namewasdallas

im trying to make more power out of my b16 im on a real tight budget i got like 1500 dollars to possibly spend, i already have a 4-1 header , pulleys, exhuast 2.25 , obx high flow cat looks like its falling apart and aem short ram,

Now with 1500 dollars whats the best cam and valve train set up i should go with, keep in mind price and drive ability i just want like 15-30hp tuned extra, possibly skunk2 cams and valve train and a hondata? give me some info on a set up for what i have,

1998 civic ex, b16a2, 4-1 header, 2.25 exhuast, high flow cat, aem short ram , micro V pulleys.

h22crxpwr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by namewasdallas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im trying to make more power out of my b16 im on a real tight budget i got like 1500 dollars to possibly spend, i already have a 4-1 header , pulleys, exhuast 2.25 , obx high flow cat looks like its falling apart and aem short ram,

Now with 1500 dollars whats the best cam and valve train set up i should go with, keep in mind price and drive ability i just want like 15-30hp tuned extra, possibly skunk2 cams and valve train and a hondata? give me some info on a set up for what i have,

1998 civic ex, b16a2, 4-1 header, 2.25 exhuast, high flow cat, aem short ram , micro V pulleys.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Go with Blox cams. they are cheap and they make great power. there was a HT sponsor on here selling them for like 350 shipped!!

definitely cams and valvetrain will give you a big boost in Hp.

all-mtr-teg

Here's a really inexpensive suggestion
Blox B's = about $250-350
Supertech valvesprings, = $160
SMSP 2.5" high flow cat = $100-150
Ebay CAI = $50
Tune $200-300

Guestimate = $850-1000

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Ditch your current exhaust and get kteller 2.5" exhaust, no cat. Or you could do like I did and get 3" exhaust.

Get some Blox A's cams
Get a BPI stack
Go back to the stock pulley

Get a good tune

You'll be at about ~160 whp and 109 ft-lb

Here's my old dyno thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2000323
It trapped at 96 mph on street tires @2400 lbs with me in it.


Modified by mar778c at 6:26 PM 3/18/2008

FowDow

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a really inexpensive suggestion
Blox B's = about $250-350
Supertech valvesprings, = $160
SMSP 2.5" high flow cat = $100-150
Ebay CAI = $50
Tune $200-300

Guestimate = $850-1000
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What would be the average times you would get with that set up??

all-mtr-teg

Too many variables to consider
Driver
Tires
Road conditions
Car
Tune
Build
etc, etc.

FowDow

iTrader: (1)

Im sorry i meant to say whp , i have B16 with ctr pistons just rebuilt.. And how high would you be able to rev? I wouldnt need to upgrade my retainers?

b18c5 EG

my b16 made good power with...

buddy club spec 3 cams
buddy club cam gears
omni valve springs
omni retainers

then tune it should be around or cheaper then 1500 all together...buddy club has really good midrange for around town driving

b18_spoon

My setup:
94 JDM B16A (Completely stock block)
No Head porting or valve cuts(STOCK Casting and Valves)
Stock injectors, pump, and fuel rail
Blox B cams
Evolution Titan. Retainers
Buddy Club Dual Valvesprings
Skunk2 Pro Manifold
Hondata intake manifold gasket/heatshield
AEM Tru-Time Cam Gears
HighEnd Mike 4-1 Header
OmniPower Test Pipe
Apexi GT Spec 60mm Exhaust
3" Fujita Short Ram (For TypeR)
65mm Throttle Body

Tuned By Chris Whitfield@Whitfield Racing
Dynoed in at 178hp & 117ft.lbs to the wheels
on a dynojet dyno way above sea level.

It took me a long time to get it all together
but I only spent maybe 1500 to 1700 bucks
by finding good deals in the classifieds and some
good hookups. I don't see why you can't do the same.
Good luck with your project!!

JSEF9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18_spoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My setup:
94 JDM B16A (Completely stock block)
No Head porting or valve cuts(STOCK Casting and Valves)
Stock injectors, pump, and fuel rail
Blox B cams
Evolution Titan. Retainers
Buddy Club Dual Valvesprings
Skunk2 Pro Manifold
Hondata intake manifold gasket/heatshield
AEM Tru-Time Cam Gears
HighEnd Mike 4-1 Header
OmniPower Test Pipe
Apexi GT Spec 60mm Exhaust
3" Fujita Short Ram (For TypeR)
65mm Throttle Body

Tuned By Chris Whitfield@Whitfield Racing
Dynoed in at 178hp & 117ft.lbs to the wheels
on a dynojet dyno way above sea level.

It took me a long time to get it all together
but I only spent maybe 1500 to 1700 bucks
by finding good deals in the classifieds and some
good hookups. I don't see why you can't do the same.
Good luck with your project!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you go on the track with this setup?

b18_spoon

No. I'm not really a Drag Racing person and I just got it tuned about 2 weeks ago so I really haven't had the chance to do any timing with it. Plus the motor is in a 97 ex coupe(or tank). So I really don't know how it would do in the 1/4 mile. It pulls rediculously hard though. I'm gonna retune at sea level though cuz I think I may have more in it. Maye I'll save more and get me some Pro1's first. I don't know. Have you seen any qtr mile times with cars like mine?

