Evan's build thread- J32A2 V6 EH3 build-up
12-04-2008, 02:15 PM
#151
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Evan is my HERO. 
Hey bro, once this is done, I gotta see how it stacks up against my Z on the track. :X
I might have to dip back in the Honda scene to build one of these..hahahaha
.
Hey bro, once this is done, I gotta see how it stacks up against my Z on the track. :X
I might have to dip back in the Honda scene to build one of these..hahahaha
.
12-04-2008, 07:45 PM
#153
Solbros Owns Me
Thread Starter
Wow, took forever for me to find this thread again Just waiting to get my axles back.
Turntune: I'm not aware that D16A6 inner joints fit the J series diff/int shaft... The inner joint configuration of the J series uses a different style bearings as opposed to the F/H/B/D....that why you must use the J inner joint, J shaft, and respline from 32spline count to a 30 spline count(and shorten the shaft), to fit the outer joint compatible with the Civic/Integra hubs. You could run JDM ITR 36mm hubs, but the axles will still need to be shortened.
The stock axles are about 1/2" different in length. With the way my engine sits, each shaft needs to be shortened by about 33mm(from outer joint circlip groove to new groove, with smaller splines). I'll post pics for better clarification. My hot rod shop is doing both axles for 90 bucks
It's super tough to find the 6 speed, but there are MANY in junk yards. I know of 4 trans/engine swaps sitting in Seattle junkyards as we speak. But we're talking 1500 for the trans alone.
Next spring, I'll probably go 02-04 Odyssey crank/rods(3.5), 05 RL pistons(11:1 CR), and clean up the CL-S heads...custom intake plenum setup, custom headers, and shoot for 300 whp
Fred, you're my hero too
Just waiting to get my axles back.Turntune: I'm not aware that D16A6 inner joints fit the J series diff/int shaft... The inner joint configuration of the J series uses a different style bearings as opposed to the F/H/B/D....that why you must use the J inner joint, J shaft, and respline from 32spline count to a 30 spline count(and shorten the shaft), to fit the outer joint compatible with the Civic/Integra hubs. You could run JDM ITR 36mm hubs, but the axles will still need to be shortened.
The stock axles are about 1/2" different in length. With the way my engine sits, each shaft needs to be shortened by about 33mm(from outer joint circlip groove to new groove, with smaller splines). I'll post pics for better clarification. My hot rod shop is doing both axles for 90 bucks
It's super tough to find the 6 speed, but there are MANY in junk yards. I know of 4 trans/engine swaps sitting in Seattle junkyards as we speak. But we're talking 1500 for the trans alone.
Next spring, I'll probably go 02-04 Odyssey crank/rods(3.5), 05 RL pistons(11:1 CR), and clean up the CL-S heads...custom intake plenum setup, custom headers, and shoot for 300 whp
Fred, you're my hero too
12-05-2008, 09:01 AM
#154
Solbros Owns Me
Thread Starter
Here's some pics of the axle shafts that need to be modified.
Shown are the J series shafts. One shaft needs shortened 41mm fromt center of old groove to center of new, the other one needs 33mm.
The shafts are 32 spline count, but the B/D outer joints are 30 spline. I am undersized by ALMOST .015"...but I should be OK. Rallitek is undersized almost .020 on their axles, with ZERO issues.
Hopefully I get the shafts back soon, so I can finish building them.
You can see here, the shaft size to go into the outer joint is way too big...this gives me some room for new splines(more materiel)...
Shown are the J series shafts. One shaft needs shortened 41mm fromt center of old groove to center of new, the other one needs 33mm.
The shafts are 32 spline count, but the B/D outer joints are 30 spline. I am undersized by ALMOST .015"...but I should be OK. Rallitek is undersized almost .020 on their axles, with ZERO issues.
Hopefully I get the shafts back soon, so I can finish building them.
You can see here, the shaft size to go into the outer joint is way too big...this gives me some room for new splines(more materiel)...
12-05-2008, 09:30 AM
#155
Honda-Tech Member
It's super tough to find the 6 speed, but there are MANY in junk yards. I know of 4 trans/engine swaps sitting in Seattle junkyards as we speak. But we're talking 1500 for the trans alone.
Next spring, I'll probably go 02-04 Odyssey crank/rods(3.5), 05 RL pistons(11:1 CR), and clean up the CL-S heads...custom intake plenum setup, custom headers, and shoot for 300 whp
12-05-2008, 09:50 AM
#156
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So how do you determine exactly how much the shafts need to be shortened, since CV axles have a length "range" with the inner joint sliding axially? I know on Integra axles, you set the "free" length by adjusting where the small clamp on the inner CV boot tightens around the axle shaft. Before you clamp it down, you can slide the inner joint in and out probably a couple of inches.
