rjay8604

Well, I have been holding out for a while, saving up money, surfing the net for parts and just plain waiting. When my 87 Civic Si with a b16 using my homemade mounts(underengineered) ripped its self from the frame, i had to pull the motor. Thats when this all started. I got a decent job where i realized i could start saving up money and build something really quick (IMO). I picked up a pretty clean 91 gray hatch and started planning. This was about march. Its about a year later and i have finally accumulated most of my parts. Anyway before i bore you, here is my bored and stroked b16 project. also keep in mind i wanted to make absolutely sure this could be a reliable high-revver, hence my choices.

* b16a 1st gen block and head
* B17a crank
* Eagle h-beam rods, b16 5.290" (arp 2000 3/8 bolts)
* Arias custom pistons, 11:1 comp (excluding milled head), custom compression height, 85mm bore.
* Golden Eagle sleeved, bored, and finish honed to 85mm.
* ARP head studs
* AEBS intake manifold
* portflow (through earl) valve-job, porting and polishing, milled 10 thou.
* supertech valvesprings, retainers.
* BLOX type b/wicked stage 2 cams (essestially Skunk2 Stg 2's)
* Skunk2 cam gears
* maxbore 99 civic si overbored TB
* password jdm CF intake
* Header: RMF
* Exhaust, madrel 2.5" with resonator and magnaflow oval or similar.
* y1 tranny with LS 5th gearset.
* Fidanza flywheel
* Action 1MS clutch. (damn I hope it's daily driveable)
* Suprdave tuned Neptune in near future


Spec's:
~ 1.85 liter
81.4mm stroke
85mm bore
1.65:1 rod stroke ratio
11.2-11.3 compression

projected figures:
215whp (hopefully)
140wtq ft.lbs
9500 fuel cut
13.2-12.6 1/4 mile 4.5 0-60 mph ?

It started as a room full of parts



Modified by rjay8604 at 7:56 PM 5/24/2005


Modified by rjay8604 at 11:25 PM 6/5/2005


Modified by rjay8604 at 12:27 AM 6/23/2005

1993sir05

more please.

rjay8604

Ready to begin working.


Bare block awaiting its guts


Crank set-in to start plasti-gaging

rjay8604

all main and rod journals were dead-on at .0015 using ACL bearings.


The ball point pen worked great for putting the spiro-locks into the pistons.


wrist pins, rods and pistons assembled

rjay8604

keeping tabs on things. utilizing dirty *** notebook


pressing the ring down for gapping. top was set at .015 for all.


bottom end coming together. I learned my lesson on 2nd rings, they break extremely easily and file very quickly. oops, little too much oil on top.

rjay8604

Little issue, gasket kit bought came with no labels on parts, yes, this wasn't the correct o-ring. went to dealer, part no. 15825-PK1-003, OEM reassurance is nice.


windage tray, oil pump, oil pickup, rear main seal holder installed. windage tray and oil pickup are torqued to 8 ft. lbs. oil pump, 8ft lbs, except the 2 big bolts are 17 ft. lbs.

Dan GSR

I hope that isn't motor oil on the tops

5STAR3

looks hot so far

rjay8604

How pretty, too bad that oil pump makes the rest of the block look EH.


I have a lot more to come. Unfortunately, theres about 2 months left of waiting. Building, money saving, deciding, wiring, tuning, hybridizing...etc. This stuff is so much damn work. my money, my time, stress, but i love it.
Anything you think i left out let me know. I still need a header, hondata unit, socketed ECU, axles, etc.

thanks we-todd-did-racing, honda-tech, arias, tuners-choice guy, and tons of other people for the help so far.

rjay8604

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope that isn't motor oil on the tops</TD></TR></TABLE> it is but it has since been removed.

Dan GSR

did u use motor oil to install the pistons?

from my experience, motor oil is bad to use for installing pistons

the rings don't seat properly

johnzm

ur kidding??

what do you use, then to install your pistons???


from my experience, everything in the general vincinity (including the tops of the pistons) gets oil on it until the rings seat

1993sir05

i always used motor oil, what are you supposed to use if not motor oil?

Dan GSR

something light, like WD40, has worked a lot better for me

2k.civic.si

wd40 is not a lubricant..."WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt." the inventor of it was trying to keep things from rusting

most engine build guides go something like this for piston install

"With the crank in place, you can now go ahead and install the pistons and rods. Make sure you lube them up pretty good with engine oil and using a ring compressor and some steady hands, gently hammer the pistons into the cylinder. Be sure that they are all facing the correct direction!"

1993sir05

i used wd-40 to pre lub the piston rings.

2k.civic.si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1993sir05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used wd-40 to pre lub the piston rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how can you "pre lub" with wd40 when its not a lubricant?

1993sir05

well it does its job for me, while i am installing the pistons, and i got the idea from the experts at endyn. from their website.

5STAR3

i say we get the opinions of some of the big dogs.....? cause im interested.

hybrid_vtec

Block lookz good so far, cant wait to see more!


I used oil to put my pistons in my block. As far as I know you are supposed to use motor oil to install the Pistons and assembly lube on the bearings. This is what i have always done and never had a problem. Also when you first start your engine you are going to have oil blow-by until the rings seal.

wolve

srry for hijacking the post with a li'l qeustion,

i'd like some recomandations on engine build guides and where to get em. first time i heard of it. it's (engine building)going pretty slow in the netherlands and there's second to none info on it.

excuse for my bad english, just another eager mind saving up money and knowledge for my project.

civicguy

wd-40 here too, more than 6 build none of them have fail yet,endyn uses wd-40

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

WD40 or the CRC red can stuff works well ... you dont want too much oil on the rings you just need it to NOT be dry, rings need to work against the hone to break in and seat nicely ... I use really crappy oil to drive around low rpms and startup then flush it after ...


greg

rev limiter

I read somewhere that you can use break fluid as wel for the pistons.

hybrid_vtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rev limiter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read somewhere that you can use break fluid as wel for the pistons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Never heard of that, but kinda curious to know.