Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
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Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
Greetings.
I have read articles about degreeing on the Skunk2 website. But from reading forums I have read something about "locking the VTEC while degreeing" can anyone elaborate on this? Does the camshafts get degree'd in, then lock in the vtec and re-degree? I am planning to get my camshafts degreed in soon and I would like to know if I need to inform the installer/builder any special info. Thanks for everyones time.
Oh and one quick question, is "degreeing" and "dailing" in the same thing? Thanks again.
I have read articles about degreeing on the Skunk2 website. But from reading forums I have read something about "locking the VTEC while degreeing" can anyone elaborate on this? Does the camshafts get degree'd in, then lock in the vtec and re-degree? I am planning to get my camshafts degreed in soon and I would like to know if I need to inform the installer/builder any special info. Thanks for everyones time.
Oh and one quick question, is "degreeing" and "dailing" in the same thing? Thanks again.
#3
Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
honestly the best way to degree in a set of cams is on the dyno AFTER you have checked v2v and p2v clearances and created a chart of safe cam gear settings. Play with them on the dyno within this safe zone until it yields the best results.
also, 12nv has a great write up on v2v and p2v
also, 12nv has a great write up on v2v and p2v
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
Ok. Thank you. So after I check v2v and p2v, I degree based off of the VTEC lobe? Therefore locking in VTEC then degree off of the spec sheet?
My specs I have are
Intake: 270/12.8 @ 1mm/0.00 lash.
Exhaust: 276/12 @ 1mm/0.00 lash.
My specs I have are
Intake: 270/12.8 @ 1mm/0.00 lash.
Exhaust: 276/12 @ 1mm/0.00 lash.
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
thanks for all the feedback everyone. the builder im bringing my motor to mainly builds domestic motors, but he also built my cousins motor (2.0L B18C with toda b's), and to the builder a motor is a motor. I know for a fact he knows how to check P2V and V2V, I just hope he understands what i mean by he needs to "lock" the VTEC when degreeing the cams. wish me luck..
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#8
Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
thanks for all the feedback everyone. the builder im bringing my motor to mainly builds domestic motors, but he also built my cousins motor (2.0L B18C with toda b's), and to the builder a motor is a motor. I know for a fact he knows how to check P2V and V2V, I just hope he understands what i mean by he needs to "lock" the VTEC when degreeing the cams. wish me luck..
If he doesnt know how to do this or what it means, find someone else that does.......or at least print him out the 1 2 nv article on p2v and v2v
You could ship your engine to me, I'll build it for you
#9
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
He probably doesn't. What needs to happen is that the rocker responsible for activating the vtec lobe needs to be "locked" in position as though VTEC were engaged at the time of degreeing. You need to Contact Skunk2Brian for complete specifications as I recently did. It was a WORLD of help
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
anyone have videos or step by step pictures on how they locked the VTEC? I read 1 2 NV's article on the V2V and P2V article, but it lost me at step 4..
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
There are two ways that I know that you can look the vtec on. One is the belben degree kit comes with some pins that you will need to install on the rocker arm to look the vtec. The second one will be to simulate vtec engagement by injecting pressure air to the head, this is explain on the service manual. We used the second one since the first one requires more work before and after degree in the cams.
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
where would there builder inject pressure to, unbolting the rocker shaft and shooting air into it? and if its in the service manual, what manual is it in? because i believe he uses helm manuals.
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
The degree kits come with BBs. You take the shafts out of the rocker arm and place the BB in there, replace the pin, reassemble the 3 rocker arm assembly and voila, VTEC is locked.
I wish I knew more about how to lock it w/o disassembling the rocker arm assembly.
I wish I knew more about how to lock it w/o disassembling the rocker arm assembly.
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
I wish I knew as well. I found out about the Honda OEM Air stopper tool. I figure I will ask if he has one in handy, if not i will purchase one and tell him he needs to use when degreeing and the Helms manual will show how to apply the tool.
#15
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
Bb's are the best bet. When you slide out the rocker arm shafts, slide them out just enough to remove the number one cylinder rockr arms.
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
Thanks Tonio (and the guy that posted it) for that video its good to know how to do it another way. Since I will have my engine on the stand and my rockers are already out I will just switch the dowels like 00Red_SiR mentioned. I will use the method in the video after its in the car.
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
Only problem I see with that is having to pull more than just cylinder 1 rocker arms out. The BB is simpler, IMO.
You only have to pull cylinder 1 & don't have to mess with inserting more than 1 cylinder's worth of rocker arms.
Now, if you had another pin laying around...that's another story.
If you swapped the pins, wouldn't that just lock 2 of the rockers?
I guess I just like the BB method. It works. It's simple. More than 1 way to skin a cat
#24
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Re: Degreeing Question (Skunk2 Pro2)
So, do you take the pin out of another VTEC rocker and slide it in place of the shorter pin from the primary rocker?
Only problem I see with that is having to pull more than just cylinder 1 rocker arms out. The BB is simpler, IMO.
You only have to pull cylinder 1 & don't have to mess with inserting more than 1 cylinder's worth of rocker arms.
Now, if you had another pin laying around...that's another story.
If you swapped the pins, wouldn't that just lock 2 of the rockers?
I guess I just like the BB method. It works. It's simple. More than 1 way to skin a cat
Only problem I see with that is having to pull more than just cylinder 1 rocker arms out. The BB is simpler, IMO.
You only have to pull cylinder 1 & don't have to mess with inserting more than 1 cylinder's worth of rocker arms.
Now, if you had another pin laying around...that's another story.
If you swapped the pins, wouldn't that just lock 2 of the rockers?
I guess I just like the BB method. It works. It's simple. More than 1 way to skin a cat