What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug
#27
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Re: (FastAssEG)
There are a few problems I see with this setup.
Cam gears need to be TODA
Springs need to be designed for TODA cams
Timing belt is rubbing on something, probably a siezed cam tentioner.
Timing belt has slipped, you can see from the raggered edges.
Most probable cause is the valves have touched each other, one has broken off and fucked everything.
Ive had a broken cam belt that smashed 4 valve guides and bent 8 valves. The car was only doing 30 Km/hr
Sorry to see your dead motor.
Cam gears need to be TODA
Springs need to be designed for TODA cams
Timing belt is rubbing on something, probably a siezed cam tentioner.
Timing belt has slipped, you can see from the raggered edges.
Most probable cause is the valves have touched each other, one has broken off and fucked everything.
Ive had a broken cam belt that smashed 4 valve guides and bent 8 valves. The car was only doing 30 Km/hr
Sorry to see your dead motor.
#28
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Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (FastAssEG)
READ MY POST AGAIN, THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT HAPPEND WHAT I DESCRIBED EARLIER, YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO USE TODA VALVE SPRINGS WITH TODA CAMS AND YOU DIDNT, I BET WHAT HAPPENED IS A VALVE GOT STUCK OPEN FOR LONGER THAN IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE OPEN, THERE WAS PISTON TO VALVE CONTACT, THE VALVE HEAD BROKE OFF, EVERYTHING I SAID IN MY EARLIER POST EVEN BEFORE YOU POSTED YOUR PICS IS CORRECT.
YOU USED THE WRONG VAVLE SPRINGS, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!
YOU USED THE WRONG VAVLE SPRINGS, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!
#29
Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (PreStaged12s)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreStaged12s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">READ MY POST AGAIN, THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT HAPPEND WHAT I DESCRIBED EARLIER, YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO USE TODA VALVE SPRINGS WITH TODA CAMS AND YOU DIDNT, I BET WHAT HAPPENED IS A VALVE GOT STUCK OPEN FOR LONGER THAN IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE OPEN, THERE WAS PISTON TO VALVE CONTACT, THE VALVE HEAD BROKE OFF, EVERYTHING I SAID IN MY EARLIER POST EVEN BEFORE YOU POSTED YOUR PICS IS CORRECT.
YOU USED THE WRONG VAVLE SPRINGS, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!</TD></TR></TABLE>
GOD DAMN someones proud of themselves.Lets have a round of applause for him.
Even though you were right don't you think the BOLD CAPS was a little over the top????
YOU USED THE WRONG VAVLE SPRINGS, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!</TD></TR></TABLE>
GOD DAMN someones proud of themselves.Lets have a round of applause for him.
Even though you were right don't you think the BOLD CAPS was a little over the top????
#30
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Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (fkned)
Because people in these forums dont read the whole post and start blurting out useless information and its annoying. I only speak my information from experiance of 4 years as a Honda mechanic and I have seen this situation before and know exactly what happened. Its just frusturating to deal with people that dont know. If you dont know, dont say anything.
#31
Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (PreStaged12s)
Your'e right like before,but still don't be a dick about it,offer your opinion and move on if they don't accept it then thats their problem.caps is yelling here and bold caps is like getting in someones face and screaming at them like a drill sargent understand.It sucks when people don't take advice that you know is right but move on.I will.
#32
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Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (fkned)
those springs ae good for those cams. do u have any idea of the difference between these springs and toda? please these springs have a mx lift of 13mm with the RM retainers. the max lift of these cams is 12.5 how can the spring cause the dmage when the spring wasnt binding, has a higher seat pressure then the toda spring, and is higher qulity?
