difference between the w3s and the w6s?

fcm

I like the sound of the 12W6v2-D4, IMO it is "tighter" more accurate sounding then the W3, probably has to do with the DVCs.
It is critical that the cabinet is braced properly, with absolutely no air leaks.

Use as big a MDF baffle as you can, [min. 1" thick]. 94

imadigitalgod

Thanks. w6 it is, unless theres any other/better subs that is great for SQ. If i get the w3 and then know the w6 is 'better'(i also light tighter bass as u mentioned) i would end up trying to sell the w3 and get a w6.

One thing is that I will have to figure out how to mount the enclosure along the back of the trunk; the gas tank is underneath that area but does anyone have suggestions on what the best way is to mount it to the car? I am great at shaping things perfectly using fiberglass, making them almost perfect to the mfg suggested cabinet volume(literally within a few cubic inches), yet i suck at mounting them. Im sure i can figure it out but any input would be helpful. Thanks again!

fcm

Dynamat the spare tire well, [whole rear floor pan] then fiberglass the well, use a 1" baffle, probably get away with one that is flush with the floor and still have room for a "flush" amp rack at the front of the tire well, use the spare tire hold down to hold cabinet in place, if sub can be "offset" to one side and back enough so you can use a "ready rod" long enough to not only hold the fiberglass bottom of cabinet, [washer and nut on ready rod] to the spare tire hold down but also go through the baffle with nut and washer below, [inside] and above, [outside] the baffle and tightened together works great to brace the baffle.

It's just a spare tire well sub cabinet, done a million times, it will not be unique but it will work great, take up no trunk space. 94

imadigitalgod

I have the whole trunk dynamatted right now. I was thinking of something that would fire towards the rear of the vehicle. Is there any good/best places to mount or bolt down the enclosure that will span scross the rear of the trunk? I dont think this would take up too much trunk space because since it will span across i can use the width of the enclosure space so I wont have the sub stick out too far. I will also be making the amp rack connected to the enclosure.