BC_Garage

Here's the story. Had a 97 B18c1 with 155k on it to swap into my 6th generation coupe. Deciding to rebuild I got a 98 block which is the same year as my car so I could BAR it. I swapped the crank and rods into the 98 block. I had the 98' block bored .25 over and I'm using OS P73 pistons. I identified the bearings I needed by the stamps on the block, crank and rods and used all the correct bearings. When I finished assembling the motor it became difficult to crank by hand. After sitting for a few hours I have to use a breaker bar on the initial turn and then it frees up and Im able to use a regular 1/2' socket wrench to turn it over.

I decided to remove the oil pan and pickup to check the clearances on the rods. The were as follows- .0012, .0012, .0018, .0012 So I know that it is not being caused by this.

Is it possible that main bearings are wrong even though I got them from the block. When plastigauging them over the summer they were all coming out at like .0008 but I thought that was because i was smashing the plastigauge when removing the main caps.

Is the difficult initial crank turn common or is that a big problem that I am having?

BC_Garage

I talked to another guy I know and he mentioned that I never got the mains align honed and that is required when using main caps from a different block. Wish I would have done that to begin with. If I have it align honed will I still use the same bearings from the markings on the block and crank or will I need to have the crank and mains measured?

Str8EJ

you can't mix/match main caps from different blocks w/o align boring.
even then, the bearing codes on the block/crank become irrelevant. you'll need to gauge them for the specifics of your cap, block & crank combo.

BC_Garage

yeah I didnt realize I had to have it align honed or bored. Once that is done and I have it measured I should still be able to use Honda OEM bearings right? or will I need aftermarket ones?

cibao2ner

get it aligh hone...buy acl std bearings or king which are cheaper...and then if any are out of spec buy them oem... i got .0015 across using king bearings...so i didnt bother going with oem after that....

BC_Garage

Personally I would rather have it measured then use the correct OE bearings then buying aftermarket and checking it then having to buy more. I'm asking if I get it measured I should be able use the OE bearings or will I need oversized bearings because the mains will be larger because of the bore/hone?

cibao2ner

http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/bearingthickness.htm

thats what u need to help u achieve ur clearances

BC_Garage

Perfect I'll use that then. Should have had it align honed/bored to begin with.

You guys think that the .0018 clearance on the 3rd rod is too loose? I know that the others are perfect but what about that one?

cibao2ner

.0018 is fine.. keep it between .0015 and .0020..

BC_Garage

Honda specs are .0008-.0015 and service at .0020. I thought that .0012 is an ideal size for rod bearing clearances.

q16racer

depends on the use and peak RPM of the engine

PyroProblem

.0012” is a little tight on the rods, and .0008” is really tight on the mains. I would not be comfy at all running those clearances. My .02

PyroProblem

Many things affect the turning tq and breakaway tq the crank. PTW clearance, ring tension, even assy lube.
I think the best way is to check after each main cap is torqued and each rod/piston installed and torqued. You should see the breakaway/turning breakaway/turning torque increase in similar increments.

BC_Garage

yeah when the 2,3,4 main cap was loosened and just pressed into place I did not have any problem with turning the crank by hand the following day so I know for a fact that the mains are too tight. So I'm going to have the mains align honed and then have it measured for correct bearings. What's the ideal size for clearances on the mains?

PyroProblem

This is what I usually shoot for too. Or towards the looser end of oem specs. So far, I havent had any oil/bearing/clearances issues using these specs. Just triple check everything. Bearing clearances are crucial to a reliable build.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Your main caps are likely facing the wrong direction.... All arrows should face the oil pump.

DDTECH

Thank you...

Some people shouldn't give advice around here.


I also agree with Mtber, check your cap arrows.

BC_Garage

All main cap arrows do face the oil pump. I think the problem is that I have main caps from a different block and need an align hone?

PyroProblem

Agreed. Machine work is needed.

EG1834

You definitely need to have it align honed at the least, align bored if the caps are really misaligned. Also, when you install the crank you must set the thrust by hitting the front and the rear of the crank with a mallet before the thrust cap is tightened down. This aligns the thrust. If you don't, you will see a very low endplay clearance and extra friction turning the crank over.

PyroProblem

Always has great advice^

BC_Garage

So when installing the crank I install the thrust washers andthen put all the main caps on but dont torque them down. Then i hit with a mallet on the flywheel side and on the oil pump side to set the thrust?

EG1834

Pretty much. I snug all of the mains down finger tight, hit the front and then hit the back, then torque everything. You want to do the back last so it sets the back of the thrust where the load is. I don't remember if Hondas have a thrust in the front side or not, so you may just be able to hit the back only.

PyroProblem

Thrust bearings on b series are on each side of main # 4 I believe.

BigBlock22

I agree with those who mentioned the main clearance being too tight and the use of mains from another engine being used without the align hone. If you didn't have the issue with the main caps, hopefully you put the rods in the right direction when they were installed onto the pistons. I personally did not hit my crank with a mallet or dead blow hammer before torquing my main caps down and my engine spins by the use of two hands (no wrench needed) just one hand on crank snout and the other on flywheel side.
btw... I AM NOT IMPLYING THAT THE THRUST WASHERS DO NOT NEED TO BE SET