Trppen37

Ok before anyone gets their panties in a bunch, I am located in Japan and we have inspections every two years so keeping the B16A and not dropping in a B20 or B18 makes me compliant and I do not have to change anything in my title costing me $$$ and headaches... with that said,

I have a B16A OBD-1 I use this car for time attack/grip racing/ togue while also being a grocery getter because owning a car in japan is really expensive as well having an older car adds to the cost. Luckily I am stationed in Japan and sooner or later will settle here, in the mean time I am taking advantage of buying parts in the states; stuff from the states costs significantly lower than the JDM counterparts. IE : Toda stroker kit vs. Brian Crower Stroker kit..$$$

Currently I have the following parts:

P30 Port and Polished Head and 3 Angle Valve Job
Skunk2 (Stage II) Tuner Cams
Skunk2 Titanium Retainers – Pro Series
Skunk2 Valve Springs - Tuner Series
Skunk2 Adjustable Cam Gears - Pro Series
SARD FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator
255lph Walbro Fuel Pump
Ferrea 5000 Valves STD Size (F5502 & F5500)
Ferrera Bronze Valve Guides
Supertech Valve Stems
ARP Headstuds
Brian Crower BC0019 Lightweight Stroker kit
B16A 84.5mm 4340 forged crank, H-beam Sportsman rods (5.290"),
JE Pistons (11.1:1 comp .020 overbore) and ACL Race bearings.
DC2 B18C Integra Type R Intake Manifold and Throttle Body
550cc Injectors, Low Impedance
Fluidamper Street Series Harmonic Balancer
Apexi Power FC
MSD External Coil
Power Enterprise Timing Belt

and of course your regular CAI/4-1 header/Feels Exhaust etc...

Since my tuner here is charging me about $400 per hole to bore to fit the ordered pistons, I am thinking of buying a new set of JE Pistons @ 84mm as well as Darton Sleeves and having them do the work. $400 does sound alot but remember I am in Japan and my bottom would have to be sent to Tokyo and I don't even wanna go tell you how much **** cost there...

I understand this is alot of money but I want to stay compliant while not going forced induction because that is another story in itself. I want to know if there would be any problems with the Stroker Kit and Bored/Sleeved to 84MM? I am sure I have plenty of fuel and the head would well be sufficient for what I do. I would like to hear your opinions please... keep in mind... Not going b18 bottom end or b20 etc due to compliancy...

Elevenseries11

I don't see anything wrong with your setup, its a lot like my JDM B18c. The only thing is your comp ration... why not at least 12. Your cam doesn't seem very agressive to worry about valve slap. Unless your head or block is milled down. If it where me i would get an extrude hone on the intake manifold to help maybe just a little with the lower compression and slightly bigger than stock cam.

Elevenseries11

Just make sure when you get the stroker.... that the machinest doesn't just put it in, he makes sure there is clearence for the crank and rods to spin... if not he should notice this and mil it down.

Which stroker are you getting? the 1.8, 2.0, 2.1?

jazzRS

kinda pointless imo considering you can just throw a b20 block in there for a fraction of the cost

1siceg92

as for the last commen t , he did not read at all . but he has a point . why not change the code stamping and vin plate on the block to the b16a , then you have your 2.0 b16 wink wink . I don't think that they are going to pull your head and check **** . build that with just rods and what not . O get a good tune please imo.

HiProfile

Can't you read? He said he's in Japan. You can't just get a block swap BAR'd over there.


If it was me I'd go rear-mount turbo kit, since you can "hide" it and make the engine bay look like a stockish N/A setup. Or have the block stamp shaved off and epoxy the original b16a stamp in it's place, along with the VIN plate. But neither are very realistic...

The BC Stroker kit keeps the RS ratio a hair above a B18B, but is a smaller stroke. That means less stress and no big difference over what a normal B20 would experience. The rods and pistons will probably be lighter than stock, so I wouldn't worry about anything.


The only things I don't like on that list are all fuel related.

1) The 255 is much more than you'll ever need, and can actually heat the fuel up and puts a bit more load on the alternator. I'd go 190lph max if you're going for every last drop of power. Realistically the stock DOHC VTEC pump is enough at 139lph and can do 300whp+.

2) The injectors are another thing I wouldn't skimp on. If you get RDX (420cc) or R35 (560cc) injectors you'll make a few more ponies, and won't require a resistor box. The RDX and R35's would require an 11mm to 14mm inlet adpater (xenocron.com) and different clips, and the R35's would need to be installed clocked sideways. Both sets have an atomizer plate with 12 holes with a split spray pattern to spray right at the valves.

3) Power FC. Obviously you're limited since you're in Japan.

Trppen37

Hi guys..thanks for the comments...yea there are ways of going around this "inspection" but since my Japanese is not that worthy of listening to and my wife has absolutely no clue, they will just take advantage of her. Here in Japan they look at the B16A Code and match the serial that is below it to your papers.

I can get b20 blocks all day for about $300 but that raelly wasn't the point... The problem was this kit was a little misleading. On their website it lists 1.92ltr for the B16A, that is if you do bore AND resleeve. I am really thinking of doing 85MM and redoing my pistons to bump up the compression to 12:1 @ 85MM. Would this be ok?

I did not realize the R35 had 560cc injectors.. but I already picked up some 550cc injectors granted not brand named but they have been cleaned and flowtested.

I see what you mean on the 255lph but how does it exactly heat up the fuel?

If I was in the states I would do the hondata but my tuner here can only mess with Power FC, Haltec, Motec, and HKS V-Pro. Currently in the car is a Greddy E-manage Blue and that piggyback is not recommended for this he said...


I will note to self "Tell tuner to make sure there is clearance for the crank and rods to spin."

Trppen37

also is there a way to calculate what thickness headgasket I would need... if I did bore it to 85mm?

EG6 Master

I just left Tokyo. I know about all the obstacles that you are referring to. I LOVE the B16s.
Here is what I would do if I were you:

Buy a B16B block/swap (still a 1.6L for the Shaken) to stay within the 500 class~
B17A1 81.4mm crank for stroking purposes or use the stock crank for high RPM power~
Bore to 85mm with 25-27 CH on the pistons and 18mm piston pins ~
Use no higher than 12:1 CR pistons (due to the dome height)~
Longer custom length I-Beam rods~
RDX injectors~
Ported AEBS or Victor X manifold~
Professional Products 68mm TB~
Head gasket thickness is the same as stock~

I like higher rod ratios because my tuning preference is for high RPM power, which is of course where the B16A shines above the B18s. If you get a B17A1 crank you will have a 1847cc (LARGER than an LS VTEC!) engine with 85mm pistons. This combo will provide you with LS VTEC torque, B16A reliability and the AMAZING B16A high RPM VTEC surge!!

accorse07

Interesting...I would very much like to see a set-up like this with its progression.

Trppen37

actually that does sound like a interesting combo! but I already have the stoker kit in my room waiting to be installed .. =( I will post up the progress as soon as she goes o the tuner With all the extra parts I might do a B20 VTEC to swap in my friends "missile"

rich7777

Do you mind sharing some pictures of it ?