Reyes

iTrader: (1)

I am using the Eibach Multi-Pro R2 coilovers.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

So I should have realized this early on... But the AEM Coil on plug kit is not compatible with the Honda S300. Or anything that piggybacks on the OE ECU. Luckily I have a friend with a Hondata COP setup who is looking to get the AEM, so we are trading.

A few updates..

INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES.
I finished the interior door handle for the driver side. I was going to re-use the stock linkage, but it broke so I had to come up with something different. When sitting in the car, if you push the black handle forward it will open the door. The tape on the handle glows in the dark so the handle can be seen at night. I also installed those fancy GT3 "Style" door pulls. I will be doing this same setup on the passenger side.

COOLING SYSTEM
Because the radiator cap has been moved, the overflow tank needs to be moved also. This is just a mock up, but I like where it's going.
-4 AN fitting welded to overflow port, steel braided line to overflow tank on firewall. This setup would also put the reservoir slightly higher than the cap so it would help to make sure the system is always full.

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

I like that door idea. I need to find something to tie mine together. The old way; tab welded to the arm eventually wore that bushing out, so it'd fall out often. I've got a new, outer door handle in, but no idea on exactly how I'm going to set it up.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

It was pretty easy, I'll text you some pics later. I could probably make you some if you want.

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

I don't have the top portion of the door like you do, that's the issue. Before, it was a cable going to the welded lever and it was fine. Just so many pulls and it went blind, I mean, got worn out.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Oh gotcha!
you could probably do a simple linkage like this but maybe mount the lever on your door bars?

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

After talking about the radiator setup with a friend of mine, I was informed that making this setup work properly could be difficult. (He tried on his EK and had overheating issues on track). So if this is going to work, it is going to need very good ducting. The duct that I have is great, but slightly over sized. I opened up the inlet that sits behind the bumper so it will pull air from the entire opening of the bumper. Then cut the top of the duct off so I can remake it to sit flush with the top of the radiator.

The next step after this will be to make the ducting on the rear of the radiator to direct the air up through and out of the hood. That part will be difficult since it will need to let the heat from the header out as well.

Once finished in aluminum, I plan to make these into molds so I can re-make them in fiberglass or carbon to reduce heat soak.

I also finished the Valve cover breather lines.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

I spent most of last night trying to figure out the engine bay side of the ducting. Because the header is so close it is going to be difficult to make something that flows well, I think that by changing the diameter of the outlet, I should be able to increase the velocity to help pull the air out of the duct.

The other hard part is that I want the duct to also pull the hot air from the header, so I will need to build around that also.

Here is the initial idea.

PS. Wear gloves.

...esteban

as an armchair engineer, I think you're gonna want to expand the duct beyond the radiator to lower the pressure, thus raising the exit velocity of the air. I think you'll get a bit pressure on the front side of the radiator, so that might help a bit.

Gonna be tricky with the space you have, but I believe in you.

PS: wear some gloves will yea?

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that was a concern of mine too. After talking to Henry at KazeSpec Engineering (who also made my endplates) I think an "S" shaped duct is my best option. This should allow for smoother air flow and would allow me to make better use of the space that I do have. So Rev2 will be coming along shortly.

for anyone may want some custome aero work, or endplates for their wing, I would talk to Henry.
Services | KazeSpec Engineering

KazeSpecEng

Looking good Jared!

-Henry

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

So here is the 2nd attempt at this. I was able to modify the front of the duct to let the radiator move about 1 inch forward. Then make a trip down to the hardware store for some HVAC supplies.

I like this version much better than the one in yesterday's post. The "S" shape should allow for the air to more through the radiator with less pressure on the backside. I decided to use the shape of the hood as the top of the duct. This version also has better header clearance.

...esteban

atta boy.

I was thinking you could use paper board to make some endplate shapes and then transfer the best fit to aluminum sheets, but it appears you work quicker than that.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

So after a LOT of reading on radiator efficiency, design etc. and the NASA rule book. I think I am going to abort the "tucked" radiator idea all together and go back to my old full size Griffin radiator. Here is why.

1. The idea of pushing the radiator forward was to gain room in the engine bay. But if all of this ducting needed, then I will actually lose room.

2. A larger cooling surface area is more effective than a smaller/thicker core.

3. Legality in NASA is debatable and would most likely need to be changed.

4. I never had cooling issues to begin with and know that the other system works.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Over the weekend I traded my AEM COP for the Honda system.

I re-loomed the harness and trimmed the mounting tabs on the J-series coils so they fit into the valve cover. just need to make a plate to cover them/hold them in place.

Bently_Coop

Ducting is kewl looking, all that work to go back to what you already used though kind of sucks for the wasted time.

How were you going to get the air out from under the hood? GT500 scoop? J's racing hood or similar?

Edit: checked first page and saw the J's hood.

...esteban

Good call on the Integra/fullsize radiator.

To help justify your decision, I would like to add that mass flow rate (mdot) = rho (density of air) * velocity of the fluid * area. I think any gains due to an increase in velocity will be far smaller than the increase in surface area.

Oh, and it works you say? Well then.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it sucks to walk away from the time and money I had into this setup, but I went into this knowing that there was a chance it wouldn't work.

I do have a J's hood, and I also have a carbon hood and a mold to make my own hood ducting.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Agreed, I can even add a small amount of ducting to the full size radiator to make it even more efficient. it will also let me use the OEM bumper support and tow hook that I was using before.

Bently_Coop

Have you seen the GT500 vents people use? I may go with that on my EF project with SIR hood and H2B swap.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I like that vent. I prefer something that goes down into the bay a little to better direct the air. But anything helps. My oil temps dropped about 8 degrees on track with nothing other than a vented hood. A little ducting could go a long way.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Haven't had many updates lately. Just trying to sell a few things to avoid too much money coming out of the bank.

Since I need to re-pin one wire on the ECU, and bought this COP kit used, I had to order a few OBD1 ECU pins to finish the install. While waiting for that to arrive, I cut up a piece of carbon that I have to make an ECU mounting plate since the cage blocks the OE mounting location.

I also broke down and bought a Moroso 5.5qt oil pan with trap door baffles. I used gold reflective heat tape to avoid heat soak from the header. This is the high quality heat barrier that was developed for Indy car and F1. This company claims as much as a 70 degree temp difference, and only needs a 1mm gap from the heat source.

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)

What brand of gold tape is that? I could use some on my car.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Here you go.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=11221

And I believe this is the companies website.
Heat Reflective Film at Thermal Protection, Inc.

Reyes

iTrader: (1)

Updates have been slow lately.

The tucked radiator setup has been sold. My old full size radiator was re-installed and now has a hole in it. so the car is not currently drivable.

I was able to get the car started with the Hondata Coil on plug setup.

And the big news is this. The new Racepak IQ3 data logger! This reads all engine vitals from the Hondata S300v3. I am adding external oil pressure, oil temp and transmission temp sensors. I am also using their USM module that will let me see fuel levels.

There will be a full write up on the install and setup of this unit.