StreetLethaleg6

I have a quick Question.

Currently my car will be used N/A for this and possibly next season due to other life priorities that wont allow me to drop money on a turbo kit nor swap a k. I am possibly planning to either turbo or Kraftwerks supercharge the motor in a year or so or even swapping in a k20 instead....life permitting.
therefore this a temporary setup for 2 race seasons at most.

(Background) Current setup:
JDM b18c w/ lsd tranny (essentially bolt ons)
skunk2 im( port-matched 70mm), skunk2 70mm tb, ebay 3" sri (reflect a gold wrapped with a blox v-stack for the track), RMF v2 rep w/ megaphone, test pipe, 2.5" full exhaust.

my question is: eventually I am gonna do a full catch can setup, especially if I go F.I..........and I only ask this because I have zero experience with this lil things lol. Is it ok to use a crankcase breather filter? as I plan to block off the lil nipple on the intake tub.

thank you in advance for the help.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

The line from the intake tube to the valve cover is there to allow fresh air into the valve cover. Under manifold vacuum, the crankcase vapors are pulled through the pcv valve into the manifold and then burned. That vapor cannot move out of the crankcase unless something can flow in from somewhere else to replace it. Also remember that, unless something in the intake tract is very restrictive, there is no vacuum in the intake tube.

You can cap it off and run a filter on the valve cover, but really it works just fine the way it is. It's also cleaner looking, IMO.

StreetLethaleg6

ok, i guess i'll just stick to the tube from intake feeding into the valve cover. thanks for your help

does anyone else have an opinion on this, curious to hear peoples thoughts. not much on this topic, I've search a lot, on honda-tech and google.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I elaborated a little while you replied apparently. Sorry for the ninja edit... I do that a lot.

StreetLethaleg6

lol its cool, i got the jist of what you were saying.

so in short, you say no breather filter and just use the vacuum hose connected into the intake tube, correct?

edit: ultimately I am gonna run a catch can but this was just a suggestion for the short term.

GhostAccord

Yes you can run a small filter replacing the tube between the valve cover and intake tube as long as you maintain the PCV valve and vacuum hose from the valve cover to the intake manifold. Maintaining a source of vacuum to the valve cover and also a fresh air feed is all you need. Also cap the opening on the intake tube...

StreetLethaleg6

hmm do you have a pic of that as an example? thank you

GhostAccord

Don't have a picture right handy......

simply put yes you can block off that nipple and instal a breather filter on the valve cover end where it was hooked up originally.

• Remove the rubber hose that goes from the intake tube to valve cover.
• Install a crankcase breather/filter on the opening of the valve cover where you removed the hose.
• Put a cap/plug on the opening on the intake tube end.

• Leave the rest of the PCV system vacuum hoses intact. specially the one that goes from the middle of the intake plenum (vacuum source) to the crankcase vent box/or PVC valve on the valve cover.

I'll see if I can find a picture and post if for you.

Tachi

Literally, the first thing I did after taking delivery of my H22 swapped CD was toss the breather filter and ran a hose from the valvecover to the intake. Especially now that its running a Prelude intake tract and breathing through a proper filter now.

GhostAccord

What constitutes a proper filter?

PyroProblem

What if there's a slashcut nipple in the intake creating a venturi effect and actually helping relieve some crankcase pressures?

GhostAccord

Slash cut devices are usually used to promote suction from air/gases passing the opening. Not quite sure how this would work installing one on the intake side. Are you talking about extracting crankcase gases into the intake tube before the throttle body????

Tachi

Something non-cone, non-K&N.

GhostAccord

Lol..... To each his own.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

If you want to do that, the place for the slash cut is in the exhaust just after the header... But not if you have a cat. Also needs a check valve so gases cannot travel the other way with exhaust pulses.

As far as one on the intake, if anything you want to promote MORE air into the crankcase from that side rather than trying to scavenge it into your intake. That's the pcv valve's job, and it is after the throttle plate for more than one reason.

Tachi

Oh I'll have a 3" metal pipe with a velocity stack and a cone filter for the dyno and dragstrip but heck no am I not driving around daily with a filter clinically proven to let in 2-3 times as much dirt as the middle-of-the-road paper elements.

PyroProblem

Exactly. Saw it on an intake tube once and didn't think much of it till now. But I guess that might draw too much oil vapor and possibly increase chances of detonation?

I just have a catch Can venting the back of the block personally but I've always wanted to find a cheap easy way to draw vacuum at higher rpms.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Stock Integra paper filters are actually very good. With a more restrictive media, cone/cylinder designs are the best way to maximize surface area. I've been running either those or Uni-filters for years. My only beef with the oiled filters is the mess they make on the intake tract.

PyroProblem

With a catchcan set up vented to the back of the block, And a slashcut (in the intake pipe) , could more circulation be had? And less crankcase pressure?

Tachi

Honda made 220hp using the same filter part number on the Euro-R and Type-S. A Prelude intake and a Wix filter will be good enough for street driving. I've yet to see a flow/filtration test comparing say, an AEM dryflow cone to a K&N cone/panel/Wix panel/ect.

todahead

In my b18c bolt ons i just copied a friends turbo b20 set up,here it goes:

I use 2 fittings from a b20 prelude to the back of the block and a freeze plug to the place that was the oem black box that i tap&drilled and intalled a nipple ,all these 3 vents went to a big catch can.
On the front of the valve cover i weld 2x -12AN fittings also i kept the oem valve cover nipple and run all 3 hoses to another catch tank.

I have capped off the intake arm nipple and the IM nipple also there is no pcv valve in my set up.

I dd this set up almost 3 years.

The catch can that has the 3 back block hoses it has never been cleaned it's always empty all these years it has collected only drops of oil.
The catch can that has the 3 valve cover hoses always get a lot of moisture/water espesialy on the winter months.


is this set up on the ''good side''?
or i need to add a pcv to help things with crankpressure ??

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

But, this bears a question or three... Do you have too much crankcase pressure? How do you know? What is too much? Why does everyone want to put a slashcut in the intake pipe so badly?

GhostAccord

Not sure. you do not want hot crankcase vapour entering the intake tube before the throttle plate. Bad enough that the plates get coated by emission systems BS on the back side. EGR/PCV.......

I would only assume that a slashcut tube would be much better suited inserted into the exhaust as they were designed! At least that would keep the intake vapour free and still keep the tree huggers happy!

PyroProblem

It's not that I have too much pressure (anymore) . My block is vented to a catchcan and works great. I am thinking along the lines of the benefits of a slight vacuum on the crankcase (help ring sealing) like they do with the slashcut in the exhaust.... but the possibility of using the intake instead...


Read somewhere on here where someone tested the crankcase pressures on a stock gsr and it was like .5~1 psi under load and at higher rpms.

PyroProblem

When I had excessive crankcase pressure (I believe) my symptoms were...
Burning a little oil.
Slightly leaking oil pan gaskets that could never stopped 100%. Oil seemed to get darker faster than it should.

Eventually got a catchcan set up. My oil pan stopped leaking. The car seemed to even "feel" better at high rpms. Oil consumption was reduced to virtually zero and stayed cleaner looking longer.
It all makes sense if you think about it. I highly recommend one on any decent performance setup.