Teamdiesel

Hey guys, I just bought a brand new ATI Street Damper but it didn't come with any instructions and I don't want to install without advice. The hub and the damper came separate of each other with three 12 point bolts and washers also. What are their torque specs and how do I torque the damper on my crank as there is no hexagon shape to use my crank pulley device? Also the damper seems to be a extra tight fit going on the crank nose unlike the OEM which slides right on...Is there something else to do there that needs to let it slide freely?
Thanks in advance.

Teamdiesel

BUMP! WTF no one has ever installed one of these?

kyden

http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...structions.htm

Teamdiesel

thanks! That answers most of my questions but still does not say how I am suppose to torque down the factory crank bolt when there is no hex in the damper for my tool to lock into.

4g hatch

easy,if its in the car just take the dust plate cover for the flywheel off and have someone wedge a long prybar in the flywheel teeth,while you torque. its always worked good for me

welfarepc

or put the car into gear, and have someone step on the brakes. or if you are alone, stick a screw driver in each rotor so it butts up against the caliper and do work.

mikesrex

this

Teamdiesel

These are all good ideas, but I guarantee these are not the way ATI thought up when the designed their dampers.

OMG THE GOGGLES

iTrader: (7)

Kind of a crazy and far out idea, but, how about calling them?

lol

Natural Aspirations

Mine came assembled and I have never had it apart. The design on the hub is supposed to be quite tight, press fit design. I just pull it on with the OEM bolt and use a 3 bolt harmonic balancer puller to remove it.

WORD OF ADVISE:

Check the timing marks and you may possibly need to modify them. Just put it on top of your OEM pulley and align everything up.

Natural Aspirations

Mine came assembled and I have never had it apart. The design on the hub is supposed to be quite tight, press fit design. I just pull it on with the OEM bolt and use a 3 bolt harmonic balancer puller to remove it.

WORD OF ADVISE:

Check the timing marks and you may possibly need to modify them. Just put it on top of your OEM pulley and align everything up.

FIST321

an i bet that damper u just bought is exacty the same an one for a 350 other then the center hub.

Tim2179

iTrader: (2)

Same as a SBC 350? No, they're different, but the assembly is similar.

OP, you probably got it on already but here:

A damper puller/installer tool is recommended:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-918999/?rtype=10

You can rent one from a parts store for less though.

Teamdiesel

I actually just lined it up, screwed in the crank bolt and let the washer on the bolt pull it onto the crank noise when i tightened it.

Natural Aspirations

Are the timing marks correct on your ATI?

Teamdiesel

Perfectly on target .

Natural Aspirations

Hmmm.... mine were quite a bit off. I had to remove it and make my own marks. Maybe they improved the design.

gstrudler

Pretty sure when I was lurking around on ATI's site that they are supposed to be press fit onto the crank, as mentioned. I know they re-designed the h22 damper, not sure what the OP put on.

BigBlock22

i was going to buy one myself but figured the Euro-R single belt would do. but also plan to have that balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly. how much better could the ATI be? i heard its the best on the market, just rather expensive

Natural Aspirations

Its not a balancer, its a harmonic damper.

Teamdiesel

I have the product # 918476
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...s/damhonda.htm

BigBlock22

I don't believe there was a single person in this thread that said it was a balancer. Thought I should bring that to your attention.

Natural Aspirations

Why were you just asking how much better it could make a balanced engine.

Harmonics and balancing are 2 different animals all together.

NAH2B

yes its a press fit, you can run it on by had using the bolt/washer

i always use a 1/2" impact to tighten crank bolts

the ati is far superior to anything else in terms of dampening harmonics, i would like one myself but they were still working the bugs out of their h series race damper last time i spoke to them.

i have tried a fluidampr in the past and they suck due to the aluminum hub wearing and destroying the keyway. plus they use a viscus fluid that is known to go bad over time over time


ati is definately the way to go, its the only one they allow in NASCAR

BigBlock22

I do know the difference between the two. And I am not trying to debate the matter. My concern is, will it absorb harmonic vibration ten fold over the jdm f20b pulley . I'm sure the ATI will out last the F20B pulley but is it really necessary for a daily driver? My impression of harmonics would be, a well balanced rotating assembly will have less of a harmonic frequency signature than a regular engine. So I figured if my bottom end does not produce a great deal of harmonic vibration then maybe it would not be completely necessary to buy such an expensive damper. Possible overkill? I do not know, I see it as more insurance. Which is not a bad thing. Perhaps the f20b pulley will be suitable for a daily driver engine like mine? So I ask of anybody, do you think its worth the extra $250-$300. I really cannot decide at this moment.