SilverEk3dr

I already have S2 Stage II cams, valve springs, Ti-retainers, cam gears. So beyond headporting, and ITB's my Head is done from what I can see.

I wanted to know if the H22 bottom end can take a beating for a while (maybe a little nitrous, but only at the track) and keep the stock C/R. Or if I should just go ahead and send it off. have it sleeved (heard nightmares about this), get some 12.5:1 Weisco's, and I saw some "pauter" rods that looked nice. Has anyone really tore into there H22's bottom end.... Or should I just leave it with stock C/R and get my money's worth out of the engine?

Past experience...companies you dont like? Thanks....

Mentat Ghola

I would save money, just hone it, type S pistons and a single layer head gasket. Good for about 11.5 CR and not expensive

laughinxxx

cast pistons, high compression, and nitrous do not make a happy three-some.

kwik93si

i'd sleeve it man, the stock h22 sleeves are very weak compared to the B series. Mine just got sleeved, wiseco 14:1 90mm pistons, crower rods, and knife-edged h23a crank. should be ready very soon!!!
good luck with your setup

nickwilmot

I would be interested in this information as well.
I have heard something about when you get the H22 bored you have to make sure the shop has the right equiment due to the H22 FRM sleeves? Also I plan on rebuilding mine with some Acl bearings, Arp headstuds, thinner headgasket (who makes them) , some sort of tuning device (hondata or Vafc) and some Type-S pistons, but I can't seem to find a topic or good description on how to make the Type-s pistons work with my 94 Vtec rods?
Also I'm rebuilding the head to be on the safe side.
C'mon all you H series builders give us some info,please.

0Mike95lude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickwilmot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would be interested in this information as well.
I have heard something about when you get the H22 bored you have to make sure the shop has the right equiment due to the H22 FRM sleeves? Also I plan on rebuilding mine with some Acl bearings, Arp headstuds, thinner headgasket (who makes them) , some sort of tuning device (hondata or Vafc) and some Type-S pistons, but I can't seem to find a topic or good description on how to make the Type-s pistons work with my 94 Vtec rods?
Also I'm rebuilding the head to be on the safe side.
C'mon all you H series builders give us some info,please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

To get the Type-S pistons to work with 94 VTEC rods you need to have the wrist pins pressed out of the stock rods. So that the rods can accept floating wrist pins. Type-S pistons use floating wrist-pins and the H22A1 does not. You also will need to have your rods rebushed.

SilverEk3dr

Alright, heres what I came up with so far:

Prelude Type S pistons & rings.
Stock rods (shot peened)
arp (or eqivelent) rod bolts.
OEM honda rod/main bearings
Thin headgasket (did look for one yet) maybe mill head slightly.
Skunk 2 valves (high compression) to = a 11.5 + C/r

My next question. Are the prelude type S pistons very strong? Do they have the "dreaded" weak ring lands?

h22dx

with a built h22, how much hp are u looking at???

goforbroke

How big is your wallet. But in the real world 220-230 at the wheels is very possible with the right parts and tuning. Thats built of course like you said.

satan_srv

umm I wouldn't go with a thinner head gasket if you have skunk2 stage 2 cams. Those things have huge lift, I would be worried with even type-s pistons.

If you are going to sleeve I would suggest ENDYN Rollerwaves for those cams. I did a sleeve and Crower Rods, 11.89:1 89mm pistons

See the deep valve reliefs?


220-230whp is HARD to get, without making some serious anti-streetable compromises like a test pipe and no balancer shaft belt, and risks like an underdrive pulley. I need to get a standalone to do more tuning, I can get to 220 pretty easily but I need an IM and header to get further

SilverEk3dr

Although I have bought most of the stuff for my head. I really feel like selling the H22 and just doing a b series, cuz this is rediculous. All this money, and shitty/weak whp? Those pistons do look nice, and if I had the drive to do it, then I would sleeve, and put forged pistons. Now I just feel like throwing the h22 into a ditch.....I had the oportunity to trade for a GSR swap, but just couldnt let it go....i guess I thought that the H22 would be a good motor to build

When everything gets here for the head. I'm gonna throw it all on, and go have my hondata tuned. If it makes weak-*** HP, or doesnt run deep into the 13's, then its gonna be up for sale quick. I want OEM mounts to hold my engine in anyway. I cant take all the vibration from these when my a/c is on

&lt;--Mark, who put a/c in silver '99 h22 hatchback, and bitches about vibration

here's a pic just for fun:



Modified by SlvrEj6Dx at 12:44 AM 8/30/2003


Modified by SlvrEj6Dx at 12:49 AM 8/30/2003

philafelman

philafelman

QUOTE=laughinxxx]cast pistons, high compression, and nitrous do not make a happy three-some. [/QUOTE]

however...me, jenna jameson, and carmen electra do!!

