raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

what type of engine damage is fixable and how much can I expect to spend( ballpark numbers)

my engine is pretty much toast after that oil pump failure

wondering what parts I should keep and if they are worth fixing

theres no deep grooves anywhere just shaved by tiny particles in bearing surface

cylinder walls are scuffed lightly

cam journals are also scuffed evenly with no deep grooves

my brand fn new cams are scuffed as well also evenly on journals but not lobes(lobes have no wear at all
valve train has no wear also

I just spent 400 dollars fixing the damn valves only to have the head damaged 200 miles later and the whole block toasted because of one stupid fn thing.

and I don't even know what failed first the oil pump or the bearings or the cam journals started shedding because the machine shop messed with cam journals seems like they machined them because there was cross pattern on the head part but they didn't have the cam caps so I have no idea why they did that when I didn't ask them to.cam journals were barely worn.


now I don't know what to do with this sht. and I spent lots of time porting the head and I think I did good because looking at identical setups making less power with stock heads

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

daaammnn, that sucks.

lets see the pics

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I don't even want to look at this **** anymore I had a crowbar in my hand and almos did a vin diesel trick on the car so I went back and had a drink before I did something stupid...

they are definitely scuffed like sand got in it ... im in for a new block and head and probably cams too. just bought the fn things too because my other ones broke so I just lost about 2500 dollars in damages... all because of one stupid thing (200 miles without oil pressure gauge...)
ill post some tomorrow

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

actually it was more like 40 miles with low oil because when I pulled the head the cylinder walls were 100% clean and so were the cam journals..
and I checked oil before I went on that 100 mile drive
drove it for about 30 minutes on the freeway and it didn't make any funny noises because im very **** about it and listen for any kind of noise but it was just acting normal...

heres some pictures

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

so im guessing this head and cams is toast?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Id take it to a machine shop and see what they say..

It doesnt look that bad, but a picture is worth a thousand words.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

this is the shitty part of going fast. lol

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Yep..

trust me, In the past I went with a Brand X fuel pump to save 35 over a Walbro. Ran lean and detonated a sleeve. Had to replace the engine. To save 35 bucks cost me 800 bucks!

The retailer who markets the pumps said "they never had an issue with them." I said, "well heres your first!"

Of course when a part fails, its never because of poor design, or lack of testing before sending to the masses.

Just look at *cough* blox *cough*

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

lol yea they always say "we never had issues before" even though some cases its allover the internet.

just sux when I finally got all the pieces together that I wanted this sht decided to completely fall apart on me...

maybe my insurance case will finally go through I might fix it. insurance and the lawyer both been dragging their asses with this case.

blackeg

alright i definitely ghetto rig stuff on occasion. if this were me, id take some scotchbrite (probably white) to the cam journals and maybe a quick hit with grey scotchbrite to the cams on the journals. clean it up a bit just so there arent any parts that stick out.

brake clean it up and the bolt the cams in a check the tolerance with plastigauge.

while not optimal, a groove in the journal might be ok, but if there are any high spots id be worried. im sure this advice will be negated by someone who knows more than I, but its my take on the matter currently.

good luck my man, if all else fails you can do a k series with bolt ons to make the same power and never crack the valvecover to oil pan. its got me tempted i tell u that.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

yea im starting to lean towards the K

I just love the sound of b series and that its the right engine for the car...
im not digging how k series looks in older cars.
I might just pick up an rsx or something

Skunk2Brian

Cams and cam journals actually don't look TOO bad. Drag a finger nail across them and see if you feel it catch significantly. Ive seen high mileage ones look worse than that and run just fine. If however you find yourself filing your nail down.....you may need a new head.

FlewByU352

Time to sleeve it to 84MM...

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

lol I think its toast. there were pretty big chunks in vtec solenoid filter

but once the b20 is in ill take the gsr to machine shop so they can see if its fixable or not
I hope it is cuz that head cost me a fortune by now and lots of time porting it that I have to do over again with another head


time to buy a jdm itr swap and start with that lol im not buying pieces of engine anymore. full swap and then change what I need that way I know for sure it ran.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I've had those camshafts look like that a lot. I think you're fine, but as Skunk2Brian says, if the finger gets caught big in the journals, head is done. But take it another machine shop completely. Don't go to the same people. get an unbiased opinion.

nospaghetti

Pics dont look too bad. i've run stuff that looked like that. (not sure how it actually is in person) if there are no major scars that you can feel i'd run it.

but thats just me. if it started knocking just put a new crank or get a new block and slap that head on it.

If not let me know if you want to sell it and i'll prob take it.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

took some closeups just now
btw cozy magnifier for android is damn good

I have a good feeling its toast
cams might be saved not sure
this is the worst of the damage

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Buddy Club cams will wear the head out before they get affected. So I'm more than positive that the cams are still good. They're harder than the material of the head.

No more photos and no more guessing or speculation. Get the head inspected. Check how deep the scratches are and go to another machine shop than where you've been going.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Bc3s are cracked and on the shelf these were brand new pro1s that i put in 200 miles ago lol
Im taking it to the shop once the b20 is swapped

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The cams still don't look bad.

Go to a DIFFERENT machine shop. If it takes an hour to get there, it takes an hour to get there. Or... Ship to SpeedFactory. Remember the rules #3 and #6 I sent you in that BOOK.

Runnerdown

I guess I'm loosing track of all the damage, you've had bad boring done, potential valve guide issues, bad oil pump and also had broken cams along the way? I'd start from scratch and eliminate questionable links in the chain. Like shodan said start with a good machine shop.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

yep thats what im doing lol it seems like this whole engine was a weak link.
**** just didnt work no matter how hard i tried. yea once my del sol is up i can drive to tacoma. the mercedes with its 20 mpg is just too expensive now...

im starting from either a complete jdm itr swap or a sleeved gsr block i already have the itr crank and might use the block as a core to resleeve.

the head was the devil mostly. im not taking it to any local shops anymore for sure.

yea everything just came down at once and its done i already parted out half of the engine

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

if i remember the delta cams has some kind of process to fix the worn out journals with shooting melted metal on it and smoothing it again i watched a video on their webpage. the lobes are still 100% new

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

dafuq is goin on
got the ITR crank that I ordered few weeks ago and the guy just threw whole bunch of paper ***** around it. and im thinking its a paper weight now heres what I got in the mail today... my ******* luck again.











and I counted about 6-8 dents on the counterweight corners
he said it was good no damage and pictures seemed legit...


and heres my pistons and cylinder walls also toasty...

jimbo slice

This is just my experience : Whenever I've seen crank counter weights with scuffing like that it's from ejecting a rod out the block. Not saying that is 100% the case here.

I've had to work with cranks like that, and so long as they are straight and balanced it should work well. I don't really want to use them knowing it's seen some catastrophe.. But sometimes we have to work with what we've got.