ef92b

Hello and good day everyone.

I'm a no seasoned tuner and so I'm posting this dyno tune I did in order to collect comments and suggestions so as to improve the power/torque curve and hopefully extract more power out of this stock engine.

It's a completely stock H22 motor from top to bottom(Type-S cams? not really sure) except for it's ACT stage 4 clutch and the basic IHE bolt-ons. This includes a 70mm TB, a Skunk2 IM, 2.5" full exhaust, 4-2-1 header (unknown brand/label) and a set of humongous spark plug wires

The owner who approached me the first time more than a week ago bought this car in which it's been sitting for quite a long time(God knows since when). He was after it's mint chassis and careless about it's motor as he mentioned.

The ECU that came with it's motor was a chipped P13 and I'm guessing an e-gay mugen chip as it's what I saw stick'd on top of the chip when I first opened it's ECU. Despite it's motor displacement, the car could hardly run normally when I first drove it and really feels sluggish just like a small D12 carb engine on a sedan. LOL

As the new owner loves speed and crazy about big bikes, with me not touching anything yet with the car, he wanted to see the engine's power as it sits so we then drove by to a nearby dyno shop and made two test runs.

Now on with some pics! LOL



That much with ignition break-up and lots'a fuel is what you get for free from e-gay!

Right there after, we then installed the following and fixed some few fueling glitches:

- replaced the fuel pump as it drops pressure below 38 psi once the motor is running a used walbro unit was then in place.
- new spark plugs NGK ZFR6F-11; motor came with NGK BKR6E-11
- oem but used spark plug wires I borrowed from a friend's car
- replacement/non oem dizzy cap
- replacement/non oem fuel filter
- chipped P28 ECU with my previous street tuned base maps(CR*ME Dealer) on stock motors
- new but old stock AEM wideband installed. Owner has it from a previous car but never installed.
- H22 M2A4 tranny in favor of the previous long geared F-series P2xx accord tranny.

Two nights ago, we then went for few hours street tuning then just last night for a re dyno.

We also got a chance to grab a 3" v-stak, KN&N filter plus a brand new NGK blue wire set. Many thanks to Chris and Jay from Xenocron for shipping the parts on time just before we hit the dyno last night!



Run #3 = initial run(street tuned) vs. the previous test run with IAT @ 48deg. C ~119-120 deg. F



My next graph below is the best power/torque curve(low cam only, Non-VTEC mode) I'm able to do. Run #8 with his old filter and SRI setup vs. my longer intake tube, 3" v-stak plus the knn filter.







Run #16 with VTEC ON at 4800rpms:



Run #20 after messing a bit with the fuel, timing, vtec engagement, etc.



With run #20, I had to check my plugs as to why that up top curve is jagged!

The following pics of the spark plugs are taken today while i was at my office work. From left to right is 1-2-3-4 cylinders respectively.





#3 up close:



#1 spark plug:



There's no audible signs of detonations I can hear plus the dyno shop owner/ tuner himself standing close to the room but a bit further claims the same. However, I didn't feel comfortable by the looks of the plugs. This is merely 2 degrees ignition advance compared to my street tuned ignition maps.

I then installed some fresh plugs but this time with NGK BKR7ES-11. I then added more fuel plus two more degrees of timing.

Result shown below, Run #23:



I lost power and torque. I hear no detonation

I then drop and retard the ignition by 1 degree, cooled down the motor a bit with IAT @ 48 deg. C just like the initial run from start.

Result:



I stopped at this point and call it the night. Fumes, operating the dyno, I was exhausted, LOL

I've checked the plugs as well during this last run and they look clean but with much much lesser black spots as shown with run # 20.

I'm suspecting a weak ignition(curvy, curly curves up top, LOL! ) but I would like to hear more comments and suggestions from the community. And in behalf of the owner, he is willing to spend more dyno time, buy quality replacement parts as needed so I am happy, good to go fixing more stuff.

Thank you for your time reading.

d15Beta

first comment :

dyno tuning on slippers = FTMFW



good job man... bet the owner is stoked.. running from egay chip to an actual tuned chip on the dyno...

btw wats ur total timing at wot?

motoxxxman

everything looks pretty good. only thing I notice is low cam at wot appears a bit lean.

the one suggestion I would make according to those dyno charts is to raise vtec from 4800 to 5000. it'll eliminate the dip in power and make the transition much smoother.

also remember that dynos do not replicate street conditions perfectly, so you'll want to do some WOT datalogging on the street to touch up fuel, and probably pull 1 degree of timing for safety purposes

ef92b

spare my sleepers! LOL! weather's too hot in here in the middle of the deserts

here's my hi cam ignition maps.



car pulls much better after the dyno. spins 2nd and 3rd through out with those heavy 17 in. wheels LOL!

Thank you for your insights Sir. Will consider that.

I did set the VTEC at 5000 at one point and still the dip was present. Let me pull the run file that shows that dip and upload it sometime tomorrow.

The A/F reading is a bit skewed. The AEM WB in the car show 0.3 richer as per my data logs on all those runs. I tried setting the fuel within the happy medium, how the plugs are and what the dyno WB reads as well as what the in-car WB shows.

the171

cool tuning story

Ive had good results with 12.0-12.5 AFR on the H

0xenocron

First was ignition timing SYNC'd properly with a known good timing light? Sometimes it is hard to do on the H-Series because of where they put the timing mark on the stock flywheel.

I normally see 28-31.50 degrees of timing on the high cam in column 10 on pump 93 over here.

The jaggedness, even at a 5 smoothing is either a dyno problem or a car problem? Does the dyno get this jagged on other cars? If you cant feel that ignition break up on the dyno or on the road, I would suspect Dyno issue. Dynojet's are not accurate enough to really pickup that kind of changing power that I have ever seen, ESPECIALLY on a 5 smoothness.

As well, i would try going a little richer and see whats happening.

Make sure oil pressure is good!

Gap the plugs down a little and use some Resistor NGK 7 heat range plugs and change those plug wires to stock or NGK.

Also, pull off the cap and rotor and clean and inspect everything inside there as well!

ef92b

Many thanks for your insights Chris.

Yes, the ignition timing was sync'd prior to the tune. I do have an Actron CP7529 digital timing light with RPM advance function so I'm able to set the timing via the three timing marks on the flywheel then do a second pass using the advance function while re-checking via the TDC mark. Everything's lined up.

As per the dyno, it does not show that jagged curve. There was another car with an H23 in it and the curve was real smooth.

Dizzy cap, NGK plug wires and heat 7 plugs used are brand new stuff. They're from your store except the cap

I'll recheck the engine's compression and verify the valve tappets/gaps when I get a chance this coming weekend.

I tried going richer till 11.5 tops and didn't help. at 12.6AFR, the plugs' shell as shown with my pics above already indicates rich fuel supply.