12-05-2008, 11:32 AM
#157
Solbros Owns Me
Thread Starter
I used a stock D series shorty axle for mockup.
Since the diff splines are much smaller, I was able to slide the D series axle into the int shaft/trans, until it mated flush with the axle seal(how a stock axle should fit.
Then I installed the other side into the hub. Since I have only 1" of suspension droop in the front, I was able to accurately see how short/long the stock D series was in relation to the new axle I needed.
On the passenger side, the stock D was the perfect length, from wheel hub to axle seal.
On the drivers side, it was about 3/4" too short(you can see even the stock J series axles aren't the same length).
From there, I just took basic measurements, taking into account the different of the circlip groove from each outer joint.
The stock D series axle was exactly 20" from seat to seat.
After marking the J shafts where the new groove needs to be, I measured the depth of the groove in the outer joint, laid the outer joint next to the new shaft in proper location, and remeasured total length...came out perfect for both sides.
I did this with the inner joint in a static neutral position- this gives it room to both move out AND in...making up for suspension movement, sharp turns, etc. I'm confident this is the best way to make the axles. I have all the measurements, and should a joint break, I have plenty to replace. Should the axle snap, just get a new CL axle and shorten it(45/ea)....cheap and using OEM parts
Since the diff splines are much smaller, I was able to slide the D series axle into the int shaft/trans, until it mated flush with the axle seal(how a stock axle should fit.
Then I installed the other side into the hub. Since I have only 1" of suspension droop in the front, I was able to accurately see how short/long the stock D series was in relation to the new axle I needed.
On the passenger side, the stock D was the perfect length, from wheel hub to axle seal.
On the drivers side, it was about 3/4" too short(you can see even the stock J series axles aren't the same length).
From there, I just took basic measurements, taking into account the different of the circlip groove from each outer joint.
The stock D series axle was exactly 20" from seat to seat.
After marking the J shafts where the new groove needs to be, I measured the depth of the groove in the outer joint, laid the outer joint next to the new shaft in proper location, and remeasured total length...came out perfect for both sides.
I did this with the inner joint in a static neutral position- this gives it room to both move out AND in...making up for suspension movement, sharp turns, etc. I'm confident this is the best way to make the axles. I have all the measurements, and should a joint break, I have plenty to replace. Should the axle snap, just get a new CL axle and shorten it(45/ea)....cheap and using OEM parts
12-05-2008, 03:22 PM
#158
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So you were my hero when you started the V6 swap. I've always thought it was going to be the next big thing
And then you posted up that you play rugby. Fuucking sweet!
Would be very interested in any notes you made on the wiring (Which I would imagine would be a lot from the look of your shop and your intelligence in building the thing).
Re-subscribed!
And then you posted up that you play rugby. Fuucking sweet!
Would be very interested in any notes you made on the wiring (Which I would imagine would be a lot from the look of your shop and your intelligence in building the thing).
Re-subscribed!
12-05-2008, 03:28 PM
#159
Solbros Owns Me
Thread Starter
man crush? lulz....
Once I get some time and get everything finished and running, I'll go back over everything.
Wiring was a breeze, doing it the way I did it. Reason why- I had the MT ecu WITH original key and immobilizer unit. So, I am running ALL OBD2 compliant WITH immobilizer, EXCEPT evaporative emissions. Yes, EGR, sec O2, CL-S cat, IAB's, everything.
2 of the 3 ECU plugs are off of the engine harness. There are 2 more plugs off the harness that plug into the CL chassis harness, which then go to main relay, fuse box, and then ECU. I cut the 3rd plug from the car, used stock shock tower plugs where possible(starter signal, main relay power, etc). From there I had to wire in sec O2, IAB's, immobilizer, etc.
A lot of people will run stand alone- but I want stock
Once I get some time and get everything finished and running, I'll go back over everything.
Wiring was a breeze, doing it the way I did it. Reason why- I had the MT ecu WITH original key and immobilizer unit. So, I am running ALL OBD2 compliant WITH immobilizer, EXCEPT evaporative emissions. Yes, EGR, sec O2, CL-S cat, IAB's, everything.
2 of the 3 ECU plugs are off of the engine harness. There are 2 more plugs off the harness that plug into the CL chassis harness, which then go to main relay, fuse box, and then ECU. I cut the 3rd plug from the car, used stock shock tower plugs where possible(starter signal, main relay power, etc). From there I had to wire in sec O2, IAB's, immobilizer, etc.
A lot of people will run stand alone- but I want stock
12-05-2008, 04:37 PM
#161
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Yeah IMHO it's always the biggest challenge, but also the biggest satisfaction to do something custom that LOOKS like it was done that way from the factory. At least to me it is.
