allmotorRyan

I already own the skunk 2 manifold
itr pistons are good for a copley reasons there nice compression for a daily and my goals plus when je or weisco pistons are not warmed up there's blow by in the cylinder
have u read my thread at all ? I'm on a budget I don't have 700 to waiSt on pistons I don't need the compression of the itr pistons will do me just fine for my goals thanks.

negusjuda

itr piston quality is great and as far as blow by with forged piston that im not sure of plus why would you drive/race ya car when its not warmed up anyway i have forged internals in my b20vtec only because i wanted a certain compression

ballinboosi

Sure did and I guess I can read better than you can make complete a full sentence....haha You said $2500 if your going to spend the time and money you might why wouldn't you do it right. I rebuilt my head $220, all new OEM gaskets, seals, oil pump, and water pump $420 (I knew a guy in parts)(employee discount). Should be able to get the block done for about $300 (bored .20) so right there is less than a grand so plenty of room.

allmotorRyan

i still dont get how forged internals is doing it "right" im not gunna be revving the **** out of the motor so what is my need for them? i mean yes they are safer i guess but its not a racecar? its my daily and yes machine work is about a grand but did u look at the rest of my build? 440's are atleast $300 255pump $120 cam gears $180 arp hardware $240 valve springs $340 65mm tb $140 cams $300 im already 1200 into it without buying pistons? its just not fit into my budget to have forged internals when i dont need them for any reason

negusjuda

you dont need forged internals to do it right for a allmotor car. oem rods and pistons and bearings are fine, remember not many aftermarket companies can make a better product then oem honda.

2000EkCivicZC

true that.......

JmurGSR98

allmotorRyan, you can get a 68mm t.b. for $99 from mtber in the sponsor section. That'll save you $49 if you haven't already bought your 65mm t.b.

allmotorRyan

thanks for that info^ and guys i got a update now ripped my head off and its hurting so i traded it to my brother for a b16 head and ordered my pistons got a set of nippion jdm itr pistons and saw that they are domed for b16b domes so my setup has changed a bit im gunna get a skunk 2 manifold for the b16 get it port matched with the head and the tb should i run a 65mm throttle body or a 68mm ? i feel like its not gunna make much diffrence going from 65 to 68 and i should just run a 65 because its less machine work also im not geting the buddyclub cams im gunna run stock jdm itr cams for now and get a base line on my setup to see where i start and improve from there "funds are getting alittle low because of other things i found wrong with my car" but just looking for some more advice as i go along with my build thanks for anything oyu can contribute!

soloDC

Just read through this again.. 68mm TB should make you more peak HP but my setup is doing alright on a 65mm TB and im using larger cams than ITRs.. Also if you can you should def go with a full 3inch exhaust if 200whp is your ultimate goal. I myself picked up around 8whp just switching from a full 2.5 to a full 3 inch and picked up better response as well. Make sure to clean the head thouroughly while its off (thats a given as everything helps) and port out your skunk2 mani atleast if your not going to use the Performer-X manifold, which has been proven to dominate for 1.8 ltr setups, consistantly 5-10 more HP than skunk, itr (ALLM0T0R and i were just discussing this the other day). GL man!

soloDC

Also choosing a good header for your setup will help out alot too.. There is always room for debate on headers.. If something like The new Skunk2, SSR or SMSP is out of the question bc of price there a few replicas that are decent too. My Blox Tri-y atleast is actually very nice and made good power (and most ppl would be surprised bc i just said Blox, but it is quality)..

allmotorRyan

200whp is my goal but its also a dd and i dont wanna blast my ear drums out to make a extra 20hp lol also planned on having everything port matched and head will be hot tanked and 3 angle valve job and reassebled with supertech springs, i think a 65 will be fine but the 68mm is cheaper so i mite just get it now to save time later on of swapping.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Absolutely... O E M !!!!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

200whp can be easily done on 2.36" and 2.5" without blasting your ears out

allmotorRyan

i have a world sport on it rite now with a true 2.5in mid pipe so i should be fine if i lose 10hp i wont cry over it does anyone know where i could get some itr cams cant seem to find any locally...

allmotorRyan

ive come to the conclusion im not gunna make 200 yet so for now its gunna be a mild poor mans itr build lol heres my build specs as of rite now
edlbrok 65mm tb
b16 head resufaced hot tanked 3 angle vj
itr intake manifold (for now)
supertech springs and retainers
arp head studs and rod bolts
nippon jdm itr pistons .020 oversize
obd2a itr ecu
tranny rebuild kit
OBX Helical LSD
b16 1st thru 4th and ls 5th
dc 4-1 header (will sell soon to get a rmf replica)
world sport cat back
thats my build as of rite now well see what happens

kyosoeg6

iTrader: (7)

i didnt catch if you had already purchased your pistons or not. i personally would go with the b16 over an itr piston. every little bit helps when youre going all motor. dont waste your money on a type r ecu. a chipped one with a great base map can be had from "mtber" for the same price as that stock itr ecu.

allmotorRyan

the pistons i orderd re b16 domed and i traded some parts i had off a parts car for the itr ecu so no loss there just gunna use it till i can get a chipped one