H22A All motor Build
#127
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Re: (shad0wslay3r)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shad0wslay3r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any new updates</TD></TR></TABLE>
#129
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Re: (shad0wslay3r)
Update:
After the car was temporarily locked away in the corner, I manage to find sometime to get the ball rolling again on the project.
Adjustments were made to the header, fuel system connected, alternator and 30w break-in engine oil.
Power, CHECK, disconnected the ECU fuse and cranked the engine until the oil pressure light had switched off.
Compression was found to be 250psi on all 4 cylinders
At the turn of the key the car roars to life and dumps a cloud of white smoke suffocating the by-standers who have been waiting for this thing to start. As expected the oil residue from the build was still present in the cylinders.
Once the smoke had cleared all eyes were on the S300 data logger and PLX M-300 wideband.
idle is now sitting at around 14.7:1 and engine is happily running
Engine break in method used will be the ImportBuilders method.
Next step is to get the AFR right for 50% throttle and go for a drive to make sure theres no leaks and if all goes well the dyno!
Its been a long road but everything has been worth the wait
Thanks for looking
Modified by Ryu at 11:40 AM 8/28/2007
After the car was temporarily locked away in the corner, I manage to find sometime to get the ball rolling again on the project.
Adjustments were made to the header, fuel system connected, alternator and 30w break-in engine oil.
Power, CHECK, disconnected the ECU fuse and cranked the engine until the oil pressure light had switched off.
Compression was found to be 250psi on all 4 cylinders
At the turn of the key the car roars to life and dumps a cloud of white smoke suffocating the by-standers who have been waiting for this thing to start. As expected the oil residue from the build was still present in the cylinders.
Once the smoke had cleared all eyes were on the S300 data logger and PLX M-300 wideband.
idle is now sitting at around 14.7:1 and engine is happily running
Engine break in method used will be the ImportBuilders method.
Next step is to get the AFR right for 50% throttle and go for a drive to make sure theres no leaks and if all goes well the dyno!
Its been a long road but everything has been worth the wait
Thanks for looking
Modified by Ryu at 11:40 AM 8/28/2007
#137
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Re: (rebo0t)
The Euro R manifold is shorter the stock manifold i think thats why...
The valve cover is only just skimming the skeleton of the CF Bonnet..
The valve cover is only just skimming the skeleton of the CF Bonnet..
#140
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Re: (Pippen_001)
Will do
Took it home for the first time tonight... did a compression test after driving to the car wash and back after it was parked for about 15 mins, compression is reading 275psi all the way through
Highway driving sucks ***** with the 4.75 FD im sitting at 3600rpm @100km/h in 5th gear but when you give it throttle you can really feel the response/torque say compared to the B18C
Took it home for the first time tonight... did a compression test after driving to the car wash and back after it was parked for about 15 mins, compression is reading 275psi all the way through
Highway driving sucks ***** with the 4.75 FD im sitting at 3600rpm @100km/h in 5th gear but when you give it throttle you can really feel the response/torque say compared to the B18C
#141
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Re: (Ryu)
Dude...sick build..def. keep us updated on dyno numbers..i like how the hood clears..i just did one in a dc2 and the factory hood cleared too..but still sick build build good job!
#144
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">car looks sic Ryu
BTW- The hood on the JDM ITR front end must sit higher or it would not allow the hood to clear the valve cover.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Clears fine on mine bro. Can post pics if you like (Non Facelift)
BTW- The hood on the JDM ITR front end must sit higher or it would not allow the hood to clear the valve cover.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Clears fine on mine bro. Can post pics if you like (Non Facelift)
#145
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Re: (nva2nd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nva2nd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Clears fine on mine bro. Can post pics if you like (Non Facelift)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ryu has the QSD kit
But you can post pics of your oil pan clearance
Clears fine on mine bro. Can post pics if you like (Non Facelift)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ryu has the QSD kit
But you can post pics of your oil pan clearance
#146
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Re: (skunked)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ryu has the QSD kit
But you can post pics of your oil pan clearance </TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh (owned) for not reading the whole thread.
Oil pan clearence - heh
Ryu has the QSD kit
But you can post pics of your oil pan clearance </TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh (owned) for not reading the whole thread.
Oil pan clearence - heh
#147
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Re: (nva2nd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nva2nd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Eh (owned) for not reading the whole thread.
Oil pan clearence - heh </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's all good
Eh (owned) for not reading the whole thread.
Oil pan clearence - heh </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's all good
#148
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Re: (Ryu)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Congrats, great build. Curious, what stage Exedy clutch are you using?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Congrats, great build. Curious, what stage Exedy clutch are you using?
#149
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Re: (LSvtecMike)
Not sure about the Stage thing, i think they develop that to give consumers a performance level rating.
Obviously EXEDY makes a standard OEM replacement, then you have Heavy Duty Organic which then moves on to the Made in Japan Sports Organic (uses 6 springs on the clutch plate compared to 4) and a higher clamping force pressure plate.
From here you have 3 puck and 5 puck ceramic button clutches, single plate, i think twin plate as well and the carbon series.
I'm using the Sports Organic due to the fact its been my preferred clutch i use on all the B series motors and I like the pedal feel as there is more feedback. I've used the 5 puck and 3 puck ceramic clutches and i must say they are a pig to drive around in the street, they also do nasty things to the gearbox esp if your doing 6000rpm launches... I'd rather blow a clutch then destroy a good gearbox
This is what it looks like in the flesh
Obviously EXEDY makes a standard OEM replacement, then you have Heavy Duty Organic which then moves on to the Made in Japan Sports Organic (uses 6 springs on the clutch plate compared to 4) and a higher clamping force pressure plate.
From here you have 3 puck and 5 puck ceramic button clutches, single plate, i think twin plate as well and the carbon series.
I'm using the Sports Organic due to the fact its been my preferred clutch i use on all the B series motors and I like the pedal feel as there is more feedback. I've used the 5 puck and 3 puck ceramic clutches and i must say they are a pig to drive around in the street, they also do nasty things to the gearbox esp if your doing 6000rpm launches... I'd rather blow a clutch then destroy a good gearbox
This is what it looks like in the flesh
#150
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Re: (skunked)
Any chance you have a part number. I thought there were only 3 types Organic, Ceramic thick and ceramic thin. You are using a B-series clutch, right?
Also how are the Hasport mounts with 88a, I am using 62a and thought about going with the 70's?
Also how are the Hasport mounts with 88a, I am using 62a and thought about going with the 70's?