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How do you run wires under carpet?

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Old 05-24-2006, 01:44 PM
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Default How do you run wires under carpet?

I need to run rca's from my deck to my trunk for my subs.
Whats the trick to running them underneath the interior carpet for a clean look?

How do you get them all the way to the trunk under the carpet?
Old 05-24-2006, 01:53 PM
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Remove trim pieces. Pull carpet up. Put wire underneath. Push carpet back down. Reinstall trim. Not that hard of a concept.
Old 05-24-2006, 02:00 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove trim pieces. Pull carpet up. Put wire underneath. Push carpet back down. Reinstall trim. Not that hard of a concept.</TD></TR></TABLE>

considering this is a forum for questions B18C_EJ8.. i dont see the need for the "not hard of a concept" remark... anyway, yes.. remove your trim pieces carefully (they break easily), then remove your seats (both front and rear), and center console as well, then pull up the carpet and snake the wires down the middle of the interior.. you want to keep the rcas as far as possible from other wiring such as: speaker wire, power wire, ground wire, etc. you can and may run the rcas with the remote turn on wire.. that is fine. then just reverse order how you took things apart.. and you should be set.
Old 05-24-2006, 02:59 PM
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Default Re: (LSRracing95)

usually you can run the wires from the back of the deck to the drivers side under the dash from there go behind the kick panel (by the drivers left foot) go under the door trim that is holding the edge of your carpet inplace by the door and route it to the rear from there. atleast thats how i've done it on my past 2 american cars, i can't imagine honda needing you to go any other route.
Old 05-24-2006, 03:17 PM
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Default Re: (cynistersix)



gonna give it a try
Old 05-24-2006, 05:37 PM
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Default Re: (slowater427)

Okay i got the rca's run back under the carpet to the trunk fine ...

but the ground wire thats hooked up above the right back tire isnt working.

I know because the ground wire hooked up above the back left tire works fine.
The left ground pushes the amp for the subs fine and the amp for the speakers fine.

but the right side ground wont push either.

WHAT DO I DO?
im gonna see if i can replace the wire...
Old 05-24-2006, 05:54 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">considering this is a forum for questions B18C_EJ8.. i dont see the need for the "not hard of a concept" remark</TD></TR></TABLE>

Boo hoo. Have your mommy get you a tissue.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the ground wire thats hooked up above the right back tire isnt working.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pull your terminal (ring, fork whatever) and verify that you have a clean spot of metal (no paint), and make sure there's no rubber bushing between the nut and the steel, as I'm assuming by "above the tire" you mean the shock/strut tower... Just ensure you have a good ground, and you could even measure the resistance on that ground point with a meter if you've got one...

There, is that better, LSRacing? Does that meet your approval?
Old 05-24-2006, 06:42 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

yea, i just had to clean all the dirt off the metal and the ring and now its workin. Subs sound good.

Im just wondering:
would the quality of the ground affect the volume or sound quality of the subs?
or is it just black and white- it works or it doesnt.


Thanks 4 the help guys.


oh and B18_EJ8 your 1st post didnt help for ****... thanks for being a smartass. everyone elses REAL tips helped alot.
Old 05-24-2006, 08:05 PM
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Default Re: (slowater427)

anywayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy.


yes, its possible for the ground to affect the performance of how the subwoofers are going to sound to a certain extent. the better the ground the cleaner the power. its important to have a clean piece of metal with no paint or rubber interfering with the metal to metal contact. a good grounding point could also ensure that you have no ground loops, or alternator whine, engine whine, etc.
Old 05-24-2006, 08:40 PM
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Default Re: (LSRracing95)

really? wow. ok. im gonna clean it up even more then. I thought i noticed that the sound wasnt as good with this ground then when it was running off of the left side ground.

good information.
Old 05-25-2006, 04:16 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh and B18_EJ8 your 1st post didnt help for ****... thanks for being a smartass</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sniff sniff... And, you're welcome.
Old 05-25-2006, 11:12 AM
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Default Re: (slowater427)

no problem at all.. let me know if you need anymore help.

just like i said before, make sure that you run the rca's away from all other wiring (with the exception of the remote turn on) in the future.. this will usually cause interference with the sound and you may have unwanted noise.

also, try to keep your grounds as short as possible. you may even put both of your grounds to the same bolt.
Old 05-25-2006, 06:21 PM
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Default Re: (slowater427)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowater427 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh and B18_EJ8 your 1st post didnt help for ****... thanks for being a smartass. everyone elses REAL tips helped alot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It seemed pretty straight forward concept to me. lift the carpet. run the wiring, lay the carpet down.
Old 05-25-2006, 07:08 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seemed pretty straight forward concept to me. lift the carpet. run the wiring, lay the carpet down.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

