jb.

So I got an 11kv.2 speaker last year hooked up to a JL 500/1 since I already had the amp. It was in a custom FG box of about .55 cubic feet and the gain on the amp was set just under half way. I believe it was getting around 300 watts. The speaker has a warranty and I sent it and they said it was overpowered causing it to blow.

Here is a link to the speaker information: http://www.edesignaudio.com/pr...id=30

They sent me some pictures of the speaker internals:









When I upgraded to this speaker, I was told it would work with a 500/1, and I made sure to keep the power down. What do you guys think? TIA

fcm

The amps wattage is well within the speakers limits, by the look of the VC the speaker is bottoming out, [over-excursion] due to an improper vented box design or a leaking sealed box. 94

jb.

Thanks for the reply. It was in a sealed FG spare tire box that we raised up 1.5 inches using 2 rings of 3/4" MDF as the baffle. I was pretty sure it was sealed; I did the water test, and we sealed the MDF to the FG with lots of caulking/glue (liquid nail type).

Could you recommend a speaker of a similar dimension and power handling?

fcm

There are a lot of subs that will be the same "dimension" and power handling, finding one that will work in a .55cuft gross cabinet may be a little harder.

The Alpine SWR-1042... http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-e...1022D will work in a 0.5cuft gross cabinet but 0.65cuft gross is optimum, mounting diameter is 9.1" and it is a 500W sub. 94

jb.

im still on the fence on whether or not i want to even continue have a sub in my car b/c I am tired of this ****

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jb. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im still on the fence on whether or not i want to even continue have a sub in my car b/c I am tired of this ****</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto that, been there done that, I have not had a sub in my car since 1994, I get all the bass I need from my 6.5" speakers, I don't even have an off-board amp, just HU power, although I will be going with an amp and new 6.5" speakers after the rebuild. 94

H22CB7

no matter the gain level you still sending 500 watts to the sub, the gain is only adjusting the RCA level. i would have used a digital multi meter to set the gain properly instead of doing it by ear to be safer.

jb.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22CB7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no matter the gain level you still sending 500 watts to the sub, the gain is only adjusting the RCA level. i would have used a digital multi meter to set the gain properly instead of doing it by ear to be safer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's the problem though. The speaker is supposed to be able to handle 450 no problem, and I know it was less than that. Some are even pushing 550-600 to them. The fact that there is a 3 year warranty and they do not want to cover it; i do not want to pay $45 for a rebuild plus shipping when the chances of it going out are high.

radiuslight

no no
Don't listen to these people man!
Alpine? you recommended alpine for a sub............leave this site at once!
Alpine makes good stereos and equalizers and thats it!

nah man
you want something good?something thats gonna last?
get yourself a Rockford Fosgate Punch sub
I dont know what your set up is but they got all kinds of subs!
2-4-8 ohms Single or Dual Coil

I'm probably gonna get attacked for this!
Hey I say Rockford,MTX, Kicker or JL Audio subs! QUALITY!!

Pioneer Kenwood Alpine Sony
all those brands suck hard when it comes to bass!

radiuslight

also
The speaker you have says dual Voice coil
The amp you got is 1 channel right?
dont wanna jump to conclusions........how did you hook up a dual coil to a one channel........maybe that there is the problem!

nsxxtreme

You have to remember power levels are rated for specific box designs. If the box was the improper size or ported to the wrong frequency you can reduce power handling. From looking at that coil and you saying it was a sealed box I would suspect the incorrect volume box was used.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22CB7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no matter the gain level you still sending 500 watts to the sub, the gain is only adjusting the RCA level. i would have used a digital multi meter to set the gain properly instead of doing it by ear to be safer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Although I agree that a meter is the best way to set up an amps gain, you are wrong about the output being 500W regardless of the gain position.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by radiuslight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also
The speaker you have says dual Voice coil
The amp you got is 1 channel right?
dont wanna jump to conclusions........how did you hook up a dual coil to a one channel........maybe that there is the problem!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea you know what your talking about., and your telling me to leave the site,
"Alpine? you recommended alpine for a sub............leave this site at once"

