lingerbw

I turned the key last night on my first engine project. The results were pretty much what I expected. It started, but ran pretty rough. Here's the rundown:

F22B1 rebuild
Bottom:
Wiseco 11:1 pistons
Stock rods
Stock (replaced) rod bearings
Stock (replaced) rod bolts
Home hone job (green scratch pad)

Top:
Mild head mill (just to flatten after blown head gasket)
Intake ported
Intake manifold port matched
3-angle valve job
All head items are stock

Miscellaneous:
AEM CAI
DC 4-2-1 Header
AEM True Power pullies
Replaced timing belt, balancer belt, and water pump
Added the balance shaft seal retainer

Here's my question: Is it difficult to time this motor? I'm thinking that's why it's running so rough. (I tried just messing with the distributor, but gave up quickly because I didn't want to advance or retard the timing to the point where I caused problems. I'm buying a timing light tonight.) Any other comments or suggestions on what to do next would be extremely helpful.

Thanks,
Brent

lingerbw

I guess no one cares about us "f" guys.

ExospeedAMcrx

I assume you just put everything in. As with any job like this, you will have to do your basic valve adjustments and timing adjustments to get it running smoothly.
You cant do it by ear or by sight. make sure you get the timing gun to make sure its all ok.

lingerbw

I have now set the valve clearances to Honda spec and timed it (with a light). It's running much smoother now, but there is a distinct ticking coming from the valve train. Should I have adjusted the valves to a larger or smaller clearance to accomodate the higher compression pistons? I really don't know the do's and don'ts of tuning with custom parts on. Any help or advice you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

3rdGteg

Well if your valves are still ticking, it is loose. Make sure though, you're not mistaking the injectors opening and closing with valve noise before attempting to go tighter on the valve clearance. Also, get a timing light like Wil said before advancing your timing.

lingerbw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well if your valves are still ticking, it is loose. Make sure though, you're not mistaking the injectors opening and closing with valve noise before attempting to go tighter on the valve clearance. Also, get a timing light like Wil said before advancing your timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did use a timing light and timed it directly onto the red mark on the crank pulley. Would tighter valve clearances reduce the valve noise? It is definitely valve noise. It's coming from directly under the valve cover. Honda spec it .010" on the intake and .012" on the exhaust. Any suggestions on what I should adjust the valves to in order to reduce the noise?

OTT

Adjust them to specification!

You will find that after you've adjusted them & tightened the locknut that they somtimes move slightly out of spec so its a good idea to re-check the clearences with the feelers after tightening the locknut and repeat the process adjusting if necesary.

What make valve adjustment tool are you using?

lingerbw

What make? I'm using a set of feeler guages, an open end wrench, and a flat head screwdriver. (and a torque wrench to finish things up). That's how the Helms says to do this. I did re-check all the clearances after all the nuts were torqued down. All was well.

A couple of people have told me to run the car briefly with the valve cover off, so I can accurately locate exactly where the noise is coming from. Sounds like a messy ordeal....

OTT

Run the car without a cam cover!! hmm either these 2 people are either winding you up or theyre stupid.

lingerbw

Not for any amount of time, just for a few seconds. So I can say, "oh, yeah, it's coming from the intake valves of piston 2." (or wherever)

OTT

you won't be able to identify the noise like that, because youd have to get close to the top of the engine while its running, I expect on an F series engine; oil will be pumped to the head while the engine is turning in order to lubricate all the head components


Modified by OTT at 2:21 PM 6/1/2004

lingerbw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I expect on an F series engine; oil will be pumped to the head while the engine is turning in order to lubricate all the head components</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are correct sir. Beside rechecking the valve clearances, what else could be causing this tapping? Are there any other "adjustments" that you make in the valve train?

OTT

I would suggest checking torque of the cam caps first but are you running it in on a mineral oil?
I ask this because you cannot break-in an engine on synthetic oil

lingerbw

Oops, forgot to add that. When I had the valve cover off, I retorqued all the cam caps. I currently have Non Detergent 30 oil in it. I did a lot of reading on this, and it seemed that the concensus was to break in with ND oil.

edit: also, there is no binding or anything when I turn the motor manually (by the crank)


Modified by lingerbw at 9:44 AM 6/1/2004

OTT

in that case I'm not sure what it could be, have you re-cecked the oil level recently?

lingerbw

No. I have had no visible leaks since I started it last week, but I will check the level today. I do appreciate your replies. I'll let you know what it was when I get it all worked out.

BryanPendleton

Make sure valve lash is adjusted on a cold motor.

While I am not familar with Hondas, most motors' valvetrains will tick for a bit until they reach operating temp

lingerbw

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BryanPendleton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure valve lash is adjusted on a cold motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Twas cold when I adjusted.

Thanks.