Agustine Reyes

So I got a stock b18c1 with a skunk 2 intake manifold, aem intake. I want to do a n/a dd build to reach 250-300whp. I’m going to get some mild head work,valve job,and hot tanking on my gsr head. Need some advice on parts I need to reach somewhere within my goal. So here is my current head build plan:

Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
Skunk2 titanium retainers n valve springs
Skunk2 Alpa Headers
Arp headstuds
A tune(any recommendations on programs?)
Chipped Ecu(don’t know which one to get or should I just get the one I have currently chipped??)
Should I upgrade valves n valve guides???

Hows my plan so far? Also this is going on a stock b18c1 bottom block. Lmk any recommendations or any advice u have for me. Thanks.

DumpdEJ6

There's no way you're getting even 250whp without high compression pistons, and I didn't see any piston or rod selections in your list. I'd recommend Neptune or Hondata, although you can also use Crome as a lower cost tuning solution. I personally have a Crome chipped ecu and it has worked fine for my LS/VTEC build for the last few years, but I will be upgrading to Hondata soon to take advantage of e85 flex fuel sensor.

Bottom line is I think you may have unrealistic expectations from the motor. You're going to have to be in the realm of 13:1 compression with big cams and ported head to get 250whp.

Agustine Reyes

Ok. Thanks. So what u think is a realistic whp goal if I don’t updgrade the pistons? Should I leave the head Ported n valve job with stock internals n build the block?

hondaracing84

iTrader: (1)

If you want to hit 250-300whp, you'll need to be at least at 2.0L. So 84mm pistons, high compression. Big cams like the skunk2 Pro3s.
But there is no way you'll get close to 250 on stock internals. You might hit 200 or a little over.
As far as engine management, chipping can help, but to get the most power out of your setup, you should go hondata s300 and get a proper tune.
Let me give a break down of my B series n/a build that got me 260whp and that will give you an idea of what it takes to get at least there.
GSR Block sleeved and bored to 86mm
13.5:1 compression 86mm pistons
LS 89mm stroke crank and rods all balanced
Right around 2.1L on displacement
Port and bowl work on the head.
High compression valves w/ gsr head brought compression to around 14:1
Kelford all motor C cams, not their biggest but pretty big, probably a little smaller than the Pro3s. w/adjustable cam gears
supertech 85lbs springs w/titanium retainers
Skunk2 ultra race 5.5L manifold, w/90mm throttlebody and 4" intake
Hondata s300
Fuel: First it was tuned on VP c16 and made 252. Then we switched to VP c45 and made right around 260.
The next season I switched to way bigger cams, 14.2mm lift and crazy high duration and we switched to methanol m5. We made just a little over 270 with those.
With a better ignition setup we probably would have gotten closer to 300, but there wasn't enough spark duration to burn all the fuel. And if we switched to FTW black we probably would have been over 300.

So as you can see, 250-300whp out of a B series is not an easy task. Lots of parts, expensive fuel and good tuning. If you want to stick with a very streetable motor and stock internals, you're looking closer to 200whp which is very possible. You'll still need good cams and that head work will help too. get a good tune and dial it all in on the dyno.

Chance EG

Reinforcing what others are saying, without going to a stroker type setup the most WHP you could hope for out of a street oriented B series would be about 230-240WHP. That's assuming the use of 93 octane and 12.5:1 pistons, S3 cams, full bolt ons, ported head....

250+ would require either a 92mm+ crank, aggressive sleeving/overbore, and/or an aggressive compression ratio that would require either E85 or race fuel.

270+, as stated above, and you're talking a full race spec B engine that wouldn't be suitable for daily driving. Large stroked crank, huge compression, etc.

vtecmaster85

not exactly true. there's 270 whp n/a b series out there that are streetable. a friend of mine made a bit over 240 on a 82mm ls vtec with itr pistons.

Chance EG

I think we're splitting hairs at that point as to what defines "streetable", and also just dyno differences.

vtecmaster85

Just dont get why it wouldnt be suitable to drive daily. or the aggressive sleeving part.

Chance EG

Even with ductile iron sleeves, a bore of 86mm+ on a B series engine is not recommended for engines that aren't strictly used for racing. The walls oval out quicker due to how thin they are. This is per Darton's recommendation.

Rod/main bearing wear becomes a factor when dealing with stroked crankshafts. There's a tradeoff for bearing longevity/crank lift. I'm not sure what the exact limit is, but a 92mm crank could likely still be used for daily driving if properly assembled. A 95 or 97mm crank most likely would not have longevity that is desirable for a street engine.

hondaracing84

iTrader: (1)

To add to what the guy above me said to this quote, I know from personal experience you wear parts out quicker. On my race engine we did new bearings each season. And thats race only. So daily will probably wear out quicker. Granted we had the HX bearings but its not going to wear out much quicker than standard oil clearance. And now for the big problem we had. There is a life span to valve springs and they get greatly reduced with high lift cams. My motor only being ran at the races wore out the springs quick. Last race of the season while loading it on the trailer all the springs broke. So you'd have to change those out every so often. And like I said, that was track only. Imagine if we daily'd that car. The springs lasted 2 seasons. They wouldn't have lasted a year street driven.

​​​​​​​You want 250-300 daily driven, go K series or J series. We went J because it was cheaper and made way more power on a stock engine. Junk yard 500 dollar engine took me to 11.3. 4 thenths faster than a full race B series. Made 320whp on c45 and 310 on 91 pump. Plus only maintenance we have to do is an oil change.

Chance EG

If OP is dead set on achieving the power outputs he mentioned, I'd recommend the following:

H2B (would require removal of AC unless you're in an EK chassis)
K24A2 (The K24A2 head flows just as good as K20 heads, so no need for a frankenstein build. The 06-08 TSX cams are also the most aggressive OEM K cams, even moreso than the K20A Type-R)
Turbo kit for your B series

Obviously a lot of variance there, but if you're determined for the mentioned power that's what I'd start working towards. Otherwise, an all motor B series even just putting out 230->240WHP in a street car can still run low to mid 12 second quarter miles all day.

Turbo kit would be easiest/cheapest. As a side note, don't forget the importance of pairing a good transmission with the engine. GSR trans would be great for boost. B16 or even better a 4.7 ITR transmission would be great for all motor whippings. PNN4 06+ Civic Si trans for K series.