randomracing

will be running Redline Time Attack Street FWD and a whole lot of HPDEs
Here is the list and now added purchases in (purchased) and changes in Bold
Integra Build

Engine:
Block: USDM GSR B18C1 (purchased)
Pistons: CTR Pistons .25overbore JDM ITR Pistons (purchased)
Rods: OEM GSR w/ ARP Rodbolts (purchased)
ITR Oil & Waterpump
ARP Headstuds
ARP Mainstuds
Rebalanced and assembled either by Whoopee Doo Racing or still looking for shops

Head: USDM GSR B18C1 (purchased)
HeadGasket: OEM 3 Layer
Cams: Skunk2 Pro 1s
Cam Gears: Skunk2 Pro Series
Valvetrain: Skunk2 Pro Series Valves w/5 angle valve job, valve springs, and titanium retainers and new OEM valve stem seals assembled by Evans Tuning.

Intake:
Manifold: Skunk2 Pro Series Manifold w/ Hondata Gasket (purchased)
Throttle Body: Skunk2 Pro Series 62mm 68mm
Intake: Custom length intake to passenger side high beam(will be cut out)

Fuel: 93 Octane
Fuel Rail: Skunk2 Fuel Rail Stock GSR
Fuel Pump: Walbro 255 InTank
Fuel Line: B&R AN line Stock
Injectors: RC Engineering 370cc

Exhaust:
Header: Some Tri-Y header. Maybe ASP or something with 2.5” collector RMF Narrow
Cat: SMSP 2.5” Hi-Flo or Gutted. 3" Cat
Cat-Back: 2.5” piping to Apexi N1 3" Piping

Drivetrain:
I have a JDM B16A and a GSR tranny
Im going to bolt on the GSR tranny at first because its assembled and the B16 isnt and see how I like it but whichever one I choose will be getting
LSD: M Factory Helical LSD
FlyWheel: Exedy 9.5lb
Clutch: ClutchMasters Stage 2
Clutch Line: B&R AN clutch line

Mounts:
Hasport Race Mounts 70a
Energy Suspension Torque Mount Inserts

Sorry for the long list but wanted to make sure everything was on there

H9Omega

What headgasket will you be running? With the GSR head and PCT pistons on 93 octane may be pushing it, looks like a very solid build.

C_Rock77

Already gave you my input...but I'll post it on here, and maybe get reviewed by others on here. Maybe you'll see that I wasn't trying to lead you astray.

My Impression:

Integra Build

Engine:
Block: USDM GSR B18C1
Pistons: CTR Pistons .25overbore BAD IDEA!-- What is people's fascination with CTR pistons in P72 head? This has been discussed over and over again. It's a BAD IDEA. THE PROBLEM IS NOT THE COMPRESSION RATIO, it's the COMPRESSION HEIGHT. Many times, the pistons HIT THE HEAD. NO BUILDER WORTH HIS SALT will tell you this is a good plan! Don't give me the argument that "So n So did it on his street car." It's NOT a good idea. Even if you don't hit the head, BIG DOMES DO NOT = BIG POWER. Not going to go into all the reasons this is a bad idea, the reasons are all over. Go with P30 or JDM ITR
Rods: OEM GSR w/ ARP Rodbolts good choice
ITR Oil & Waterpump
ARP Headstuds -- Stock will be fine unless torqued over and over again...but wouldn't be a BAD investment.
ARP Mainstuds -- Stock will be fine -- NO REASON for these
Rebalanced and assembled either by Whoopee Doo Racing or still looking for shops

Head: USDM GSR B18C1
Cams: Skunk2 Pro 1s Good choice--could even go w/ Pro2s if your builder knows what he's doing
Cam Gears: Skunk2 Pro Series
Valvetrain: Skunk2 Pro Series Valves w/5 angle valve job, valve springs, and titanium retainers and new OEM valve stem seals assembled by Evans Tuning.

Intake:
Manifold: Skunk2 Pro Series Manifold w/ Hondata Gasket
Throttle Body: Skunk2 Pro Series 62mm
Intake: Custom length intake to passenger side high beam(will be cut out) BPi Velocity stack would be a good addition

Fuel: 93 Octane -- Not a good choice if you're running 12:1+ Compression ratio -- 12:1 is your practical limit on 93. Any more, and you have to retard timing to a point that performance suffers.
Fuel Rail: Skunk2 Fuel Rail -- Stock will be fine
Fuel Pump: Walbro 255 InTank -- Stock will likely be fine -- but it's cheap insurance
Fuel Line: B&R AN line -- Stock will be fine
Injectors: RC Engineering 370cc -- good choice

