4.8t

also you can rotate the dizzy back and forth slowly while some one else tries to start it. go to one side with it all the way and as someone is turning over the motor you slowly rotate it.

basstester84

The throttle I believe I tried. Are you saying pull the cable so the throttle body opens up as someone else tries to start it? I've done that. I haven't messed with the distributor because from what I know on the H22 OBD11 systems the only adjustment as far as the distributor is concerned is for idle. The timing of the engine is only adjusted mechanically. The plug wires going to the distributor I went by what is in the Haynes manual so I think I'm good on that.

basstester84

Oh and as far as the injector plugs being in the right spot I'm pretty sure they only fit one way as well. Theres like a plastic bracket that they are connected too and I'm pretty sure it only fits one way. I will however doublecheck that.

4.8t

when you move the distributer it changes over all base timing. thats why it should always be set to spec and timing changes made in the tune so that the computer timing is correct. but until you get it started thats a mute point. so just move it slowly while its being cranked over.

basstester84

I read in the Haynes manual that the only adjustment made at the distributor is idle speed, not base timing. I'm pretty sure thats how all obd 2 hondas are setup. I could be wrong tho. Can anybody else elaborate on this?

4.8t

you adjust idle speed by the screw on the throttle body. you disconnect the idle air control put in the jumper and screw the screw in and out for idle speed. the dizzy sets base timing. let me try to explain better.

i can't rmember off the top of my head but lets go with 16* btdc. you install the jumper in the passenger side by the computer and that locks the computer from being able to make timming changes. then you adjust the dizzy to 16*. onces its set you pull the jumper and now the computer makes its own changes from there.

however. say you adjust it to 18*, now everything your computer does is going to be off by 2* because it thinks base timming is at 16*. does this make any since to you?

4.8t

the computer is programed for a set base timing and it expects that, thats where base timing is at. if you change the dizzy timing it will not know and all of its adjustments will be off. that is why it is important to set the base/dizzy timing accurately. i don't kow any other way to explain it besides that moving the dizzy will effect your enitre timing algorithm.

basstester84

Yah i've heard of having to set the timing like that on other motors, but if you look earlier in my forum I've had others say the timing was only adjusted mechanically. You're the only person that has said it needs to be adjusted that way. The Haynes manual doesn't either. I guess at this point its worth a try.

4.8t

throw the damn haynes away and go get a honda pub. or look online for the the actual honda pubs. also you have mechanical cam timing thats timing for your valves. the other timing (dizzy) is for you spark. two different things. now if your timing for your cam that drives the dizzy is off then by design your sprak timing would be off do to it driving the dizzy via a mechanical link.

4.8t

http://hondatech.info/search/prelude//

basstester84

Yah I had a friend rotate the distributor while i cranked on it to see if it would make a difference but it didn't. I'll let everybody know if the import shop here in my area can figure it out and what it ends up being next week.

4.8t

does it ever make a sound like its even trying to start. like a fire cracker in a barrel with a lid on it? thats what it sounds like when timming is 180 out. just throwing that out there just incase.

basstester84

It does do that sometimes but like I said the timing marks are lined up and I tried rotating the distributor like you said, still nothing.

4.8t

its possible that you got the tooth on the dizzy backward. i know one side is bigger than the other but if a person didn't know and just bolted it down it could force itself in there. or you looked at the pic wrong and went backwords with the wires. in fact what piston are you calling number one? just asking to be sure you have it in right. not saying you don't know what your doing just trying to help. i swear every time i put mine together its backwards and i have to redo it. lmao

basstester84

I am not a professional mechanic, I am still learning so I have no problem admitting I don't know things still. If your standing at the front of the car it goes 1 2 3 4 from right to left on the valve cover and I dont have the diagram I used with me but I believe if your standing at the pass. side front of the car facing the driver side the distributor starts at 1 at the top left, 2 on the top right, 3 on the bottom left, and 4 on the bottom right. Like I said I THINK thats what the dizzy order was but I would have to doublecheck to be sure.

4.8t

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...e=Firing+Order

its 1342 starting at top left
and yes number 1 is closes to timing belt so its 4321 if your standing in front of the car

3 should be on top right 2 on bottom left 4 on bottom right so you have 2 and 3 swapped

if i remember correctly and its been a while number one should start to the left of the bumpy thing. lol mine has an external coil so one starts to the left of the coil wire and goes around from there. 1342

basstester84

I wish I could check that order out on my distributor but it is going to have to wait till tomorrow. Another thing I saw on there, for the ignition timing it said it is controlled by the iac valve. Is the iac valve the contraption thats attached to the stock air box? I have a cold air intake so I removed that thing whatever it was. It ran fine like that on my stock motor before I blew it up so I dont see that being the problem. I was just curious.

basstester84

oh and the tooth on the dizzy that you are talking about I only vaguely remember. Can you explain how its supposed to go on so I can check that too?

4.8t

the iac is on the back of the manifold.

when you take off the dixxy there is a flat drive on the back that matches a slot on the cam. one side is just a touch fatter than the other. and it should go in only one way. if it doesn't go on smoothly then its on wrong and you need to spin it 180 and put it back on.

basstester84

OK thanks for the help. I will check that stuff tomm. and let everybody know what I come up with.

4.8t

Sounds good.

basstester84

I switched the distributor wires aroud and it got rid of that firecracker in a barrel sound as you call it. And I did notice I can feel pressure in the exhaust underneath the car now...like consistent pressure, but still no start . I took the dizzy off and looked at that tooth like you said. It does only fit one way and I didn't force it in so I'm pretty sure I'm good on that, already had plans to have it towed to the shop tomm. night if i didnt get it runnin so I dont think Im gonna meet my deadline.

4.8t

after swaping the wires i would have done the move the dizzy while cracking the throttle open thing. just to get it started then make adjustments from there.

h2.4

Hello. to OP, which I don't really remember who it is through all the rambling. You need to use the jdm dist. and the jdm ecu. Then rewire the crank,tdc sensors to the usdm wire harness down by the oil pump. you can't mix them up. usdm sensors jdm ecu and vice versa. the usdm crank and tdc sensors down by the oil pump have a different tooth count then the jdm dist. and most honda dist. so you'll get tooth counts at the ecu, just wrong count and wrong timing. so no codes, but no starty. jdm ecu. jdm dist. usdm harness. wire sensors out of dist. to oil pump location. you'll be ok. no immobilizer,fuel pump, main relay yayayayyyayayaaaa.

4.8t

oh your using a jdm ecu? i thought you were using the factory one.