BTW if that is the toda(PE) belt, i have heared they fray alot at the edges, do a little more inecpectionand take a look or pics of the teeth where theres frays to see if the teeth on the belt show any signs of abuse
BTW if that is the toda(PE) belt, i have heared they fray alot at the edges, do a little more inecpectionand take a look or pics of the teeth where theres frays to see if the teeth on the belt show any signs of abuse
#33
Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (PreStaged12s)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreStaged12s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">READ MY POST AGAIN, THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT HAPPEND WHAT I DESCRIBED EARLIER, YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO USE TODA VALVE SPRINGS WITH TODA CAMS AND YOU DIDNT, I BET WHAT HAPPENED IS A VALVE GOT STUCK OPEN FOR LONGER THAN IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE OPEN, THERE WAS PISTON TO VALVE CONTACT, THE VALVE HEAD BROKE OFF, EVERYTHING I SAID IN MY EARLIER POST EVEN BEFORE YOU POSTED YOUR PICS IS CORRECT.
YOU USED THE WRONG VAVLE SPRINGS, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!</TD></TR></TABLE>
seriously dood you need to chill out, you speak as if the cams will shrivel up and self destruct when its not used with their valve train as well. where as everyone mixes and matchs to what suits their needs.
oh and to answer that other guys question about why metal ended up in all the other cylinders, its cuz once that cylinder is open the other cylinders will suck it out from there because of the vacuum. last time i blew up my engine, one of my pistons shattered, and i was pouring the piston out of my intake manifold the next day,
YOU USED THE WRONG VAVLE SPRINGS, PLAIN AND SIMPLE!</TD></TR></TABLE>
seriously dood you need to chill out, you speak as if the cams will shrivel up and self destruct when its not used with their valve train as well. where as everyone mixes and matchs to what suits their needs.
oh and to answer that other guys question about why metal ended up in all the other cylinders, its cuz once that cylinder is open the other cylinders will suck it out from there because of the vacuum. last time i blew up my engine, one of my pistons shattered, and i was pouring the piston out of my intake manifold the next day,
#34
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Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (Eddiebx)
the problem right now looks to be like a stretched rod bolt or rod in cylinder 3
the piston could've hit the valve when it was open, bent it, then hit it again causing it to break off the valve stem.
you can see that the valve stem is bent and not straight.
the broken valve head then bounced around bending another intake valve and destroying the spark plug.
the cylinder walls look ok, but they will need to be bored and honed
head is not salvageable
the piston could've hit the valve when it was open, bent it, then hit it again causing it to break off the valve stem.
you can see that the valve stem is bent and not straight.
the broken valve head then bounced around bending another intake valve and destroying the spark plug.
the cylinder walls look ok, but they will need to be bored and honed
head is not salvageable
#35
Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (PreStaged12s)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreStaged12s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because people in these forums dont read the whole post and start blurting out useless information and its annoying. I only speak my information from experiance of 4 years as a Honda mechanic and I have seen this situation before and know exactly what happened. Its just frusturating to deal with people that dont know. If you dont know, dont say anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Chill out buddy! The poor guys car is fu*ked, honestly who gives a sh*t if you are right or wrong!? In this case you may have been right, give yourself a pat on the back and move on. Stop being such a know it all MEAT!
Chill out buddy! The poor guys car is fu*ked, honestly who gives a sh*t if you are right or wrong!? In this case you may have been right, give yourself a pat on the back and move on. Stop being such a know it all MEAT!
#36
Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (PreStaged12s)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreStaged12s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its just frusturating to deal with people that dont know. If you dont know, dont say anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think u need take your own advise. If you would do your research you would see that RM valvetrain can handle 13mm+ of lift. so improper valvetrain use is not the cause of this problem.
I think u need take your own advise. If you would do your research you would see that RM valvetrain can handle 13mm+ of lift. so improper valvetrain use is not the cause of this problem.
#37
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spec c cams are not meant to be run at TDC (using stock pullies) cause valves hit each other
the cams have to be dialed in using a dial wheel and degree guage...
they have to be at 1mm of lift at a certain degree.
the cams have to be dialed in using a dial wheel and degree guage...
they have to be at 1mm of lift at a certain degree.