Exhaust:
Header: Some Tri-Y header. Maybe ASP or something with 2.5” collector
Cat: SMSP 2.5” Hi-Flo or Gutted. A build like this WOULD benefit from 3" exhaust. I know some VERY knowledgeable builders that suggest 3" exhaust on pretty much identical builds
Cat-Back: 2.5” piping to Apexi N1

Drivetrain:
I have a JDM B16A and a GSR tranny
Im going to bolt on the GSR tranny at first because its assembled and the B16 isnt and see how I like it but whichever one I choose will be getting pretty sure this setup will like the B16 trans better
LSD: M Factory Helical LSD probably a great choice
FlyWheel: Exedy 9.5lb
Clutch: ClutchMasters Stage 2 probably a great choice -- might even be a LITTLE on the stiff side, but not too much
Clutch Line: B&R AN clutch line

Mounts:
Hasport Race Mounts 70a
Energy Suspension Torque Mount Inserts

Furyof4

C Rock pretty much covered everything.

I would ask the person building your engine for advise on the part selection. Im sure both WDR or Evans will steer you in the right direction.

dirtyharryhatch

http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html

13.08:1 is not gonna happened on 93. why did u even go with the pct pistons anyways?

iH8RICERZ

iTrader: (1)

seems like a pretty solid build....kinda similar to mine.

-b18c1 block; ctr .25 oversized pistons, arp rod bolts, head studs, oem stuff, etc

-p72 head; mild port and polish, 3 angle valve job, supertech valve train, blox b cams, skunk2 cam gears, rc310 injectors, .051" cometic headgasket, stock fuel rail, no fpr, skunk2 manifold, itr tb, comptech 3" intake arm with blox velocity stack

-Tuned with crome pro (205 whp / 133 torque)

When it was tuned on the dyno, I was using the hytech replica header, gutted jdm itr cat, and apexi ws2 catback exhaust (yes, I know its restrictive but I can't afford to get pulled over here in CA). AC and powersteering is still hooked up since I commute with this car daily! Since tuning it, I've ditched the hytech replica and am now trying out the RMF replica header...power feels smoother now.

wunfstgsr

I made 216hp and 150tq with that same setup except i used jdm itr pistons and 91 pump! ditch the ctr's valve to pistons to close and comp. is high i believe 13:1 with the gsr head you might as well port the head and use pro3's!

randomracing

Alright, so I am switching to JDM ITR pistons on GSR rods with ARP rodbolts. and according to zealautowerks compression calculator.

With p73-00 3 layer headgasket = 11.59 Compression

With p73-00 2 layer headgasket = 11.81 Compression

and im going to start looking for stock GSR fuel rail, line, and FPR

killerB16A

ARP Headstuds -- Stock will be fine unless torqued over and over again


please explain.......

Lubo_25

because they are bolts and bolts stretch...studs compress and do not exhibit symptons associated with bolts arp head studs are an investment in any build in my honest opinion the torque specs are what 5 ft/lb.'s higher with their lube??lol...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I agree. this works, though I'm still an ARP Main stud person on NA builds, since they're already out.

C_Rock77

Ok ok ok...I agree. Changed my post. Everybody happy?

In talking to DonF about a build we were working on...he stated that if he has his choice, he'd always rather run the 3-layer HG for clearance.

Honestly, i doubt the .22 points in CR are going to make much of a difference in the power you see. You could always run flat faced valves to pick that CR back up.

What was it some of you guys talked about in relation to running FF valves on one side, dished on the other. Said that the flat valves enhanced flow/cylinder filling characteristics....I read that somewhere, I know I didn't imagine it. I just don't remember which side FF, which side dished they were talking about. This was also brought up with weight being a concern, too.

atli126

iTrader: (-1)

sounds like a good build i have a similar build with buddy club III+ cams and itr valve train and retainers, i used a .073 cometic that brought the c/r down to around 11.5-1, i just installed the rmf knock off header today and feels good...

i had the car tuned (crome) on a dc 4-2-1 header with skunk2 test pipe and 2.25 tanabe medalion catback and it almost feels as tho i lost some of my low to mid oomph from the header but up top it does feel great and smooth as ever and it really helped make the tone overall deeper

i almost wonder if my exhaust is too small now? i know your not supposed to go 2.5-2.25 bc of the bottle neck effect... am i correct?

projectcivicjp

correct-amundo! that will for sure hurt your cars performance tremendously

randomracing

alright i updated the list. let me know if you have parts for sale or advice.

regdog77

How much is this build gonna cost you if you dont mind me asking?