RyanA

I think I'm having a problem with the oil pump losing prime on an LSVTEC. When the car is first started, it takes a while (5-7 seconds) for the oil light to extinguish. After the first start, everything is just fine. Oil pressure at idle and when driving is fine, too. It is only after the car sits for an extended period (at least 8 hours or so) that the oil pressure takes a while to build up. Here are the specs on the build that are pertinent to this question:

Brand new VTEC oil pump (OEM Honda)
New oil pickup tube gasket and torqued to spec
New oil pump outlet o ring
Golden Eagle LSVTEC conversion kit. Sandwich plate, feed line, AN fitting, etc.
Bearings are OEM Honda and are perfect for clearance.

What should I check and has anyone else had this problem? I'd like to check the things outside the engine before I pull the oil pan. Car is not being driven.

Furyof4

If the pump isn't spinning, there isn't going to be any pressure.

What oil are you running?

RyanA

What????!!!! My engine is a regular LSVTEC. When I start the engine, the oil pump is spinning. I don't have one of the uber-rare stationary crankshaft LSVTEC's (yet).

I guess I should clarify a little more as my post may have sounded confusing.

AFTER the car sits for 8 hours or so, the oiling system loses prime. When I start the car for the first time (and it's running....) it will take a few seconds of idling for the oil pressure to finally come up. No, I'm not being ****. The engine will actually be NOISY while the oil pressure light is on. The oil pump IS turning and the engine IS running.

After the first start of the day, it starts and has oil pressure immediately. Oil pump is brand new. Oil is fresh. Oil is 10w30.

Furyof4

Ugh...What I'm saying is the engine won't hold oil pressure over night. There will only be pressure when the crank is spinning. My b16a is the same way, 1st start in the morning the oil light takes 1 or 2 sec longer to go out. If your engine is noisy during that time then you may have other issues.

When you say you bearing clearances are "perfect" did you use ls specs?

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

Shouldn't a properly working system hold oil in the galleys, filter, and pick up even with the engine off for some time? Isn't that the reason oil filters have anti drain back valves? My pressure gauge reads a very small amount of pressure with the engine off and key still on. I've never sat there and waited to see how long though.

Furyof4

I sure it will hold a few psi for a short time but I wouldn't think for very long.

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

I think that even if it is no longer under pressure it should still hold oil in the system. Otherwise you would be dry starting your engine all the time.

DonF

Some oil filters have poor "drain back" characteristics. Change to a Honda filter and see if it is the same. If the filter is draining back to the pan over-night, it takes time to fill it. If it is not that, your oil pump probably has to much clearance and lets the oil drain back to the pan over-nite.

RyanA

The oil pump better not be the issue since it's a brand new one from Acura. LOL. Yes, I know just because it's new does NOT mean that it's good. I'll be very unhappy if it does have issues though.


I am wondering if it could be one of these things:

1. The LSVTEC kit is allowing the oil to drain back to the pan completely. Kind of like holding a hose in the air and the water drains out the other end. I think this is an older LSVTEC feed kit.

2. For some reason the oil pickup tube or the oil pickup tube gasket have an issue, allowing the oil to drain all the way back to the pan and making it more difficult for the oil pump to pull the oil up the initial startup.

3. Oil filter is a slight possibility but doubtful.

Clearances are set up like a GSR. The bearings are B16 pieces as I have heard too much about LS bearings supposedly flaking. They are OEM bearings as I like clearances what I want them to be, not what a set of ACL's happens to make them... The oil level is spot on and clean. Once the car has started and the oil pressure is up, the engine is VERY strong.

This is not my first B series. My Civic has a fresh ITR internal GSR block and it does not do this ever. Even after sitting for a month or so.

DonF

Well, you are probably correct. Tape the light over. You be fine.

gearhead16

i had the same problem when i built my b16a i found that the pressure relief vlave in the pump had a burn on it from the factory and got stuck open simply take the oil pan off theres an alan bolt you have to take you and its a piston and spring use scotch bright on the piston to take off any burs and make sure it moves freely

gearhead16

oh and yes my pump was band new from honda

RyanA

What the heck does that mean?? LOL.

Yes, I'll be pulling the pan to check the oil pickup tube and gasket and I'll pull the spring in the pump and check the piston.

jrod90dc2

Replace the oil pump. Just went through the same thing on a buddy's car and he spun a bearing. It's worth it to replace it save ur whole build

jimvtec13

I'm truly sorry to respawn this after so many years, but RyanA's inbox is full and i couldn't find an e-mail in his profile. I have the exact same problem since yesterday in my b16a1. Could anyone point me to the right direction? (oil pump, filter, sensor?)

Here's a video of what happens exactly.

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=xcprw1&s=6

I have good pressure otherwise, vtec engages, no oil light in ANY other case except cold startup. Even at 500 rpm warm or cold, no oil light.

Thanks.

rich7777

Pull the oil pump off and inspect it (internally)

nealnanoHX

I know old post but I really did not like reading this part. If the block is a LS block, rods and crank then it needs to be built to LS specs with LS bearings. I do not like the fact that you state to have just put OEM bearings in it. Did you have the crank and rods checked by a machine shop to make sure all the clearances where good for OEM bearings or at least checked and plasti gauged them yourself??

kyden

b16 bearings are fine, they are tri-metal and are the same dimensions as ls ones. i am using b16 rod bearings in my ls/vtec.

nealnanoHX

But the part about a LS motor with B16 bearings built to GSR specs with no mention of sizing the bearing.