Project B20-R is coming together
#1
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Project B20-R is coming together
Rocket M22x exhaust cam broke destorying motor. RIP
Motor put down 196whp and 140lbs on a Dynojet with the Mugen B16 header (2" piping)
New updates
Specs on motor below pics
Old motor comes out
Old B20 with CTR head
Spare B20V anyone??
Rear mount bracket somehow broke....good thing we had a few extras
New Motor
Old vs New
Here are the specs on the motor:
Bottom end built by Frank Lion of Lion Machinsts
JDM B20B block 84.5mm
JDM Integra Type R P73 Crank(micropolished)
ITR Rods
JE 84.5mm 12.5:1-13:1 Pistons
OEM P72 bearings(clearances set to ITR spec)
Custom lightened factory crank pulley
Head:
JG Engine Dynamics B16A head
Full port and polish
JG valves,valve springs,aluminum retainers
Square combustion cambers
Rocket M22x cams
JG cam gears
JG 65mm TB
ITR intake manifold(port matched)
Hondata IMA gasket
Cosmetic 85mm headgasket
Golden Eagle headstuds
New OEM:
P72 oil pump
P72 water pump
P30 main seal
P72 bearings
P72 timing belt
P72 upper timing covers
All gaskets, seals and even bolts
All new OEM water hoses
Transmission Hybrid:
92-93 YS1 XSi LSD
GSR 1-4th gears
LS 5th gear
Came with aftermarket LSD (either Quafe or Kaaz)
GearSpeed Carbon coated synchro kit 1-5th
New bearing and seal kit
Competion clutch and flywheel kit
Engine Management:
OBD1 conversion
New OBD1 Distributor
RC 320 injecctors
PLX Wideband
Hondata S300
Soon to be transplatee
UPDATE
Rocket M22X Cams
http://i141.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg
JDM ITR Intake Manifold
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...8.jpg
I'm also debating on one of these
http://i14.tinypic.com/52d7sd5.jpg
I'm too lazy to try and figure out how to post the pics on here so someone else can if they want
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 1:33 PM 7/28/2007
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 5:30 PM 10/26/2007
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 4:13 PM 1/31/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 4:18 PM 1/31/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 10:20 AM 3/13/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 12:02 AM 3/15/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 2:49 PM 4/22/2008
Motor put down 196whp and 140lbs on a Dynojet with the Mugen B16 header (2" piping)
New updates
Specs on motor below pics
Old motor comes out
Old B20 with CTR head
Spare B20V anyone??
Rear mount bracket somehow broke....good thing we had a few extras
New Motor
Old vs New
Here are the specs on the motor:
Bottom end built by Frank Lion of Lion Machinsts
JDM B20B block 84.5mm
JDM Integra Type R P73 Crank(micropolished)
ITR Rods
JE 84.5mm 12.5:1-13:1 Pistons
OEM P72 bearings(clearances set to ITR spec)
Custom lightened factory crank pulley
Head:
JG Engine Dynamics B16A head
Full port and polish
JG valves,valve springs,aluminum retainers
Square combustion cambers
Rocket M22x cams
JG cam gears
JG 65mm TB
ITR intake manifold(port matched)
Hondata IMA gasket
Cosmetic 85mm headgasket
Golden Eagle headstuds
New OEM:
P72 oil pump
P72 water pump
P30 main seal
P72 bearings
P72 timing belt
P72 upper timing covers
All gaskets, seals and even bolts
All new OEM water hoses
Transmission Hybrid:
92-93 YS1 XSi LSD
GSR 1-4th gears
LS 5th gear
Came with aftermarket LSD (either Quafe or Kaaz)
GearSpeed Carbon coated synchro kit 1-5th
New bearing and seal kit
Competion clutch and flywheel kit
Engine Management:
OBD1 conversion
New OBD1 Distributor
RC 320 injecctors
PLX Wideband
Hondata S300
Soon to be transplatee
UPDATE
Rocket M22X Cams
http://i141.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg
JDM ITR Intake Manifold
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...8.jpg
I'm also debating on one of these
http://i14.tinypic.com/52d7sd5.jpg
I'm too lazy to try and figure out how to post the pics on here so someone else can if they want
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 1:33 PM 7/28/2007
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 5:30 PM 10/26/2007
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 4:13 PM 1/31/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 4:18 PM 1/31/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 10:20 AM 3/13/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 12:02 AM 3/15/2008
Modified by jdmboyef9 at 2:49 PM 4/22/2008
Last edited by jdmboyef9; 07-29-2009 at 11:11 AM.
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Re: (JDM JEFFREY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM JEFFREY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice build..
why stock rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I chose the stock rods because 1 they were balanced and 2 they are light. Most rod failures accure with high horsepower or high rpm's. The stock B20/Ls rod bolts tend to stretch causing the rod to fail. However, stock GSR/Type R rod bolts or arp are strong enough for the task. I could likely get away with stock rods if I was running arp bolts and a B20 crank.
P.S. Even with this motor destroked and built for high rpm, it will likely not see 9k+ rpm's
why stock rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I chose the stock rods because 1 they were balanced and 2 they are light. Most rod failures accure with high horsepower or high rpm's. The stock B20/Ls rod bolts tend to stretch causing the rod to fail. However, stock GSR/Type R rod bolts or arp are strong enough for the task. I could likely get away with stock rods if I was running arp bolts and a B20 crank.