#38
Re: (HypeR1004)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HypeR1004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, after 3 hours, we pulled off the head and found a valve head embedded into the cylinder head
</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 hrs, they doggin it on your dime. the whole situation is unfortunate, i feel your pain, it really must be a huge drain on you and your wallet. i am in vancouver as well, you really have find those who are truly capable of working on your car, some shops should just stick to internet sales and not attempt to do work greater than installing lowering springs. you really have to do all the research yourself, have the machine work done by one of many good machine shops in town. and then either learn how to assemble it yourself properly or bring it to me.
since its all beat to ****, all you know is that the valve hit piston and broke. coulda been install error, messed up keepers, retainer, stressed valve on install. or like you said, problem on the rod big end, rod bolts, bearings, whatever, try to figure out what let go first, and why. just so you can make sure it doesnt happen again.
some of these guys theories are great, one guy argues the wrong point harder and now people are believing it.
see if the shop will sell you new **** at cost and then find yourself a new builder.
msg me the name of the shops involved so i can be sure to steer people away from there. i bet its the same clowns again.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 hrs, they doggin it on your dime. the whole situation is unfortunate, i feel your pain, it really must be a huge drain on you and your wallet. i am in vancouver as well, you really have find those who are truly capable of working on your car, some shops should just stick to internet sales and not attempt to do work greater than installing lowering springs. you really have to do all the research yourself, have the machine work done by one of many good machine shops in town. and then either learn how to assemble it yourself properly or bring it to me.
since its all beat to ****, all you know is that the valve hit piston and broke. coulda been install error, messed up keepers, retainer, stressed valve on install. or like you said, problem on the rod big end, rod bolts, bearings, whatever, try to figure out what let go first, and why. just so you can make sure it doesnt happen again.
some of these guys theories are great, one guy argues the wrong point harder and now people are believing it.
see if the shop will sell you new **** at cost and then find yourself a new builder.
msg me the name of the shops involved so i can be sure to steer people away from there. i bet its the same clowns again.
#39
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nah man hes doing it by himself thats y it took him 3 hours
its all good im taking care of alex with some new stuff and what are the good machine shops in vancouver? my friend took his motor to some domestic shop in north van..they're horrible
its all good im taking care of alex with some new stuff and what are the good machine shops in vancouver? my friend took his motor to some domestic shop in north van..they're horrible
#40
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I hate the internet because people get all full of themselves, and get off track and say hey i type the best words. But anyways. Have you contacted those guys and let them know what happened yet? Keep us updated.
#41
Re: (DouLik Industries)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DouLik Industries »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah man hes doing it by himself thats y it took him 3 hours
its all good im taking care of alex with some new stuff and what are the good machine shops in vancouver? my friend took his motor to some domestic shop in north van..they're horrible</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool, get it back on the road.
i really like high performance in bby behind the lougheed save on. at work we send all our stuff to alecs on fraser, they are quick, and we have never had a problem. i had my head done way out in the valley, closer is lance hayward of course.
its all good im taking care of alex with some new stuff and what are the good machine shops in vancouver? my friend took his motor to some domestic shop in north van..they're horrible</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool, get it back on the road.
i really like high performance in bby behind the lougheed save on. at work we send all our stuff to alecs on fraser, they are quick, and we have never had a problem. i had my head done way out in the valley, closer is lance hayward of course.
#42
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Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (HypeR1004)
Isn't a valve a "valve". Do you have to use toda valves/retainers/springs/guides with toda cams. I dont get this as some of you are saying. Its just metal, right. Now if we are talking about wear on different metals then thats different. ie cams to rockers. I could see useing toda cam gears with toda cams but not the whole head assembly.
We know what happened, the valve hit the top of the piston. So how did this happen? Has to be the timing or the slipping of the belt or cam gear slipage/ or the valve dropped because the springs(Hopefully you had good aftermarket ones and not stock) floated.
Some say the valve stayed open to long. That has nothing to do with the product he used, thats TIMING, right?
I feel vey bad for you, get that engine back
When this happen did you check to see if the belt was loose or had skipped. As someone else mentioned the teeth on the belt are kinda frizzed. Did it skip of slip on the gears?
Hope it gets fixed.
That spark plug is not melted, the broken stem f it up.
