doublethink

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricerr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally, I don't like charging the capacitor before installing it. **** sparks like crazy if it is charged, and I have never blown even a small fuse by charging the cap in the car.

Just make sure you pull the main fuse out until the install is complete. Something you should do on every install anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, NEVER had a problem with it. Always expected to, never did. Weird huh?

Then again I've never done a 1/2 farad on a 10 awg system where a smaller fuse might be present, i only really use the full one farads on 4 awg systems, and usually those have two amps, and i install it before the distribution blocks.

come to think of it, that whole long thread mentioned nothing of the impotrance of rear fuses and distribution blocks for multiple amps, OR battery isolators for chaining multiple batteries.

SDchargers

Can anyone explain how battery isolators work and the benefits and/or drawbacks. I was hoping that would be covered or explained. If anyone can explain how to install one for 2 batteries that would be very helpful.

rey98civic

Wow this is by far the best online car audio info thread I have ever read! Awesome write up!!

ScareyH22A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spark plugs. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree completely with what you're saying, but there are those out there who either have NO experience with soldering or just won't be bothered and would rather use electrical tape. i don't recommend it. There are also a few instances (i'm not feeling to really think of any) where using a little electrical tape is necessary.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would recommend electrical tape to reinforce RCA to RCA connections and to keep cables together to run them throughout the vehicle.

Forgiveness

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SDchargers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone explain how battery isolators work and the benefits and/or drawbacks. I was hoping that would be covered or explained. If anyone can explain how to install one for 2 batteries that would be very helpful.</TD></TR></TABLE>

heavy duty isolators allow charging multiple batteries automatically from one or two alternators, and prevent discharge or "dumping" of one battery into another. Each battery is charged according to its need without overcharging.

nsxxtreme

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Forgiveness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

heavy duty isolators allow charging multiple batteries automatically from one or two alternators, and prevent discharge or "dumping" of one battery into another. Each battery is charged according to its need without overcharging.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Battery Isolators are just that Isolaters they aren't regulators. This function gets done by the voltage regulator inside the alternator. So the not "overcharging" isn't entirely true if you have a faulty voltage regulator.

I wouldn't recommend an isolator unless you have upgraded your alternator. Adding a seperate battery only adds an additional load on your current setup. You will only get reserve power this way.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Battery Isolators are just that Isolaters they aren't regulators. This function gets done by the voltage regulator inside the alternator. So the not "overcharging" isn't entirely true if you have a faulty voltage regulator.

I wouldn't recommend an isolator unless you have upgraded your alternator. Adding a seperate battery only adds an additional load on your current setup. You will only get reserve power this way.</TD></TR></TABLE>I have to agree. 94

willyboyK20

I got a question for ya, its reguarding my system i about to purchase.

I want to purchase two 10" pioneer dvc's (4 ohms) and the power rating is 350w rms. Now I have a BOSS two channel amp that i will be bridging and it will be seeing a 4 ohm load because i will be wiring the two 10's in parallel.

Now the amp is rated at 800 watts bridged in 4 ohms and 400 watts x 2 at 2 ohms (it says max power not rms for the 2 ohm load). My question is how much power will the the two subs be getting by being connected to the bridged channel?

Mordeki

my LCD monitors reverse the picture....any thoughts? I bought them used and I'm assuming they were used as a rearview monitor, and it's probably a switchable feature through the remote only. What can I do? There is one wire not hooked up that is labeled "back"...any clue what this is for? Or even if you know where inside the case I can manually switch this myself. Any help is much appreciated

touge_dorifuto

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by willyboyD16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a question for ya, its reguarding my system i about to purchase.

I want to purchase two 10" pioneer dvc's (4 ohms) and the power rating is 350w rms. Now I have a BOSS two channel amp that i will be bridging and it will be seeing a 4 ohm load because i will be wiring the two 10's in parallel.

Now the amp is rated at 800 watts bridged in 4 ohms and 400 watts x 2 at 2 ohms (it says max power not rms for the 2 ohm load). My question is how much power will the the two subs be getting by being connected to the bridged channel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The way I understand it, the amp will see 2 ohms, not 4, when you wire it parallel. on the reverse it be 8 ohms serial.

derictolen24

i need help on a cd player for a acura 1996 TL when i put in a cd on the display it says CDPEO what does that means or what do i have to do

Ncideas

hi-

I just bought a new Civic EX. I decided to leave the factory head unit in the car and put an amp in the trunk to power the rear speakers and a sub.

I need to know where the best place is to tie into the remote turn-on. I had the glove compartment out and was looking at the factory harness leading to the factory HU. I know that the remote lead is usually blue in color, but the factory radio harness had both a blue and and blue with red stripe colored wire. I would prefer not to damage or strip any of the factory harness, but I don't know if this is possible.

I can remember long ago seeing pink wires leading to a car's factory HU, so I don't take anything for granted. I would like to know if someone pretty familiar with the color scheme of these Civic HU harnesses could lend me a hand. I suppose I could buy one of those conversion harnesses and look at the instructions, but maybe someone out there has a better idea.

Thanks in advance.

Forgiveness

is that when you put in ANY cd or just burned cds? the tl cd player has been known to read that when you insert a burned cd. try cleaning it, otherwise, i wouldn't waste my time with a stock head unit. replace the bitch.