P.S. Even with this motor destroked and built for high rpm, it will likely not see 9k+ rpm's
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Re: (jdmboyef9)
lol i take my stock itr rods / rod bolts to 9k everytime i drive it, i semi daily drive the car.. i'd add some extra arp rod bolts for insurence, i ended up doing that..gives a peace of mind, aside from that it looks good, watch the pro2's thats asking for trouble i suggestion regular s2s2's or the pro1's.
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Re: (IntegraType-R)
Thanks for the advice. When it comes to cam selection everywhere I read is kinda fuzzy. I would go with some Endyne bumpsticks if I had the money (just to keep it one the safe mild side). I know that some make more power than others but they can eat up your rocker arms or the cam lobs themself without the right setup. This is going to be a street machine so I'm shooting for reliablity over max power
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#12
Re: (b19coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1955cc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I should have used a compression calc .
Thanks though
I should have used a compression calc .
Thanks though
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Re: (jdmboyef9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboyef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hopefully with Hondata and some luck 92 octaine. I'm still looking around local to see how much race gas is...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Great build I miss my old B20. With a good tune you should be good on 92 octane. Did you already buy the hondata? If not look into Crome. Its much cheaper and does exactly the samething. Its usually easier to find people to tune it also.
Great build I miss my old B20. With a good tune you should be good on 92 octane. Did you already buy the hondata? If not look into Crome. Its much cheaper and does exactly the samething. Its usually easier to find people to tune it also.
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Re: (smileycvc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Great build I miss my old B20. With a good tune you should be good on 92 octane. Did you already buy the hondata? If not look into Crome. Its much cheaper and does exactly the samething. Its usually easier to find people to tune it also. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm accually planning on running an OBD0 Spoon Sports ECU for the break in. I'm not decided on what managerment yet or if I even want to convert to OBD1
Great build I miss my old B20. With a good tune you should be good on 92 octane. Did you already buy the hondata? If not look into Crome. Its much cheaper and does exactly the samething. Its usually easier to find people to tune it also. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm accually planning on running an OBD0 Spoon Sports ECU for the break in. I'm not decided on what managerment yet or if I even want to convert to OBD1
#18
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Re: (jdmboyef9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboyef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm accually planning on running an OBD0 Spoon Sports ECU for the break in. I'm not decided on what managerment yet or if I even want to convert to OBD1</TD></TR></TABLE>
convert to obd1 and break it in on the dyno..especially with that compression
convert to obd1 and break it in on the dyno..especially with that compression
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Re: (junkyard racer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junkyard racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JG didnt clean the head up, or was that head from a previous build?
looks like it will be a fun motor though! </TD></TR></TABLE>
The motor is from a previous build. I took it to another head shop to get it cleaned up but they said they had to fully dismantal the head to prevent damage to the valve seals and I didn't feel like spending a few hundred dollars for the same performance. The head is very clean overall with only some carbon in the exhaust ports(nothing bad...just black)
looks like it will be a fun motor though! </TD></TR></TABLE>
The motor is from a previous build. I took it to another head shop to get it cleaned up but they said they had to fully dismantal the head to prevent damage to the valve seals and I didn't feel like spending a few hundred dollars for the same performance. The head is very clean overall with only some carbon in the exhaust ports(nothing bad...just black)
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Re: Project B20-R is coming together (jdmboyef9)
so how much was it for all the bottom end work? i have a b20vtech too but i need to get the bottom end beefed up? u get a hell of alot more power after? what are u at? hp?
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Re: Project B20-R is coming together (da9eekee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by da9eekee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so how much was it for all the bottom end work? i have a b20vtech too but i need to get the bottom end beefed up? u get a hell of alot more power after? what are u at? hp? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Motor is still being built. The machine work and assembly (not including the cost of the pistons, rods, or crank) cost me around $650. Depending on the cams and the tune I'm shotting for somewhere around 190-200whp....maybe more but I like to shoot low so that I don't feel disappointed if it's less. Should run very strong if everything works out right.
Motor is still being built. The machine work and assembly (not including the cost of the pistons, rods, or crank) cost me around $650. Depending on the cams and the tune I'm shotting for somewhere around 190-200whp....maybe more but I like to shoot low so that I don't feel disappointed if it's less. Should run very strong if everything works out right.
#22
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Re: Project B20-R is coming together (jdmboyef9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboyef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The time has come to start my own B20 build thread. I have been putting this thing together slowly over the past year and it's almost complete. Here are the specs on the motor:
</TD></TR></TABLE>Whats happening here under the gasket?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Whats happening here under the gasket?
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Re: Project B20-R is coming together (RudeBwaiSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeBwaiSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats happening here under the gasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's Hondabond that is around the oil jackets to help prevent the oh so common leaky headgasket. This is a trick that is used by some of the more knowledged engine builders like Larry Widmer from Endyn or Thomas Strom.
It's Hondabond that is around the oil jackets to help prevent the oh so common leaky headgasket. This is a trick that is used by some of the more knowledged engine builders like Larry Widmer from Endyn or Thomas Strom.