0VtecKiDD

with $1500 id personally buy:

4.78 FD and ITR LSD-$500
Skunk2 stage 1s or ITR cams $350-400
Hytech Replica Header $300-350
Crome ECU and tune

this assumes you do all the work yourself. be nice to have a quick trans, LSD and pick up 10-15whp

b18_spoon

Anyone else wanna help the dude?

ipodhustle

buy a b20 block
build it yourself to save on labor
sell your current header and get a header that will fit
get an ecu program from phearable.net or something

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

i would get-

mfactory 4.7FD-500
obx LSD-$400
tri-y- header$350
ITR CAMS- 300

and tune

AllMTRWH0R3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ipodhustle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy a b20 block
build it yourself to save on labor
sell your current header and get a header that will fit
get an ecu program from phearable.net or something

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking the same.

ipodhustle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMTRWH0R3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was thinking the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's why we both went K

b18_spoon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMTRWH0R3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was thinking the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is really bad advice. If this guy is asking for this type of info it's because he's not an engine builder. I think maybe an LS block with Pr3's and built by RS, Prostreet, Golden eagle, or someone reputable like that would be a better choice.
An LS block can be done for less than $1200 then get an ecu with CROME and bam! Tune the thing. It might put you a tad over $1500 but if you go with the b20 then the cheapest pistons that would make you any good power would be the RS ITR 84mm ones but they're still like $300+ bucks and the LS PR3's are like $150. I know it's not much difference but if he could do the block swap himself he'll be alot closer to his budget with tuning. Oh sh*t I forgot the LSVtec conv. kit! Oh well.
Any hoo, I don't think he should build his own block.

PS. If he did decide to save alittle more the b20 would stomp the crap out of my motor and I spent about $1700(roughly)

AllMTRWH0R3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18_spoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is really bad advice. If this guy is asking for this type of info it's because he's not an engine builder. I think maybe an LS block with Pr3's and built by RS, Prostreet, Golden eagle, or someone reputable like that would be a better choice.
An LS block can be done for less than $1200 then get an ecu with CROME and bam! Tune the thing. It might put you a tad over $1500 but if you go with the b20 then the cheapest pistons that would make you any good power would be the RS ITR 84mm ones but they're still like $300+ bucks and the LS PR3's are like $150. I know it's not much difference but if he could do the block swap himself he'll be alot closer to his budget with tuning. Oh sh*t I forgot the LSVtec conv. kit! Oh well.
Any hoo, I don't think he should build his own block.

PS. If he did decide to save alittle more the b20 would stomp the crap out of my motor and I spent about $1700(roughly)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see your point of view and granted it was not the best advice, but I assumed the originator of this thread would take it upon himself and study up on what works and what does not. Also he has a few items on his current motor he could take out and sell ( this is my personal opinion, it's overkill to have some of your parts).

My buddies b16 with a SMS replica header, hondata, skunk2 cams ( springs, retainers, cam gears) That's it ( manifold was stock and it had a 4.7) made 184 whp and 111 pounds of torque. This setup was a fun setup

Reason I go back to ipodhustle recommendation is that My lil brother had just a b20 and with just a b20 (which cost about 500 bucks give or take a few hundred) he previously had a lsvtec was in the same situation as the original poster and went the route of the b20. My other friend went with doing head-work on his b16. When they would mess around it was identical race between both cars ( cars weighed exactly the same)

You can do what you like but I am giving you my experience with both setups and what each person felt was best for them. Have fun and good luck on your build

b18_spoon

Yup. I def. see what you mean. That's kinda why I'm not sure (if I did it again) if I'd go b20. b20 are so cheap and make good power with minor mods. But man it's fun revving the crap out of my car. And I do it all the time. No worries. I can see your point though. Plus with b20 there's room to go further. You really think some of my parts are a bit much? Chris Whitfield mentioned to me that I had one of the shops strongest NA b16's he's had there,and his shop is at a pretty high altitude. Supposedly If I'd baseline the car at sea level I'd be in the high 180's like your buddy. I think most of the parts are pretty dead on though.

98vtec

what research have you done?

.I.Need.Money.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18_spoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But man it's fun revving the crap out of my car. And I do it all the time. No worries. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty fun making lot's of noise and not going anywhere...

UncleD

iTrader: (2)

My prices might be off because I haven't priced in so long, but whatever...I'm drunk.

-conversion harness: $100
-P28(whatever) ecu $150
-S200/Crome $200
-S2S1/Blox A cams $300
-Portflow inners $150
-MF 4.9 FD $5~ish
-tune.

Your welcome.

b18_spoon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .I.Need.Money. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pretty fun making lot's of noise and not going anywhere...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow. Bored huh. Why don't you go hate somewhere else big guy.


Modified by b18_spoon at 8:46 AM 3/20/2008

b18_spoon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what research have you done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well... to be honest, with the S2 Pro mani and bloxB's I really went out on a limb.
I knew for a fact that I was gonna have to turn the the motor more rpm to get a similar piston speed to an ls at around 8 to 8500 rpm. Thats where alot of these engine builders on this site have been making great #'s with lsvtec's. I know I'm prolly way off on theory but the parts were cheap so I ran with it. I got the mani that frequently showed more of a peaky gain on they dyno sheets that people posted up on this site, and the cams were extremely close in sizing to the s2s2's which everyone knows make great power up top. So why not. The motors not huge. Extremely small in fact so I got a hold of b19coupe and he had suggested the 65mm throttle body. The headers seemed quite large at first but on my dyno chart the torque was flat as door until vtec engaged and it got a huge bump all the way to the end. The whp curve was even more impressive. It never tapered off. The more rpm we went the more power it made(although not that much it was impressive). I figured this thing wasn't gonna be a torque monster so why not go with stuff that makes great top end?. I don't know... I think it turned out great.
And all the parts were pretty cheap.