Forgiveness

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ncideas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi-

I just bought a new Civic EX. I decided to leave the factory head unit in the car and put an amp in the trunk to power the rear speakers and a sub.

I need to know where the best place is to tie into the remote turn-on. I had the glove compartment out and was looking at the factory harness leading to the factory HU. I know that the remote lead is usually blue in color, but the factory radio harness had both a blue and and blue with red stripe colored wire. I would prefer not to damage or strip any of the factory harness, but I don't know if this is possible.

I can remember long ago seeing pink wires leading to a car's factory HU, so I don't take anything for granted. I would like to know if someone pretty familiar with the color scheme of these Civic HU harnesses could lend me a hand. I suppose I could buy one of those conversion harnesses and look at the instructions, but maybe someone out there has a better idea.

Thanks in advance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

off the top of my head i can think of 4 options.

1. get a diagram for the wiring of the radio harness and figure out which is the turn-on wire. tap into that.

2. tap into the accessories wire on the ignition

3. run a wire from the fuse box

4. (the easiest) run a seperate power wire for it, fuse it, and put a switch. that also gives you a bass kill-switch.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ncideas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hi-

I just bought a new Civic EX. I decided to leave the factory head unit in the car and put an amp in the trunk to power the rear speakers and a sub.

I need to know where the best place is to tie into the remote turn-on. I had the glove compartment out and was looking at the factory harness leading to the factory HU. I know that the remote lead is usually blue in color, but the factory radio harness had both a blue and and blue with red stripe colored wire. I would prefer not to damage or strip any of the factory harness, but I don't know if this is possible.

I can remember long ago seeing pink wires leading to a car's factory HU, so I don't take anything for granted. I would like to know if someone pretty familiar with the color scheme of these Civic HU harnesses could lend me a hand. I suppose I could buy one of those conversion harnesses and look at the instructions, but maybe someone out there has a better idea.

Thanks in advance.</TD></TR></TABLE>Here you go http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/HA-Wiring.pdf you will also have an ign. and acc. output on the fuse box, what year is the car, brand new, 05? 94

92ehatch

im gonna add something about impedance (ohms)

the formula you gave i alwas thought to be somewhat difficult to understand, here is how i do it and it always comes out correct

wiring in series....

impedance of sub 1 + impedance of sub two = total impedance

lets take two 4 ohm subs

4 ohm + 4 ohm= 8 ohm

wiring in parallel....

impedance of sub 1 x impedance of sub 2 / impedance of sub 1 + impedance of sub 2

again two 4 ohm subs

4 ohm x 4 ohm = 16 4 ohm + 4 ohm = 8 ohm = 16/8 = 2 ohm

hope that makes it easier

G2turbo_terror

Link doesn't work anymore


Modified by G2turbo_terror at 7:51 PM 3/19/2007

StorminMatt

I would like to add something about amplifier power. There are no laws in the books that hold a manufacturer to their power specs. It is for this reason that you find such things as Kraco 'power boosters' that measure six inches by six inches by one inch, have no heat sink, have a 16 gauge power lead, and yet claim 500 watts of output. Of course, most amps may not be THIS extreme as far as exaggerating power outputs. But a good way to see how truthful a manufacturer is about power outputs is to take a look at the fuse size on the power cable or on/in the amp itself. If there are multiple fuses, then the fuse size can be taken to be the sum of the sizes of each fuse. Then multiply this value by 13.8 volts (to be conservative). This gives you the MAXIMUM power the amp can draw at the instant it blows a fuse. And based on the first law of thermodynamics, any RMS power ratings above this figure are absolute BS! If they are below this figure, then multiply this figure by a factor of about .6. The figure of .6 represents the efficiency of your average amp. In other words, a typical amp converts 60% of input power into useful output, and the other 40% into heat. Once again, if the figure that you arrive at is below the rated RMS output by ALOT, then the ratings they give are BS. Even if the figure is above, but close, there is a good chance the amp can't make good on the manufacturer's claim. After all, the figure you came up with is sufficiently high to blow a fuse! So an amp can NEVER really put this out. On the other hand, some amps might be significantly more efficient than 60%, which works in the amp's favor. But regardless, if the raw figure of 13.8 volts times the fuse rating is BELOW the rated RMS output (which it usually is on highly overrated amps), you will NEVER see that particular amp even come close to the stock specs in terms of power output.

Skip01

^^^^^^^^
This is always why i buy i amp with a birthsheet.

B18C_EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to add something about amplifier power. There are no laws in the books that hold a manufacturer to their power specs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No laws, but there is a new standard for amplifier power ratings. You might want to brush up on the CEA-2006 Standard.

StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No laws, but there is a new standard for amplifier power ratings. You might want to brush up on the CEA-2006 Standard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am aware of that standard. But as you know, it is voluntary. And it doesn't apply to older amps you might buy used.

B18C_EJ8

You made a broad, generalized statement about amplifier power. That's why I posted what I did. You gave good info, but should've put something in excluding the new amps that are CEA-2006 compliant... It's all good though...

92ehatch

did a writeup, check it out

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1467453

7808

http://the12volt.com/ &lt;- thought this may help alot of people, under vehicle wiring you can get diagrams for alarms and stereo wiring for almost every car

Jacen

In my process of fixing my system I found this, might be useful for noise problems