We know what happened, the valve hit the top of the piston. So how did this happen? Has to be the timing or the slipping of the belt or cam gear slipage/ or the valve dropped because the springs(Hopefully you had good aftermarket ones and not stock) floated.
Some say the valve stayed open to long. That has nothing to do with the product he used, thats TIMING, right?
I feel vey bad for you, get that engine back
When this happen did you check to see if the belt was loose or had skipped. As someone else mentioned the teeth on the belt are kinda frizzed. Did it skip of slip on the gears?
Hope it gets fixed.
That spark plug is not melted, the broken stem f it up.
#43
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Re: (EXV)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EXV »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3 hrs, they doggin it on your dime. the whole situation is unfortunate, i feel your pain, it really must be a huge drain on you and your wallet. i am in vancouver as well, you really have find those who are truly capable of working on your car, some shops should just stick to internet sales and not attempt to do work greater than installing lowering springs. you really have to do all the research yourself, have the machine work done by one of many good machine shops in town. and then either learn how to assemble it yourself properly or bring it to me.
since its all beat to ****, all you know is that the valve hit piston and broke. coulda been install error, messed up keepers, retainer, stressed valve on install. or like you said, problem on the rod big end, rod bolts, bearings, whatever, try to figure out what let go first, and why. just so you can make sure it doesnt happen again.
some of these guys theories are great, one guy argues the wrong point harder and now people are believing it.
see if the shop will sell you new **** at cost and then find yourself a new builder.
msg me the name of the shops involved so i can be sure to steer people away from there. i bet its the same clowns again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey, GIZZ on RS?
we're not gonna reuse the head anymore, it's gonna be chucked or sold
picking up a used portflow head off of moo man to build on that with the current valve train that i have right now.
If the block is salvageable, me and Doulik industries are gonna try and piece together a great 1.8L bottom end
most likely i won't be building myself cause of inexperience and lack or proper tools and time
3 hrs, they doggin it on your dime. the whole situation is unfortunate, i feel your pain, it really must be a huge drain on you and your wallet. i am in vancouver as well, you really have find those who are truly capable of working on your car, some shops should just stick to internet sales and not attempt to do work greater than installing lowering springs. you really have to do all the research yourself, have the machine work done by one of many good machine shops in town. and then either learn how to assemble it yourself properly or bring it to me.
since its all beat to ****, all you know is that the valve hit piston and broke. coulda been install error, messed up keepers, retainer, stressed valve on install. or like you said, problem on the rod big end, rod bolts, bearings, whatever, try to figure out what let go first, and why. just so you can make sure it doesnt happen again.
some of these guys theories are great, one guy argues the wrong point harder and now people are believing it.
see if the shop will sell you new **** at cost and then find yourself a new builder.
msg me the name of the shops involved so i can be sure to steer people away from there. i bet its the same clowns again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey, GIZZ on RS?
we're not gonna reuse the head anymore, it's gonna be chucked or sold
picking up a used portflow head off of moo man to build on that with the current valve train that i have right now.
If the block is salvageable, me and Doulik industries are gonna try and piece together a great 1.8L bottom end
most likely i won't be building myself cause of inexperience and lack or proper tools and time
#47
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Re: (Mr. S)
thanks for all the replys
to the local guys......can u guys reccomend good shops around to do machine work and assembling?......i can't get much as of now..working OT everyday to pay for this
to the local guys......can u guys reccomend good shops around to do machine work and assembling?......i can't get much as of now..working OT everyday to pay for this
#49
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Re: What caused my motor to do this to my spark plug (HypeR1004)
ouch man that sucks big time
i totally a agree with the Gizzer
jsut because these local shops work on alot of imports dosnt mean they know what the hell they are doing
high perf engines in burnaby has been around for over 25 years, and i have seen what they can do
i feel your pain, i just rebuilt my motor by myself, and it was way over my head
i totally a agree with the Gizzer
jsut because these local shops work on alot of imports dosnt mean they know what the hell they are doing
high perf engines in burnaby has been around for over 25 years, and i have seen what they can do
i feel your pain, i just rebuilt my motor by myself, and it was way over my head
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