Now wait, the V6 tranny is on the driver side, but the D series tranny was on the passenger side. Were you saying that a stock D driver side (long) axle was the correct length for the passenger side axle here?
So the J-series has a long and a short axle like D-series? That's rather odd. I would have figured it would have an intermediate shaft and equal length axles like B-series engines.
I would love to see a shot of the front end of your car from underneath, while it's up on a lift or something.
Now wait, the V6 tranny is on the driver side, but the D series tranny was on the passenger side. Were you saying that a stock D driver side (long) axle was the correct length for the passenger side axle here?
So the J-series has a long and a short axle like D-series? That's rather odd. I would have figured it would have an intermediate shaft and equal length axles like B-series engines.
I would love to see a shot of the front end of your car from underneath, while it's up on a lift or something.
12-05-2008, 05:57 PM
#162
Solbros Owns Me
Thread Starter
V6 trans is on the drivers side, correct.
Go back and read my post I said the stock D series SHORTY(stock passenger) axle was used for mockup on both sides, as the J does use an int shaft. But both half shafts on the J are NOT equal in length, but about 1/2" difference- you can see the difference length of the bare shafts a few posts back.
I have some pics from before that show the oil pan in comparison to the rad support....let me pull them up.
Go back and read my post
I said the stock D series SHORTY(stock passenger) axle was used for mockup on both sides, as the J does use an int shaft. But both half shafts on the J are NOT equal in length, but about 1/2" difference- you can see the difference length of the bare shafts a few posts back.I have some pics from before that show the oil pan in comparison to the rad support....let me pull them up.
12-05-2008, 06:56 PM
#164
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Man crush, eh, maybe
Anyway, the stock sensor is definitely worth it if you go the route you did and buy a complete salvage vehicle. I'd say this is how most people will do v6 swaps for the time being until engines become more readily available.
Can't wait to see more pics/vids of this thing put together in action.
Anyway, the stock sensor is definitely worth it if you go the route you did and buy a complete salvage vehicle. I'd say this is how most people will do v6 swaps for the time being until engines become more readily available.
Can't wait to see more pics/vids of this thing put together in action.
12-10-2008, 11:03 PM
#168
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This is an awesome swap. Ive only seen a j32 in an EG a few times, including P2R's.
If you have any other parts from the CL I might be interested. Ive got an accord and im always looking for stuff to swap out (mainly interior).
If your interested in building the engine, I know of some very useful sites that you could use to weigh out different options, such as heads, piston, crank, etc...
Good Luck on your swap!
If you have any other parts from the CL I might be interested. Ive got an accord and im always looking for stuff to swap out (mainly interior).
If your interested in building the engine, I know of some very useful sites that you could use to weigh out different options, such as heads, piston, crank, etc...
Good Luck on your swap!
12-11-2008, 12:48 PM
#173
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Subscribing because I am on board with doing another project soon. Couple of questions for you EVS-One, if we say have a 3.5 engine from Oddessy, Ridgeline or Saturn Vue-we could use/substitute the CL-S intake mani/tb and engine harness computer and other peripherals- no?
12-11-2008, 05:30 PM
#174
Solbros Owns Me
Thread Starter
Yes, you could...but depending on the year of the block, you may or may not be able to use the CLS-6 trans.
Anyways, got my axles back from the machine shop today...EXCELLENT work I must say.
I will offer these custom axles to ANYONE who is interested. Using ALL OE parts, so replacing anything will be easy- noisey outer joint? break a cage? Just use a spare D series outer joint you have sitting around
Axle lengths are perfect...couldn't be better.
New splines/shortened. Installed new circlip, new grease/boots/clamps, and installed!
Picture without outer boot on, to show fitment. No slop, nice and tight
Bled the cooling system, bled the clutch, installed axles....runs GREAT. I drove it out of the shop to clean the floor, and then drove back in. I don't have my shift box bolted in yet...will do when I have time. Ever since the economy took a dump, I got busier- go figure, huh!
Anyways. REAL test drive soon to come!
Anyways, got my axles back from the machine shop today...EXCELLENT work I must say.
I will offer these custom axles to ANYONE who is interested. Using ALL OE parts, so replacing anything will be easy- noisey outer joint? break a cage? Just use a spare D series outer joint you have sitting around
Axle lengths are perfect...couldn't be better.
New splines/shortened. Installed new circlip, new grease/boots/clamps, and installed!
Picture without outer boot on, to show fitment. No slop, nice and tight
Bled the cooling system, bled the clutch, installed axles....runs GREAT. I drove it out of the shop to clean the floor, and then drove back in. I don't have my shift box bolted in yet...will do when I have time. Ever since the economy took a dump, I got busier- go figure, huh!
Anyways. REAL test drive soon to come!