H25

220whp is easy to get if you know what your doing.. my street motor made that with only the intake cam adjusted.. now its at 232whp, oem pistons. oem head.. you dont need to go with aftermarket sleeves to get 220-230.. i dont suggest going single layer on the head gasket either. because my freind did one and the valves hit with type s pistons.. if you plan to adjust your cam gears stick with stock gasket with aggressive cams.. unless you have your motor built and clayed etc etc..

max-

indomotor

Please listen to Max..He's the fastest n/a street car running H22.Logic would say he knows what's he's doing

SilverEk3dr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">220whp is easy to get if you know what your doing.. my street motor made that with only the intake cam adjusted.. now its at 232whp, oem pistons. oem head.. you dont need to go with aftermarket sleeves to get 220-230.. i dont suggest going single layer on the head gasket either. because my freind did one and the valves hit with type s pistons.. if you plan to adjust your cam gears stick with stock gasket with aggressive cams.. unless you have your motor built and clayed etc etc..
max-
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please listen to Max..He's the fastest n/a street car running H22.Logic would say he knows what's he's doing </TD></TR></TABLE>

I havent doubted anyone yet.

Enlighten us please.... How is this H22 he has making nice HP #'s?

google

can anyone post a picture of a h22a with darton sleevs, closed deck. thanks

Sunrise City Rider

Don't worry about the closed deck, Run Open Deck for maximum cooling effieciency...Get is sleeved though, FRM problems with the machine shops will not be a problem anymore with new Ductile Iron Sleeves...Run the largest bore you can run...Forged Pistons and Forged Rods will allow 10k RPM with the appropriate Valvetrain...Increasing the bore will also unshroud the valves with the increase in the combustion chambers size...Your cams are awesome and with compression you will see really high gains...Expect a 30HP increase to the wheels with more compression and more fuel...Thats a whole lot but its what to expect when you have cams as aggressive as Skunk2 stage 2s...In other words, take full advantage of the mods you already have...

Remember, you make power with the Cylinder head and you keep reliablity with the bottom end...

Zee

Mover

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlvrEj6Dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I havent doubted anyone yet.

Enlighten us please.... How is this H22 he has making nice HP #'s?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good question.

preluder

how can you doubt the H-series bro they are just as good if you only know what your doing your saying all this money spent on a build. Thats with any other motor just about its reality bro this racing import game scene is anything other than cheap thats what ive learned.

Oh yeah almost forgot I hope you didnt forget that its allmotor which means further down the line you wont have to worry about your engine blowing up as with forced induction. Love it for the reliability at least you can sell it with no doubts over your head that your car isnt strong enough.

SilverEk3dr

In the end I wanna build the motor, and maybe spray on it...so I can hang with the big boys

mugensport9

why not just keep the stock bottom end and boost it? you will have some decent numbers. dont boost that much, i dont think u would need to. i think u can make some good power boosting h22s.

what do u guys think?

HotWheelz

well.. i have a built h22a and well i can say, it takes a mean B series to pull longside... mean wicked...

keep the h22a, if not let me know i can tell you my combo.. as lucky racing said, with stock 11.0 cr pistons i'm well in the 2**whp.. i'll find out soon...

despite the vibrations and hard take off (stage 3 and clutchmasters flywheel) this thing is supa fast!) i've own a GSR before and man i'm so happy i have this...

but yes the vibrations are anoying

SilverEk3dr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just keep the stock bottom end and boost it? you will have some decent numbers. dont boost that much, i dont think u would need to. i think u can make some good power boosting h22s.
what do u guys think?</TD></TR></TABLE>

**** a turbo car. I just plain hate the way they feel. Gotta wait all damn day for the turbo to spool. No thanks. I want plenty of low-end torque with all the Hp I can get.

Plus from everyone that ever built a turbo prelude they all say that the pistons suck & I could really only run like 6-7 psi. No matter what I would have to totally rebuild the bottom end. Cuz I couldnt sleep at night if I did it half-***. Also trying to tune correctly a high psi daily driven H22. Then I would have to take the A/c back out of my car (no thanks).

Allmotor is in my blood. I like the feel & reliability is very important to me.

Edit: I talked to my buddy the other day he has a ITR head with jun3's, and B20 bottom(built). I didnt get to talk much, but its a nice setup, and he said he only ran 13.7 I was like WTF? If I could get some DR & 15's I could hit that almost bone stock (only hondata). So that did make me think alot. Seems like I lauch people's asses (with B series) and in the top end they pull back up with me. Either way the H22 is gonna get built, and if I dont like the power afterwards then I will consider starting with something else.

Mark


Modified by SlvrEj6Dx at 1:38 AM 9/6/2003

2.2SICKLUDE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HotWheelz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well.. i have a built h22a and well i can say, it takes a mean B series to pull longside... mean wicked...

keep the h22a, if not let me know i can tell you my combo.. as lucky racing said, with stock 11.0 cr pistons i'm well in the 2**whp.. i'll find out soon...

despite the vibrations and hard take off (stage 3 and clutchmasters flywheel) this thing is supa fast!) i've own a GSR before and man i'm so happy i have this...

but yes the vibrations are anoying </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, can you spill a little of your combo on your h22. Right now I have an h22 and the power is shitty?