I am not sure anybody should be taking any advice from a no0b that does not know how to wire a DVC sub to a mono block amp.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jb. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's the problem though. The speaker is supposed to be able to handle 450 no problem, and I know it was less than that. Some are even pushing 550-600 to them. The fact that there is a 3 year warranty and they do not want to cover it; i do not want to pay $45 for a rebuild plus shipping when the chances of it going out are high.</TD></TR></TABLE> As mentioned by both myself and nsxxtreme
speakers rated power handling and the amp driving it is unlikely the problem, more then likely it was the cabinet.
The other possibility, other then a defective sub or amp, is current, [power] to the amp, although because of the VC condition I would suspect the cabinet as the problem, [net volume for that sub or a sealed cabinet that is not airtight], the burnt tinsel leads, [on the spider] would indicate a clipping amp, possibly caused by poor current to the amp, and DC to the VC would explain the over-excursion of the cone
I would definitely check all four possibilities, [net volume, airtight cabinet, current to the amp, defective amp]. 94

alphalanos

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by radiuslight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also
The speaker you have says dual Voice coil
The amp you got is 1 channel right?
dont wanna jump to conclusions........how did you hook up a dual coil to a one channel........maybe that there is the problem!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please just stop talking. You have no clue what you're talking about.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphalanos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please just stop talking. You have no clue what you're talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>You noticed that too? I'm waiting for the reply. 94

jb.

Dont worry about radiuslight, i would never follow that advice.

FCM as far as checking all 4 possibilities, I am going to recheck the volume, and to make sure it is airtight. The current to the amp should be fine. I use to have a dig. cap hooked up when I had my 10w7 in there. It was reading ~12.7 all the time. As far as a defective amp, I dont think so b/c it ran the 10w7 just fine.

So I am narrowing it down to volume, the cabinet being air tight, and/or a defective speaker.

Green2000CivicEx

Wow, some people don't even need to reply to ****.
ed makes good stuff, but their warranty sucks. They have been denying warranty claims for various reasons in order to keep costs down. I have had ed subs in the past and I was pleased with them, but I would never buy another ed product based on their current customer service.
With that being said, it appears that the sub was being pushed past its limits. Most larger companies will honor their warranty regardless of this, so perhaps you should look into some offerings from those companies.

Now, as far as Rockford being great and Alpine being crap. Alpine is overpriced on a lot of things, but they do make excellent subwoofers. I would run a type E sub over a Punch 2 any day of the week. Rockford HAS improved their offerings by building their speakers in China, but the P1 and P2 subs are still nothing to brag about. When you get into the P3 and Power lines though, you are getting a pretty decent product.

Depending on your budget you can find a sub to suit your needs from a variety of manufacturers. If you are looking for a good price on a good sub right now, Oz audio just went out of business and you can find a lot of their Matrix Elite subs for VERY cheap prices. No warranty, but just a heads up.

jb.

Ok,

So I have started to look around for a speaker again. I have found these:

Polk MM1040
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM10...111&tab=review

MA Audio HK1001F
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_067MA10...ures_and_specs

or possibly a JL 10w3
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W3...ures_and_specs

Anyone use MA audio before? I could always buy it a return it if not happy from crutchfield. Im not sure about the polk b/c it has a lower rms.

How much clearance should I be looking to have behind the magnet and the end of the box?

fcm

Go with the JL Audio 10W3v2, but check for impedance, the 10W3v2 is a DVC sub, [even though Crutchfield indicates it is not]...
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10W3v2_MAN.pdf

Clearance behind magnet is not needed unless sub has a vented pole piece, if sub has a vented pole piece, the clearance needs to be at least the diameter of the vent. 94

jb.

Thanks for the reply. Running off a 500/1 and panasonic HU, I dont see the problem with impedance.

fcm

With a JL Audio 500/1 only how the VCs are wired would be an issue. 94

jb.

the 500/1 can run fine powering 2 ohms. The 10w3 comes in both 2 and 4 ohms, and 8 I believe. Just running 1 speaker should be fine. The 500/1 was designed for 1.5-3 ohms to work best.

fcm

As I said when using the 500/1 the only issue would be how the VCs are wired, the 500/1 will produce 1x500W RMS into 1.5 - 4 ohms @ 11V-14.5V, [regulated power supply].

The 10W3v2 is avalable in DVC 2 ohm, 4 ohm and 6 ohms, there is no SVC 10W3, the best possible one for you would be the 10W3v2-D2, [DVC 2 ohm] so you can wire the VCs is series for a 4 ohm load. 94

jb.

Thanks for the info. Crutchfield listed them as Single Voice Coil. Maybe the 10w3 v3 are single and the 10w3v2 you listed was DVC

fcm

Nope... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=24

All 10W3 subs a DVC, the one show on Crutchfield is probably a DVC 2 ohm, "W3v3 Series 10" 2-ohm subwoofer" and that would be fine, it could be a DVC 4 ohm and they are giving you the load when VCs are wired in parallel. 94

Hamstr323

I love these but I have no idea what your budget is or size of box

http://www.criticalmassaudio.com/cat...d&productId=29