grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

This is just me trying hard to find an alternate way of doing this without ripping off the entire head off. I've only found one post on H-T regarding this and the consensus is that it can be done but should not be because it shouldn't. Something about being lazy but the negatives about why not to do it were never really addressed.

I'm asking because no matter how many of you tell me that this should be a simple job I would like to warn you that I have not YET had a simple job when it comes to this formerly abused car. I need to get these ARPs in because I'm getting headlift under boost.

canadaek

man if the heads lifting already probly best to pull the head change the gasket then you know its all good . gasket could be bad already

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Gasket isn't bad remarkably enough. Compression tests are solid. If they weren't this question would be moot. And I'm guessing it's headlift because something is pushing coolant back into the reservoir.

hyperblu

You can, but dont expect your hg to last alot longer... once you relieve pressure anywhere on the hg, you weaken the seal.

EJeff8

Hm, you can go with slightly less quality and strength and just go with bolts and call it a day. Unless you have studs in there now. Then my point is also moot.

hyperblu

He's boosted... Can't downgrade head studs...

NotAJDMFanBoy

Pull the head and put a new gasket on. Then you can make sure the surfaces are clean and perfectly smooth.

SiRCiviC94

Bumping. Won't the head typically need resurfaced if it's pulled?

One stud at a time wouldn't relive much pressure. How'd it work out op?

dL_EG6

I didn't remove the head on my EVO when I did the head stud install.

I just torqued them to spec in a specific pattern (I can't remember). I retorqued them 500 miles later as well.

I run 28psi of peak boost for the last 30k miles and it's been fine.

I think it should be fine on a Honda motor probably pushing half the power of my EVO.

dL_EG6

I know it's kinda apples to oranges comparison since we are talking about different motors. But, I just wanted to give you an example of it working fine.

SiRCiviC94

It's in my order of business as well as a cam swap. In all over the map tho thanks!

Noob question when changing the studs. Do I order bolts too?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

do them in same sequence as normal torque sequence one by one?

probably would be best if you do end up doing it like that

with a cold engine

the cams are gonna be out anyway and so is the T belt

not much tension on the alluminum head when its cold with cams removed

it sits on a flat surface all day without getting warped i wouldnt think that it would warp it from removing one bolt

what it you replace them all one by one and torque them to OEM specs and then retorque them to ARP specs once they are all replaced?

SiRCiviC94

Personally, I'd remove one at a time in sequence. Drop
The arp bolt and hand tighten. Then do 3 or 4 intervals starting low ft lb then to arp spec.

Re checking and Tq would require another disassembly

SiRCiviC94

This needs moved to general or forced induction! Ugh

Whose done this! I'm getting R cams tonight for my build and may run them in my stock valve terrain till about 350whp with studs and a great tune

Excited

PhilStubbs

You have nothing to lose by trying it. It will take no time to swap them. If it doesn't work, then pull the head and put a new gasket in. You aren't out anything but a small amount of time if it doesn't work.

I agree with above. Do it with a cold engine and in the torque sequence that is in the manual.

Black R

What's the point of this?

To avoid buying a headgasket?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Yep 80 bucks saved lol sounds good to me

josephcmiller2

Sounds like a bad idea if you already have head lift. I'm also not convinced that doing all at the same time instead of one at a time wouldn't be better.


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DDTECH

I've heard of plenty of people doing it, another tech here has done it quite a few times, I personally dont like the "half ***" of the situation, but thats me.. I've heard of other engine builders taking the shorter route to "flat rate it" but thats another story.

If it's that big of a hassle just try it, worst comes to worst, you'll need to replace the HG, oh btw, resurface the head...anytime a honda head is pulled off, it should be resurfaced.

mickeydog

much stronger

mickeydog

opps sorry wrong answer my bad

wmac

the reason why i wouldn't do it this ways is because i 'chase' the threads with a tap before i put the studs in.
also if any oil gets down in the hole it will be hard to get it out.
i get headgaskets from the honda dealership for $46

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Oil in the bolt holes easy to remove take the squirt bottle top and pump it out

wmac

you will need a much longer squirt bottle top if you have the head on.

TheToaster

iTrader: (1)

I would find the newest model car you can get the right thickness headgasket for. IE a D16z6 HG is 100 while D16Y8 is 42 or something. Ask for parts online to be price matched in store. Make sure its an MLS gasket and the right thickness.

I would think it lifts the head away from the block a small amount when pressure is released unevenly. Usually I take all the bolts off in steps. You're takin it out all the way.

My advice is to try it if you are not terrified of doing it again and buying a HG. Its 46$ Cheaper. So I gues you could ask yourself, would you do it again to possibly save $46? If yes, do it one at a time and report back. If No to the questions then go buy a HG.