fkncivic

ok so i was running a b20b vtec setup for the last five years, head is milled .030 and running ctr cams.. well that block finally gave way after five years of beating the hell out of it. I decided for my rebuild that i was just going to go with the b20z block so i would have alot higher compression.... anyways my question is this, (running the .030 milled head and ctr cams) will i be free of clearance issues just by modding the valve reliefs on the pistons? if so how much should i widen them? Just trying to make sure that the cams and milling arent too much for this setup.

Acurazor

You can get it clayed.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php

fkncivic

ok well im tryin to get an idea before i actually buy the block.

fkncivic

???

fkncivic

last attempt bump.

Andrew-L

Stroke Length
B20b/z 89.0 mm

rod length

B20b/z 137.00 mm

i think the b20a is the only one thats different

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

if you're considering modding stock pistons, the easiest solution is to go with RS machine pistons. They will up your compression and already have valve reliefs. They are much better that a modded stock piston.

k20coupe

x2

JakeSpec

what i used to do before RS pistons is bring 2 slugs up at a time and use duck tape to completly seal off the block and just leave the 4 reliefs showing on 2 slugs. i used a dremel with a pointed grinding stone and flare the ends of the valve reliefs a bit. I know some guys that notch the holycrap outta them to run stag 2 cams lol i wouldnt suggest that. and i seen some guy no name dislosed notch a hole right thru a fresh jdm b20 LMOA but yeah make sure you seal off the block really good and only notch 2 pistons at a time. or you can call cometic and order a hybrid lsv b20 cometic HD 30thou headgasket. or do both.

good luck

make sure you use good sticky duck tape, or even the black duct tape, also you can use a 3m burgandy scotch bright pad with wd40 to remove the sticky adhesive on the deck after the jobs complete

fkncivic

thanks man