porter351

so here is my delema. i have a h22a in a accord. recently i put in s2p1 cams, s2 tuner gears, supertech springs and ti retainers, euro-r manifold, and 68mm tb. i also did a few maintainance things such as new hg, manual tensioner conversion, and all new sealls and gaskets in the top of the motor. i go to the dyno yesterday and get a max hp of 162 and tq of 148. it was on i dyno pack so i knew it would be low. i also go to the track and run the same times as i did before this install. i did a compression check and i get 190 on all cylinders. since i dont have a scanner or camera to post the graph i will give u the tq readings.

rpm tq
3500 143
4000 136
4500 138
5000 144
5500 148
6000 142
6500 135
7000 126
7500 113
max hp was at 7000

i do have an intermittent code 9 cyp sensor. could this be causing it? also what is the proper way of perorming a leak down test. please help i am at a complete loss

98vtec

um...yea. If there is something wrong like that...a sensor vital for the engine to function normally, i'm not surprised.

porter351

even when the check engine light isnt on it still feels like it pulls the same. i changed the sensor with one from the junk yard and it went away for a while and then came back. then sometimes when i drive it wont be on but then i drive it a seperate time and it will come on again. what do u think would cause that. i have checked the resistance and it is within spec. i have also checked for it being grounded out and it is still good. i guess ill just have to try a whole new distributor. btw is 190psi good compression on a jdm h22.

Scott_Tucker

What were your numbers before you did these mods?

porter351

unfurtunatly i dont have a dyno from before but my drag times are the same. im glad my comp test was good but it leaves me more stumped. hopefully its just the distributor

jayWknight

iTrader: (3)

A 68mm throttle body is way too big. Most people who are Na do not use a throttle body bigger then 64 - 66mm. With a 68mm throttle body, you loose too much air speed.

Scott_Tucker

How much more power were you expecting? You got a larger cam which generally means it has more duration and more lift. You didn't raise your compression ratio so any increase in the intake duration is just going to decrease your effective compression ratio because the intake valves close later. I'm assuming the intake has larger runners than stock? That and a larger throttle body general will raise the RPM at which peak torque occurs. The ports in the head are still stock which means any increase in valve lift isn't going to make much difference. I would think that your mods would make your engine make less peak torque, but it would make peak torque at a higher RPM which would make your peak power about the same, although at a higher RPM. This engine is going to want to rev higher but your ports and your compression ratio are your limiting factors right now. A mild port and polish will allow you to take advantage of that extra lift. Higher compression will take advantage of the increased duration. It will of course, need to be retuned to match fuel and spark to these mods.

Chris Tune

o..... m..... g.....

porter351

i was expecting more like 200 since i have seen numerous graphs of stock bottom end h22 make around that with similar mods. and the problem is peak touque doesnt carry out past 6000. it falls off almost 30tq from 6000 to 7500.

Scott_Tucker

What does 'similar mods' mean?

porter351

ill just list my mods
3 inch short ram intake
68mm pro products tb
euror manifold
pro1 cams
supertech spring/retainers
dc header with 2.5 inch collector ( i know i could have better)
2.5 test pipe and cat back.

ive looked in the faqs of this section and say the graphs i was speaking about. maybe not the exact same products but similar ones. i know not all dynos read the same and all that, what worries me is how the power doesnt carry out further.

DonF

I would probably move the Pro1 centerlines around a bit. Maybe 100 IN and 105 EX. See if that helps.

porter351

first im gonna get a distributer, hopefully tomorrow. if that doesnt do it then im gonna have it professionally degreed and tuned. i like doin stuff myself for personall satisfaction, but sometimes its better to have someone who does it for a living take control. i think 98vtec was right though the ecu might be cutting back timing because of the cel. ive been noticing the a/f is different when the cel is on.

98vtec

on the same dyno you were on?

98vtec

those sensors work together to let the ecu know what and where in the cycle the engine is at. like i said. Vital to function.

porter351

no not the same dyno, and i understand that there are alot of variables that go into what dynos show and how others can be different. thats why i also when to the track that night to see if my 1/4 mile picked up any, and it didnt. thats when i knew something wasnt right.

Scott_Tucker

Yes, I think you should take care of that code before you proceed to eliminate it from being an issue. However, I do not think it is going to improve the performance of the engine. Did you happen to get air fuel readings when you had the car dyno'd? I thought you had the car tuned. It may be that the mods you did threw off the air fuel mixture and required ignition timing enough to decrease performance and by having it tuned you will be able to free up some of that power. DonF is right that playing with the cam timing might help you get some of that power back. Since you haven't increased compression or increased air flow through the heads you may find that your required cam settings are not what you would expect.

There really isn't such thing as 'similar mods'. Header 'A' is not the same as header 'B' and they aren't directly comparable. They each require their own unique calibration.

porter351

a/f was between 13.3 and 13.6 wot. i tunned it. i also played with ignition timing, i didnt mess with cam timing though. i ordered the distributor today. the thing that pisses me off is before i went to tune it i got a cyp sensor from the junk yard and put it on the car and everything was fine. as soon as i did my first pull on the dyno it came back on. btw im tunning with crome since i dont think i said that yet.

98vtec

shoot closer to 13.0. What is your peak map timing in crome?

DSRxCandyh2bEG

iTrader: (4)

Did you degree the cams?

is the intake manifold port matched for the 68mm TB?

malink

me and my friend builded is h22 and its bone stock base. Homemade P/P, s2p2, skunk2 valvetrain.

210 whp on a mustang

98vtec

and this helps what?

*built*

porter351

i didnt degree the cams but the head and block havnt been decked or milled. i called skunk2 and used their quick settings, so the cams r sitting at +3 in, -1 ex. yes the manifold was port matched, its a rosko racing euro-r which by the way is a great product and shawn was a great person to deal with.