raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

So after my block took a dump
I finally found the itr crank with one bad journal hopefully it can be fixed


I also picked up a set of eagle rods and supertech forged pistons

2 of the rods seems to have some overheating signs one is only on the bearing surface and one is a little bit blue on the bottom of the rod not dark blue or black just a slight discoloration.

So im not sure if i should use those or stick with my oem gsr rods


How many times can i press the piston pin on the oem rods?

Rocket

penny wise, pound foolish

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

buy whatever you can afford. if i could afford new i would buy new
i dont know what types of damage is fixable or ok
i tried to ask few times and searched but there aint **** here or google just bunch of topic posts that dont really go into much detail

if there was a thread that covered what type of damage is fixable and what is not that would help alot of noobs.. i made a topic covering what i know and tried to get more people involved but it seems like nobody is interested in sharing that info...

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

plus that was the only crank i found


there were 3-4 gsr cranks in much worse condition for double the price

i picked up the crank for 100 bucks which i think is not bad

and rods/pistons for 300 (pistons are brand new rods are used)

blackeg

this is why i use ls/b20 89mm cranks in all my builds. readily available and cheap.

how hard is it to mount the rods and pistons, they press fit or floating wrist pins on the pistons?

i guess you can have a machine shop check for roundness on the rods with the bolts torqued and have them hone it true if needed

Rocket

blueing = throw in da garbage can

How can you have any confidence at 10,000 rpms with the parts you have?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

lol i dont plan to have 10000 rpm with this motor

9000 maybe.. usually not more than 8500 thats where PX drops power so no need to go more

eagle rods are floating pin the oem are not

even if i would get a replacement rod. i red here on HT few people said eagle rods are not very good and get out of round but then again its honda tech so i really dont know who to trust here

because red00sir says the gsr rods are forged and no need to replace them
then someone says its not true etc.


i go to 3 different local shops and get 3 different feedbacks about same product so really im going off my best guess because after some research i usually end up with same answer as before i started.

i mean even with one bad rod i still got a damn good deal since supertech pistons sell for 450 or so

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/oil-starvation-shift-s3ctor-1-2-mile-event-b-series-turbo-car-3168544/

I hope i doesn't look like this.

I would just buy new rods. You can get refurbished OEM rods shot peened and have ARP bolts for 200 off ebay. In new condition both rods would be good for you setup but since you should buy new the OEM is gonna be cheaper.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

heres the rod end only discolored on the bottom not the top

Rocket

That doesn't look bad.

What does the crank look like

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

machinist said is ok too the cross pattern is still good .

block that I think it came from looks like it spun a main bearing the crank didn't suffer much just slight scuffing but the #3 main bearing seat was kinda scuffed to ****
I didn't buy that block and he didn't want to sell crank alone so I found one on ebay for 100 bucks hopefully the guy is not a flake

blackeg

idk about that one. i know personally in my boost motor ive been using the same 4 eagle rods since like 2008. they have to have a good 50k miles on them anywhere from 350-520ish whp and between 8700-9300rpm depending on track/condition/tire size etc.

i have replaced the rod bolts, but the rods themselves are gravy

Rocket

On 1,000+hp hot rod motors (boosted Honda. 45+psi), I've had buddies complain that the steel H-beam rods snap right below the pin-end. The solution was to go with a high quality, beefy aluminum rod.

I would not call that a short-coming, just sharing some feedback I have from people with high-hp motors.

halfakneegrow

I have two itr cranks and a Gsr crank sitting at the shop along with itr and Gsr rods... only if you lived in cali..I swear your luck had been terrible for the past two months. Well you live and you learn I wish you the best of luck with your new build and keep us updated.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

would you ship the itr crank?
I rather get undamaged one if I can if I can afford it
pm me please

motoxxxman

damaged Honda crank = garbage

that rod doesn't look bad at all, I'd say its still totally useable

90efhatch

I have an ITR crank in great shape sitting in my garage, that I am not going to use. The one in CA is closer to you but if you need one let me know.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

also anyone know how the rate the static CR on aftermarket pistons?

I belive I have these pistons from the looks of it


Bore: 81.50mm
Over Size: +0.5mm
Comp Ratio: 12.1:1
Volume CCs: 7.5
Head CCs: 42.7
Comp Height: 1.181"(30mm)
Stroke: 3.433"
Rod Length: 5.429"
Pin Diam: 21mm(.827")
Weight: 265grs
Piston P/N: P4-H815-P7
Ring P/N: GNH-8150
Note: T/N
Details:


so the 12.1 cr meaning its with unmilled head and OEM head gasket correct?

jimmysxxl

Heads Chamber volume is 42.7cc and Dome CC is 7.5 and a single Cylinders volume is 450cc

42.7-7.5=35.2cc
450/35.2=12.78

so i assume it's with stock headgasket

Rocket

Check your math.

CR = Vol. at BDC / Vol. at TDC

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

u forgot compression height. and why calculate when they list the compression rate already.
i just wasn't sure how they calculate it


well i think i found a good crank from one of the guys above.

and those pistons and rods should do better than what i have now.


expensive lesson this was. always check your oil
50 miles on the freeway with no oil and block is toast...