But you forget that people like to be coddled and have everything spelled out for them with pictures and such...
Old 05-25-2006, 07:30 PM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But you forget that people like to be coddled and have everything spelled out for them with pictures and such... </TD></TR></TABLE>

you forget that this IS a forum for help with car audio, etc. and there should really be nothing said unless its to help someone out
im not looking to fight but its things like these that make this site so much less informational
Old 05-26-2006, 04:21 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not looking to fight but its things like these that make this site so much less informational </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, it's people that are lazy and don't want to figure things out for themselves, and it's people who can't use the search function.
Old 05-26-2006, 07:30 AM
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Default Re: (B18C_EJ8)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove trim pieces. Pull carpet up. Put wire underneath. Push carpet back down. Reinstall trim. Not that hard of a concept.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Old 05-26-2006, 07:56 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 »
Remove trim pieces. Pull carpet up. Put wire underneath. Push carpet back down. Reinstall trim. Not that hard of a concept.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm... Third person to agree with this procedure...
Old 05-27-2006, 08:42 AM
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Default Re: (LSRracing95)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you forget that this IS a forum for help with car audio, etc. and there should really be nothing said unless its to help someone out
im not looking to fight but its things like these that make this site so much less informational</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its unfortunate that people no longer attempt to figure anything out for themselves. I've stripped the entire interior out of my car and i didnt have an instruction manual. I looked at the car, thought about what might need to come out, then removed what needed to come out. Removing the carpet is about as complicated as putting on a pair of pants.
Old 05-27-2006, 09:15 AM
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Default Re: (EBP_SI)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EBP_SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its unfortunate that people no longer attempt to figure anything out for themselves. I've stripped the entire interior out of my car and i didnt have an instruction manual. I looked at the car, thought about what might need to come out, then removed what needed to come out. Removing the carpet is about as complicated as putting on a pair of pants. </TD></TR></TABLE> Well a pair of pants with suspenders anyway. 94
Old 05-27-2006, 12:16 PM
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Default Re: (LSRracing95)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just like i said before, make sure that you run the rca's away from all other wiring (with the exception of the remote turn on) in the future.. this will usually cause interference with the sound and you may have unwanted noise.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

?????

how come running the RCA next to the remote wire is okay, but not the power wire. i dont understand this concept.


Modified by GSteg at 9:33 PM 5/27/2006
Old 05-27-2006, 12:19 PM
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Oh man which reminds me. I remember i took apart my acura legend's intake manifold (not your average honda 4cyl's manifold), and the whole cylinder head without a manual. LMAO. I just started yankin' out everything until I got where I wanted. I had engine parts all over the ground and so many different bolts/nuts in a cup. I still can't figure out how I was able to put it all back without a missing/extra bolts/nuts. I did break a bolt though because i over-torqued, but eh, it wasn't that important. LMAO
Old 05-27-2006, 12:20 PM
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The current in the remote wire is small and constant. The current in the power wire will be much greater and will be changing depending on the signal. Changing currents create electric and magnetic fields (greater current, greater field). That field will then be picked up by the RCAs (creating a voltage) and amplified. So a constant current in the remote wire will not generate any fields around it.
Old 05-27-2006, 12:42 PM
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If that is true, then it wouldn't matter if the RCA is next to the power wire correct?

The chassis of the car is the biggest conductor of electricity. It's a big power wire. When your car is off, your battery's negative post becomes the negative supply. When your car's engine is running, the alternator's case becomes the negative supply. Since the alternator is grounded to the car's chassis, that means there will always be current traveling through the chassis, and since the alternator's output varies with engine speed, the current that is grounding to the chassis is always changing. Applying your theory, this change in current will create that magnetic field, thefore it woudln't matter where you place the RCA because it's right next to the biggest sources of noise, the chassis.

A bigger noise ripple indicates a better healthier charging system, so if there is very little current/noise that passes the chassis, that means your charging system isn't as healthy. Then again, this is before we troubleshoot ground-loop.

I guess it now depends on if you're running 99 cent RCAs, or a higher quality RCA.

Old 05-27-2006, 12:49 PM
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Default Re: (GSteg)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and since the alternator's output varies with engine speed, the current that is grounding to the chassis is always changing. Applying your theory, this change in current will create that magnetic field</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not exactly. The magnitude of the field is determined by di/dt. The faster the current changes, the greater the field. The current varying with engine speed will not create a strong enough field to have much of an effect.

You also have to look at current density. Fields are proportional to current density. Let's say that your power wire is carrying 40 amps of current. And the wire is the size of your pinky. That's a lot of current in a small area, meaning high current density. The chassis, on the other hand, is huge. That same 40 amps thru the chassis means very little current in any one area of the chassis.

The same field will be generated by the current thru the wire as by the current thru the chassis. But the field from the wire will be concentrated around the wire, while the field from the chassis will be spread out over the whole car.


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